triple entry in period from 27.01 to 18.02.07, a total of 9 days,
currency rate 1 € = 650 F (CFA, Western African Frank)
highlights –
border between Mauritania and Senegal is closed between noon and 3pm. River ferry runs there free of charge for passengers, so do not let them to cheat you. After crossing the Senegal River you has entered into the appropriate Black Africa. Immediately appear all the changes. The first one is the people - no Arabs, almost all "Black". The second change is the landscape - the lack of desert, start to be green. In local language "Senegal" means "baobab land" and sometimes in the region there are dozens of these, covering the entire field. A tree which looks like was planted with the roots up side down, is incredible, huge.
Saint Louis is a pleasant , musical, interesting architecturally town. Dakar is opposite, with the exception of the nearby island of Isla de Gore. You can find there peace and learn some history, but unfortunately related to slaves trade. After leaving the ferry oo the island go and mix with some tourist group, because otherwise you will be charged another admission. To the "slaves house" (La Maison des Esclaves) is best time to go during guide speach (in French) to get some more interesting facts about the place. You can enter there from the ocean side (and miss another admission fee) through forever open gate, which slaves past for the last time. There is worth to twist on the island, climb the cliff which is resident place by artists, you can also meet nocommercial musical group. Admission to the island, to slave house, and to the IFAN museum - everywhere charge 500 CFA.
I could not miss the West Cape of African mainland. I like the geographical points. Unfortunately, Cape Verde (Pointe des Almadies) is on private property in the Meridien President Hotel, where non guests are not allowed to enter at late evening. We had to walk around the site and entering from the beach side with some bribes for guards.
We slept in Yoff, the fishing village, much better then the center of Dakar. I strongly recommend to walk before sunset around the colored fish market on the beach. Another interesting place is Lac de Rose, a lake where is a finish of Paris - Dakar race. It has a pink color and a lot of salt which practically means that you can lie without ability to swim - displacement will not allow you to drown. I felt like bath in jelly. We spent the night at the nearby dunes and that would be great if we had mosquito net - insects, despite the use of repelents, bit us mercilessly.
Between visiting The Gambia and Guinea Bissau we had to once again enter Senegal, or rather to a region called Casamanca, which is fighting for its independence. Despite the warning it was safe, we have seen a lot of military troops. Another time after the civil war in Guinea we entered Senegal for third time, and this time it was an unplanned.
Unfortunately, in sum of importunity and dishonesty of locals sellers, merchants and hotel owners, Senegal has remained the least liked country in the whole our route.
town | site | price in F | €/ pp | duration | note | comments |
Dakar | Isla de Gore, admission fee on the island | 500 F | €0.8 | 3 h | ok | |
Isla de Gore, slaves house | 500 F | €0.8 | 1 h | ok | ||
Isla de Gore, IFAN museum | - | - | 30' | no good | admission 500 F, but they had no change | |
Cape Verde | 1000 F | €1.5 | 20' | ok | guards bribe | |
€3.1 |
accommodation – hostels in capital are expensive (20 € per room), so the first night we were looking for shelter in the residential construction site in Yoff. We didn't know that the houses during the construction are already inhabited, as we found out when we were prepared for sleep. In the beginning locals weren't happy to be awake after midnight, they came with machetes. After clarification they called the security boss who invited us to his flat (still under construction) with doors and floor. Another night we spent in the hostel in Yoff (village near Dakar), but prices are still shocking and we paid after negotiation from our security host.
town | hotel and address | N | accommodation | price per night | €/ pp | note | comments |
St. Louis | Cafe des Arts, LP | 1 | 3 persons room | 10500*F/ room | €5.4 | 6 | sheets, mosquito net, wc, fan, kitchen |
Yoff | 100 m from the sea, orange building |
2 | 3 persons in double room | 14000*F/ room | €7.2 | 7 | wc, sheets |
Kaolack | Catholic Mission, LP | 1 | dormitory | 2000 F/ per | €3.1 | 4 | |
Ziguinchor | Auberge Casafrique, LP | 1 | outside, in garden |
2000 F/ 3 per | €1.0 | 4 | no vacancies, under mosquito net |
in wild | 1 | sleeping bag | |||||
hospitality | 2 | construction site, village | |||||
in transport | 1 | train | |||||
9 | €23.9(5) |
transport – after crossing the Senegal River you should hurry up on "Gare Routiere" (bus station), in our case the first minibus filled up and departed, we had to wait the next 5 hours for the border reopening for more passengers.
