18.02 till 6.03.07, 16 days, currency rate 1 € = 650 F (CFA, Western African Franc)

highlights –one day Mali was one of the most developed and richest kingdoms in Africa. I like the story about their king Kankan Musa, who during his XIV century pilgrimage to Mecca distributed so much gold on the way, which causes it the gold value on the world market for the next generation. Unfortunately, he wasn’t the best manager – had to come back completely without money, and depended on the hospitality and kindness of visited cities.

As is usually the case in the capitals, we were running at embassies and offices. In addition Bamako has nothing special to offer.

We reached Djenne, which is famous for its large, beautiful   mosque (the largest mud and clay building in the world). For non-Muslim entry inside is prohibited, although there are some attempts to call you - I do not know if you won’t have any problems. It is worth, however, climb one of the nearby roofs for better view. Djenne Mosque is not the only attraction - the whole town is like from the fairy tale. You can try to walk in labyrinth of narrow streets, where, except the usual buildings, worth to get attention to the “traditional chief house”, or Islamic schools of Koran "madrassas". On Monday in front of mosque is colorful local market, such folklore adds charm. Admission fee to Djenne is collected by non uniformed man at the junction 27 km before the town (describes in LP). We didn’t believe in his authenticity and finally the police explained this misunderstanding, but we wanted student discount, so we were allow to buy two tickets instead of three.

In Mopti we were attack by fake guides and carriers – we had a lot of patience to get rid of them, but finally we had to start negotiations with someone. We waited almost a day before we started sailing, so during the free time I recommend to visit local market - the biggest impression on me made huge shiny slabs of salt. Finally we put off our wooden cargo boat (“pinasa”) from the bank and for the next 3 days we went with Niger current. It was a wonderful time - beautiful desert landscapes, everyday observation of animals (hippos) and coastal livelihoods. For this time we released ourselves from 3 African pain factors - from heat, dust and human chaos. There were no worries about accommodation, transport, bargain and hassle. Some other travelers spoke English, giving us the rest from our weak French.

Timbuktu is a legend city, lying on the caravan route at the Sahara gate. For centuries salt had the value of gold. City was famous not only from its wealth, but also with the quantity and quality of Islamic schools, scholars and wise men of the Koran. Additional secrets and inaccessible rule made a lot of stories around Timbuktu - from 1588 till 1853 there was no entry for non-Muslims. At that time, 43 Europeans have tried their luck in Arab disguise, but only four managed to do it (but one of them didn’t leave alive). History makes this place unique, because at this moment little remained from the rich past. I like it anyway – sandy streets, houses made of  clay, decorated doors and windows frames, majestic mosques and Tuaregs walking in their blue and emerald robes. We have been alert before the local’s operators and souvenir seller’s hassle, but it was not so bad. At evening we went on foot several kilometers into the Sahara desert. On the dunes were pleasant atmosphere and the return way we were followed by the splendor of the moon and accompanied by two small barefooted kids. Entry to the city you should pay the tax 5000 CFA, but it is charged only when you want to visit the Dyingerey Ber Mosque (XIV century, the oldest in West Africa) or Ethnological Museum, so looks like the tax is nothing less than the admission fee to these two places.

Then we went to the Dogons country - reportage at the end of Mali.

town	site	price in F	€/ pp	duration	note	comments
Djenne	entry to town	2000*F/ 3 persons	€1.0	3 h	worth	official price1000 F /person
	view from the roof	500 F	€0.8	15'	ok	good view for photo
Dogon	all fees and charges	4080 F/ person	€6.3	7 days	super	details in "Dogon country "
			€8.1

accommodation – in Dogons country like in others desert areas  (Timbuktu), a very popular option is to sleep on the roof. It   is warm enough, but may disturb you sand if wind blows strong.

town	hotel and address	N	accommodation	price per night	€/ pp	note	comments
Bamako	Maison de Jueves, LP	2	double room	2500 F/ per	€3.8	6
Timbuktu	Sahara Pansion	1	on the roof	1500 F/ per	€2.3	5
Dogon	details in "Dogon country"	2	on the roof	1000 F/ per night	€1.5	4
	in wild	5	in "Dogon country"
	in transport	6	train, bus, boat
		16			€12.9 (5)

transport - in Mali surprised us then you can find schedule time and bus prices, what didn’t happen since Morocco. So far   the vehicle from the station departed when full of passengers, sometimes we had to wait several hours in heat, dust and crowd until the driver start to go. Of course, before you had to haggle for the proper price for yourself and for a baggage. In Bamako is not the case - the price and bus departure timetable was written next to ticket office. You could buy a ticket in advance and will get one seat per person – top of luxury in Africa!

