20.03 to 1.04.07, 12 days, currency rate 1 € = 11.900 C (Cedi)
highlights – Ghana is a different country from their neighbors. It was the first country in West Africa who got independence, in 1957. The government cares not only about them (unusual for Africa). You might see the advertising here against AIDS and malaria, bike paths exist in Accra, and in minibuses phone numbers are given to report speeding drivers (over 80 km/h). The public television broadcast educational programs (such as a lecture on gravity), and encourages young people to visits museums with student discounts - all this is really surprising in this continent. In addition, there is cheaper than in neighboring countries. No more “harmattan” (north wind from Sahara in the dry season), so that the air was better for the lungs and camera lenses. Only the humidity has increased and we were sweating a lot.
Unfortunately, we had many quarrels with the local authorities, which got used to that tourists are rich and overpay for everything. The first conflict occurred in Larabanga, where first they did not want to sell us the cola for normal price (the most expensive in Ghana, later we found nearby shop with the acceptable price). Then the village authorities have proposed the possibility of visiting their mosque with an explanation, pay, as much you want but a minimum of 20.000 cedi per person (10 minutes). I mean, it was just to have a look from outside in the middle of their village, and we were not allowed to see it without their guide. The worst was their aggressiveness. Finally our "journalist ID" (fake one, bought in Bangkok) calmed them down and they have taken from us a quarter of the requested amount. However, the part of our group (we were with others tourists), did not want to visit the mosque.
In the Mole NP we have seen from the hill elephants taking a bath. I’ve seen first time in my life wild elephants, so it made an impression. The advantage of this park is the possibility to walk in the park (at early morning or afternoon) with armed ranger. So at afternoon we went on foot to get a close look at those incredible mammals. Unfortunately our guide was not able to track down a game; he also didn’t got us any interesting information. He decided to show us, however, monkeys and wild pigs - he brought us so close to the dump! It was not until way back to the park headquarters when we accidentally encountered the great African elephant. We watched with open jaws, but when he began to fan his ears that was a sign to slowly step back (you can not run!). That was pity the accommodation in the park was too expensive. In addition no camping was allowed anymore (rooms only), so we returned to Larabanga the same day.
In Fieme we went with guide watching monkeys "Colobus" and "Mona" – there was a lot of them. People here treat them specifically. In the event of monkey death, they preparing the coffin and bury it in a special cemetery. It was worth to walk with nice guide who told us a lot of interesting things.
In Kumasi we looked at people from Ashanti Kingdom who wears traditional 12-meter long “kente”, like Roman Gown. Unfortunately, our team still felt negative effects of malaria, making the morale and physical condition a bit downfall. It was a difficult period. It seemed to me that the malaria had bad effect for my friends feeling, but treatment by strong medicines even worse.
On the coast there are 37 forts from colonial times, extending to the length of 500km. Most of them built in XVII century by the British, Danes, Dutch, French, Germans, Swedes and Portuguese, where once gold, spices and ivory, and in later times slaves were held before shipping. There are the terrible dark dungeons where the slaves were keeping in crowd, the sail conditions were similar. There is no surprise that to Americas usually reach live half of captures – others died from exhaustion before they began work. Interesting is that the forts were built not in fear from locals, but against the European competition. Today you can visit these fortresses, and in three of them (Good Hope, Patience and Princess Town) even sleep. We liked the Princess Town - a quiet, non commercial, water for bath must be pulled from the well, beautiful views from the top on the beach and ocean. The fort itself has not yet been fully restored, so that is a more authentic. After an overnight stay in the fortress we swam in the Gulf of Guinea, where the water temperature seems to be perfect. Walk around town was as well quite pleasant, surprisingly only the fact that the local when heard that we want to march to the Cape of Three Points, issued a warning against "bad people". But locals didn’t offer a protection, just informed. However, we hiked with backpacks along Atlantic coast. 