To the Isla de Gore ferry departs every hour from 6 am to 11 pm (less on Sundays), you can return by ferry at any time. This ferry is so expensive.
In Dakar urban area the best transport are buses, buy a ticket inside for just 100 to 200 CFA. Taxis are more expensive, from 1000 - 1500 CFA.
If you would like to stay in this pleasant village Yoff catch bus No 8 (get off a kilometer before the airport).
To get to the Cape Verde take the same bus number 8 to the end, that is get off at the airport. Thus, catch nearby minibus, the driver will tell you where to get off and walk 30 minutes .
Get to the Lac de Rose first take bus no 11 to the end, there change for for another to Keur Massar, and there catch minibus to Niaga Peul. Here buy some food if you plan to stay there for longer and walk, there is still 5 km to the lake. Dunes will be on the left, lake on the right.
The real pain in Senegal was unpleasant bargain for the costs of the journey. As a acceptable tariff we even managed quickly, the problem however was there to accept the negotiations for the baggage. Typically they request 1000 CFA per piece - which often ended with quarrel and fight to get 500 CFA for three people. It is easier to determine the tariff straight away including backpacks. Do not forget to pay with some witnesses, preferably to a person who has already charged other passengers and ask for a receipt - usually a piece of paper - however, that is always something to help you to avoid additional problems.
The cheapest are buses, later larger and smaller minibuses, after personal cars Peugeot or old Mercedes, called here "7-place" (7 people inside). Traditionally they leave when full, that is larger vehicle can take longer to fill up - but it should be cheaper.
Train Dakar - Bamako stops in many places - we get in Tambacounda in the evening (Wednesday and Saturday) running away from the civil war in Guinea. It runs twice a week, there were no problem with ticket purchase. Seating places we found, but you must fight for it (canductor helped). Border formalities are carried out without stopping the train.
day | destination | transport | price in F | €/ pp | duration | km |
16 | Mauritania border - St. Louis | minibus | 5000 F/ 3 persons | €2.6 | 2 h | 95 |
17 | St. Louis - Dakar | minibus | 2800*F/ per | €4.3 | 5,5 h | 266 |
19 | Dakar - Isla de Gore + return | ferry | 5000 F/ per | €7.7 | 15' x2 | 4 x2 |
20 | Dakar - Nigue - Lac de Rose | bus nr 11 + minibus + walk |
100 F + 100 F | €0.3 | 30'+20'+ 30' | 20 + 10 + 3 |
21 | Lac de Rose - Kaolack | walk + 4x minibus | 2150 F | €3.3 | 3,5 h | 190 |
22 | Kaolack - Karang (Gambia border) | minibus | 1500*F/ per | €2.3 | 2 h | 80 |
data in Gambia | ||||||
25 | Gambia border - Ziguinchor | 2x minibus | 2500*F+500*F/bag 3per | €4.1 | 4 h | 149 |
26 | Ziguinchor - Bissau | minibus + ferry | 3500 F/ per 1000* F/ bag3per + 200 F ferry | €6.2 | 4 h | 20 (Senegal) 125(Bissau) |
data in Guinea Bissau and Guinea | ||||||
36 | Guinea border - Linkiring | data in Guinea | 45 | |||
37 | Linkiring - Medina | taxi | 7000*F/ 3 persons | €3.6 | 30' | 25 |
37 | Medina- junction - Tambacounda | 2x 7-place | 2500 F/3per+4000 F/3 per | €10.0 | 30'+ 1h30' | 25 + 53 |
37-39 | Tambacounda - Bamako (Mali) | night train | 15000 F/ per | €23.1 | 31 h | 180+ 510(Mali) |
city transport | taxi | 6800/ 3 persons | €3.5 | - | - | |
€71 | 1169 |
visa - we got our visa at the French Consulate in Warsaw, but more EU nationalities don't need a visa at all.
Senegal also has an embassies in Morocco, Mauritania, Gambia, Guinea, Guinea Bissau, Mali, Togo and Ivory Coast.