At the station in Bamako the carriers will try to tell you then the bus is going directly to Djenne. This is not true – the bus is too big for the local ferry. All buses going to Mopti or Sevare are dropping passengers on intersection (“carfour”),   where you need to find the connection to Djenne. We chose the Bani company which depart at 4 pm, we arrived to the Djenne junction at 3 am, and after the sleep on the ground we continued the trip to Djenne next morning

Getting to Timbuktu – the best connections are in Mopti, where Friday afternoon is best chance to departure. Here a group of pseudo guides hassled us aggressively after getting out from the bus. Negotiations were lasting few hours, finally with the selected sober one, in a quiet place. Finally we chose company Boukadazy Tikambo, but don’t pay until you find yourself on the board at talk with captain. Their offer started from 30,000 F per person without meals and we ended for 10,000 F for transport per person plus 5,000 F for 3 meals per day for three days (as it turned out the lowest price among the other foreigners). Lunch and dinner was always the same we had enough rice and fish, cooked on the Niger River, the same water where people bath, wash, and have a toilet. In addition, we were able to take advantage of stay additional night on the boat one night before departure in Mopti and one night after late arrival close to Timbuktu. We were lucky, because our trip last for perfect 3 days, then the other tourists reported even 7 days trip – due to low water level (we stacked on the river bed only once), technical boat problems, captain shopping in some local villages, etc. Take a lot of food and water supplies (purified water in 500ml plastic bags for 25 CFA).  

From Timbuktu to Douentza departures are early morning, around 4 am, to queue for the first ferry for the southern side of Niger. If you miss it, you have to wait for the second turn. We booked pick up from the hotel without additional charge.

day	destination	transport	price in F	€/ pp	duration	km
37-39	Tambacounda - Bamako	data in Senegal				180 Sen+ 510 Mali
41	Bamako - Carfour to Djenne	night bus	7000 F	€10.8	10,5 h	545
42	Cerfour - Djenne	pick-up and ferry	1250 F	€1.9	1 h	27
42	Djenne - Mopti	pick-up and ferry + bus	2000 F	€3.1	1,5 h + 2h	27 + 102
43	Mopti - Korioume	boat (pinassa)	10,000 F	€15.4	3 days	400
46	Kouriome - Timbuktu	pick-up	1000 F	€1.5	30'	18
47	Timbuktu - Douentza	Jeep	10,000 F	€15.4	9 h	260
47-54	Dogon	walk and hitchhiking	-	-	7 days	177
54	Bankass - Koro	truck	1500*F	€2.3	1 h	52
54	Koro - Ouahigouya	minibus	2500 F/ per + 500 F/ 3 persons bag	€4.1	3 h	40 Mali + 51 Burkina
	city transport	minibus	250 F	€0.4	-	-
				€54.9		2158

Dogon’s Country - lies in the Mali territory, but in reality should be treated separately, due its originality. It lies along the Bandiagara Abyss, with a characteristic cliff several hundred meters high and long for about 150 km. In the middle of this cliff there are abandoned Tellem houses, the people who lived here hundreds years before Dogon’s. Houses were built in almost inaccessible places; it is not surprising they were called "People-Birds". As well unbelievable is Dogon’s knowledge about Sirius – all world thought that is a “double star”, but finally development of modern telescopes proved then Dogon’s were right – Sirius is a “triple star”. Dogons nation is known for their dance with tall masks, high up to 10 meters. Tourists may not be allowed to watch the dance, but that all depending on the village and importance of ceremony.

In Douentza we tried to find a public transport into the Dogons Country. Official public schedule for Bamba leaves on Friday only, and maybe additionally on Saturday (2000 CFA). Unfortunately, tourism mafia is well organized here – we couldn’t accept their financial conditions (the jeep with driver costs from 60 € per day + fuel), so we went on foot. Here be careful with the map scale in the Lonely Planet, it is misleading and shows that the distance from Douentza to Yendouma is only 40km, but in reality is twice further. It was the next day when after the 25 kilometers walk we caught the second passing car that way. My father always said: "It is better to have uncomfortable ride then comfortable walk" - this time its worked, because I was happy even with the half of the body hanging outside hot, jumping 4WD.