We saw a Fort Metal Cross and interesting villages, where four times children have run away from us with the scream - white! Later, already by public transport, we have seen St. George, St. Jago and Cape Coast fort. As well we decided to visit inside Fort Elmina, entry for 65,000 C. Unfortunately, we quarreled with staff and did not want to watch their fortress.
In the capital, in Accra, we were invited by Steven, who like we is a member of the free online travel organizations (www.couchsurfing.org), which aims to contact and get to know people. Steven invites travelers to his house, and when he is on the road, he is using hospitality from other members. That was relaxing 3 days in company always smiling Ghanaian, we felt like at home. He invited us for his sister wedding, first to church, and later for a small party - it was an interesting experience. We must remember that marriage in Africa is a life event, often combined with financial ruin. The duty of every man wishing to marry woman is to pay "lobola", kind of compensation for her parents. Still should be paid in numbers of cows, or in their equivalent. This payment is the art of negotiation, because the man shouldn’t offer a low price for his love, but from other side doesn’t want to pay too high price which may leave him in debts for many years.
We wanted to repay Steven for his hosting, so we took him to pub - but happened there was promotion and beverages (including beer) and snacks were for free! Accra itself is a fairly civilized town, but if you go to less developed superb (exp. James or Ussher Town), we have seen a piece of real Africa. Even walking around Gulf of Guinea, watching from outside local castles and forts was quite interesting.
The only discomfort during a stay at Steven home has been frequent interruptions in the supply of electricity and water. In Ghana was build a great dam on the Volte River, but lacking of water during the dry season, making hydroelectric power plant unable to produce sufficient quantities of electricity for the entire country. Therefore, every few days (from two to five) the power is cut for 12 hours - once you are sitting with candles, but the next day your neighbor's doesn’t turn on TV (big companies have aggregates), frequently they change time and superb of power cutting.
Even with a lot of quarrels with locals, we left Ghana with good memories remain, as a very important role play the last impression - and they were fantastic thanks to Steven.
| town | site | price in C | €/ pp | duration | note | comments |
| Larabanga | Mosque | 5,000*C | €0.4 | ok | with guide | |
| Mole NP | entry fee to the park | 25,000 C | €2.1 | - | ok | without ISIC 40,000 C |
| camera permit | 2,000 C | €0.2 | - | - | ||
| walking safari to see elephants | 10,000 C | €0.8 | 2 h | ok | without ISIC 15000 C, inc. guide |
|
| Fiema | Boabeng-Fiema Monkey Sanctuary | 40,000 C | €3.4 | 45' | ok | walk with guide |
| Princess Town | Fort | - | - | 30' | ok | accommodation includes entry fee |
| camera permit | 5,000 C | €0.4 | - | - | ||
| €7.3 |
accommodation – contrary to what Lonely Planet is given, it is no longer a low-cost accommodation in the Mole NP.
In Kumasi we had the first hot shower since Morocco - the next one will be in Namibia.
In the whole Ghana, due to electricity cuts, if we spend just one night it is worthwhile to ask which area will be cut off this day/night, and if possibly, change the district or take a hot shower before you the electric boiler will be disable. At evenings cheap hostels distribute oil lamps.
We also recommend accommodation in Fort Princess Town, to escape from civilization.
| town | hotel and address | N | accommodation | price per night | €/ pp | note | comments |
| Sawala | 1 | 5 persons in single room | 40,000 C/ room | €0.7 | 4 | ||
| Larabanga | in local house | 1 | on the roof | 50,000 C/ 3 per | €1.4 | 4 | |
| Fiema | in sanctuary | 1 | double room | 30,000 C/ per | €2.5 | 6 | no power from 6am till 6pm, fan, running water |
| Kumasi | Presbyterian Guesthouse | 4 | 3 persons in double room | 100,000 /room | €2.8 | 8 | fan, running hot water |
| Princess Town | Fort | 1 | old room | 25,000 C/ per | €2.1 | 5 | water from the well, fan, entry fee included in accommodation fee |
| in wild | 1 | construction site | |||||
| hospitality | 3 | couchsurfing | |||||
| 12 | €17.9 (8) |
transport –cheap in Ghana, good road conditions, the drivers sometimes are speeding but in minibuses are information to provide danger driver details. Charges for baggage happened only in the south, which is generally more expensive and more tourists than the north.
