12.02 till 16.02.07, 4 days, currency rate 1 € = 6500 FG (Guinea Franc), or 1 CFA = 10 FG

highlights – we heard that the Guinea borders have been closed. However, the information was contradictory, so we decided to check it personaly at the border. Well, officails let us go! But we didn’t enjoy it too long, because the situation in the country was not clear, and the bloody riots could occur at any time. For that time the military kept the power and were still on the President Conte site. Because of many demonstrations against the president they closed all public institutions, including schools, hospitals and fuel stations. For us that meant very limited transport. The first night in Guinea was the most nervous in Africa - soldiers woke us up with heavy running and men's voices singing military songs. In my head developed remembrance from movie “Hotel Ruanda”, and the secenes from Kapuścinski’s books, concern bloody inter tribes fights. Fortunately, it was the only form of force demonstration.

To the first village we were able get by taxi, but from there after 24-hour waiting we decided to move on foot. 27-km section to Koundara town we have done at one evening and one morning, spending the night with the locals.

But the following day, 14 February, didn’t start in good way. The closer town we got the louder and more frequently we heard the shooting. At beginning we thought that is animal hunting, but when we recognized the machine-gun sound, all hopes disappeared. The fear got into the heart; once again we reminded the fighting scenes. A local's called the situation “guerre," what means in French “war”. What to do? Return to Guinea-Bissau, far and without a visa? We tried to make inquiries, and, locals explained to us there are a lot of problems in the country, but that should not affect tourists. However, during the war the various human instincts are released, we preffered not to checked but finally we came to Koundara. Military took us to the town centre, area closed to civilians, which looked like ghost town. Now at least we have seen who is shooting, and we could confirm that the barrel was directed into the air. After checking the documents we calmed down slowly got used to continuous, loud shots, which proved to be a form of public intimidation. Well, this year I organized to Ewelina literally saying - shooting Valentine Day.

Gendarmerie announced to us that the public and private transport in the country is forbidden from 6pm to 12pm next day. We were allowed to move around the country, but due to lack of fuel, just on foot. The army offered us a lift, but the price was not acceptable.

We were frightened enough that naturally we didn’t look for more troubles and we decided to change our route. We planned to get to Mali via Senegal (as we got multiple-entry visa), but to the first town in Senegal was 90 kilometers. When the noon heat has gone we started walking again, this time to the north. We have a lot of luck, because after 2 hours hike, the passing horse cart took us on board. In addition to free transport, we had also provided hospitality in driver village, including overnight stay in a traditional round roof cottage. A common meals and in the mornings we were introduced to the whole village. We had so many welcomes that we were late to leave the village on time, to be at border before the police hour. Well, another relaxation day.

The next day we started early. It was wonderful – on the empty narrow red path only our cart, nothing else. Beautiful, but all day sitting on wooden jumping cart was painful for our buttocks. During the night ride I haven’t seen anything, and the horse run fast at gallop. Our driver had family in every passing village, so we had no problem with nice hospitality.

Happy, in one piece, after 4 days of wandering in the African periphery, we returned to the tourist track, catching the delays in unplanned train from Senegal to Bamako, in Mali.

accommodation – I won’t help much

transport – it looked like in normal political situation to be  the cheapest country in West Africa.

visa –we applied for our visa in Dakar, and after the lecture   from the Consul about the proper life and family, we  received   the one month visa in 3 hours, the cost of 20.000 CFA (32 €).

Consulate of Guinea can be found in the following African countries: Senegal, Gambia, Ghana, Guinea Bissau, Mali, Nigeria, Sierra Leone, Liberia and Ivory Coast.