6.02 to 12.02.07, 6 days, currency rate 1 € = 650 F (CFA, Western African Frank)

highlights – there are slightly different, because that is the only Portuguese colony in the area. Except the former colonial buildings you can see a very large, local cottages. They are much higher than in neighbouring countries, some look like circus arena. Transfer from Casamance to Bissau abounded in some police check points with baggage control, very specific for locals.

In the capital Bissau there wasn't anything special, while all taxis, white and blue Mercedes, looks clean and new. We had a lot of luck in the harbour, because at first day we caught the fishing boat going to Bubaque Island on the Dos Bijagos Archipelago.

There we found the oasis of peace. We spent days carelessly, taking sunbaths, resting on the sand, making small trips to nearby villages. In the surroundings villages people were nice, clean beaches and funny groups of kids. However, during the sea bath something attacked me in the muddy water. I saw only the black tail, pain in the toe and my blood. I have jumped to the shore still didn't know what was it, but I was aware if that was the sea snake I wouldn't live long, there was no hospital. The locals came and calmed me down - most likely that was sting ray, which was resting on the sandy sea bed. Blacks sucked my blood from a cut toe and prepared the medicine from the bark, giving me rest from mental and physical pain. Here sting ray bites is a norm! Just in the water you should walk firmly, making vibrations so the fish has a time to escape, otherwise walking gently you can surprised it and be bite in resulting of self-defence - use a tail with the spike. After this event I had forbidden sea bathing (local recommendation) for the next 2 days. I was also for a few days partly deprived of mobile functions - walking on swollen foot and manual hand using (including writing), after the recent accident with my thumb in the taxi door.

We organized the trip to nearby islands. We wanted visit Orange Island to see saltwater hippos, and as well on Joao Vieira Island because marine turtles - financial and time barrier was too high. Instead we decided for one day trip. On the main street of Babaque we found Eduardo, a young writer and artist, speaking in addition to Portuguese, German and English. He arranged for us boat and fishing equipment. We sailed to the nearby Ruban and Roxa Island, fishing on the way and a moment later we grilled the fish on provisional beach barbecue under the palms. During hiking we found interesting villages, playing with laughing children. Eduardo lost a way once, but this added the attractions. However what surprise us, when the night was coming Eduardo was afraid - "night is not for walking" - traditional Africans beliefs are deeply rooted, even in those who have studied in Europe.

accommodation – at late night in Bissau locals sent us to the Grande Hotel, which already didn't remember colonial splendour. It was the ruin, although has already power! Fustiness and no water, however that only for one night.

In Bubaque Island we went to the beach (Small Beach) on the North-West side of town, 20 minutes walk. We slept on the beach under the mosquito nets.

transport – if you want to sail on the archipelago, you need to go to the main harbour in Bissau, in the heart of the city. There is no fixed departure schedule, so you must be lucky. We had a problem to return on the mainland - just after 4 days we caught "canoe" which went from Bubaque to Bissau. Apparently on Wednesday is the best day to departure to the islands, and the easiest day to return is on Sunday.

In minibuses we weren't charge for baggage. 7-place is another story. Leaving Gabu we waited for driver to change his mind about the high price for baggage. The others passengers fill the 7-place (shuttle taxi), and he departed without us (that happened first time). He wanted 1000 F for a piece of baggage. The next one charged us a lot of anyway, 500 F for a piece, usually we got this price for 3 bags. In addition the 7-place took 9 people, in Africa everything is possible.

visa - we received our visa in Ziguinchor (Casamance, Senegal). We waited 15 minutes, the visa is valid for 7 days, the cost of 10,000 CFA (16 €).

Embassies has as well in Dakar and in The Gambia, Guinea and Mauritania.