| day | destination | transport | price in C | €/ pp | duration | km |
| 68 | border with Ivory - Bole | shuttle taxi | 27,500 C | €2.3 | 1 h | 35 |
| 68 | Bole - Sawla | minibus | 5,000 C | €0.4 | 45' | 30 |
| 69 | Sawla - Larabanga | truck | 20,000 C | €1.7 | 1,5 h | 82 |
| 69 | Larabanga - Mole NP + return | pick-up + walk | 5,000 C + 0 | €0.4 | 15' + 1h15' | 2x 6 |
| 70 | Larabanga - Nterso | truck | 25,000 C | €2.1 | 2 h | 80 |
| 70 | Nterso - Techiman | bus | 30,000 C | €2.5 | 4,5 h | 185 |
| 70 | Techiman - Nkoranza | shuttle taxi | 9,000 C | €0.8 | 30' | 29 |
| 70 | Nkoranza - Fiema | minibus | 7,000 C | €0.6 | 30' | 20 |
| 71 | Fiema - Nkoranza | minibus | 7,000C/ per + 1000C/ 3per bag | €0.6 | 30' | 20 |
| 71 | Nkoranza - Techiman | bus | 4,000 C | €0.3 | 40' | 29 |
| 71 | Techiman - Kumasi | minibus | 19,000C/ per + 20,000*C/ 3per bag | €2.2 | 2 h | 126 |
| 75 | Kumasi - Takoradi | minibus | 46,000 C + 6,000 C/ bag | €4.4 | 5 h | 296 |
| 75 | Takoradi - Agona | minibus | 5,000 C | €0.4 | 30' | 29 |
| 75 | Agona - Princess Town | minibus | 8,500 C + 5,000 C/ bag | €1.1 | 45' | 33 |
| 76 | Princess Town - Cape 3 Points - Akwidaa | walk | - | - | 2h + 1,5h | 9 + 9 |
| 76 | Akwidaa - Dixcove | minibus | 5,000 C + 2,500 C/ bag | €0.6 | 20' | 10 |
| 76 | Dixcove - Agona | minibus | 3,000 C | €0.3 | 20' | 10 |
| 76 | Agma - Takoradi | bus | 3,000 C | €0.3 | 45' | 29 |
| 76 | Takoradi - Elmina | minibus | 11,500 C + 4,000 C/ bag | €1.3 | 1 h | 64 |
| 77 | Elmina - Cape Coast | minibus | 2,800 C | €0.2 | 25' | 15 |
| 77 | Cape Coast - Accra | minibus | 26,000 C + 5,000 C/ bag | €2.6 | 3 h | 165 |
| 78-79 | Accra - Tema + return x2 | car x2 | - | - | 4x 30' | 4x 25 |
| 80 | Accra - Alofa | minibus | 32,000*C | €2.7 | 3 h | 200 |
| city transport | taxi, tro tro | 12,500 C/ 3 persons | €0.4 | - | - | |
| €28.2 | 1617 |
visa – we decided to get our visa in the capital of Burkina Faso. Unfortunately we came there on Ghana Independence Day (6 March), and the following day the embassy also has a day off. The next day was Women's Day (8 March), which this time Burkina Faso is celebrated as a holiday. It was not until the fourth day, on Friday, when the Ghana Embassy opened its doors but we had to fight for same day visa issuing, didn’t want to wait the entire weekend.
Normally you wait 2 days, the cost of 15.000 CFA (24 €), valid for 90 days from the date of issue, for 3 months stay. This means that you can enter before the expiry of 90 days, and since crossing the border you can stay for the next 3 months.
Ghana also has the embassies in Benin, Senegal, Guinea, Mali, Nigeria, Sierra Leone, Togo and Ivory Coast.