In this way we found ourselves in the Yendouma village, where once a week (local week last for 5 days) is a local colorful market. And we were lucky to see there interesting clothed Dogons people (dominated in the indigo colour). They proved to be extremely nice and warmly welcome, and passing them on the trail was a real pleasure.

The next day we went to Youga Piri village, which become one of our favorite. When we were climbing the cliff, the beautiful Dogon’s houses slowly uncovered from behind the rocks with characteristic small towers - storehouses. Slightly higher in the majestic red rock we could see Tellem’s houses. Further walk on the cliff, gorges and canyons brought us lots of unforgettable impressions.

With all luggages on your back for the next 6 days we were crossing their lovely land. At morning we walk for a few hours, then a interesting places tour, lunch and deserved few hours siesta. When the sun reduced its strong heat, we started again be on the move. The first two nights we slept on the roof of the Dogon’s houses, then in the wild in the wonderful natural scenery. Finally was the full moon and all area around us was bright enough to walk and stay without torches. But one night we experienced mystical event - total lunar eclipse with drums sounds from animistic Dogons.

Despite some early warnings - the guide is not necessary. Only from time to time when looking for a trail leading up or down the cliff, for a few hours we hired a local boy who guided us by the shortest route. In some villages we also took guides - first, to find and hear something interesting, second, to not enter accidentally into a sacred, forbidden place. However, if you want to take the guide, I propose to do it on the spot - the first it should be Dogon men, second it is a lot cheaper than hiring someone in Mopti or Bamako (would be good as well if guide speak language what we understand).

In addition to the Youga villages complex, also nice to remember was a hike on paved road (great views) from Banani to Bongo, walk through the tunnel to Gogolii and further walk down in gorge to Banani. Great impression made as well Nombori and Doundouru village, at the cliff’s top Yawa village and its surrounding area, and divided into Animist, Christian and Muslim part Begnimato village. A more commercial villages Endee and Teli due to its location are also worthy to recommend.

Typically other tourists paid from 25 to 40 € per day for a guide all inclusive. Including transport from Bandiagara town to and back from the cliff, baggage transport on the donkey, all meals and accommodations, admissions to the villages.

Practical info about our route and costs in Dogons Country:
The entire cost was 23,555 CFA per person (€36.2), we were there whole one week from Douentza to Bankass, including 117km on foot and 60km by car.

accommodation – in almost every village there is "campement", ie simple hostel. The best option is to stay on the roof, much more fresh air than in tiny rooms. Prices on the roof are from 1,000 to 2,000 CFA.

meals – cost us €27, but a large amount of stocks we were carrying with us from the city. When we were stopping for the afternoon break we usually ordered lunch - noodles or rice in tomato sauce with vegetables or chicken, the price 1500-2500 CFA. It was a big size and delicious, so that sometimes we ate two portions in three people. We took water from the wells, and treated it with the purification tablet. The cost of bottled water ranged from 800 to 1,250 CFA. A very popular and loved by local are kola nuts, so take some of them with you.

route – we walked at mornings, heavy backpack on our back, then because of the heat the lunch break is recommended. During a break the owner provide the mattresses; you can take a shower, drink cold water etc. generally great luxury. You don’t need to hike the whole route along the cliff, in many places you can get in or get off by roads that allow you to start or end your trip - a lot of possibilities from one to several days. It can be great if we find at least one market day on our route – check the guidebook or ask locals which villages have it on your way.

visiting villages – you must pay a tax when visiting the village - from Banani to Tireli 1,000 CFA and from Nombori to Kani-Kombole 500 CFA, for the other villages there is no tax. But if you do not stop in the village, you do not have to pay. The tax is for entrance to the village, also on the uninhabited area, visiting Tellem’s houses, taking pictures (if taking photos of people you have to always ask permission of the person directly concerned). Tax should be paid to the elders of the village. In addition you can take a boy guide around the village who will show you and explain some interesting facts, and you are safer to not get into the holy and secret places. You can also visit a "Hogon," that is spiritual leaders and “witch doctor”.

Day 1 (evening) and 2 (morning), Douentza - Yendouma, 25 km on foot and 60 km by car:
Douentza - 25 km, 6 h walk, on the way sleeping in the wild and at morning we walked again, until we hitchhiked a 4WD for another 60 km to Yendouma (3 h journey). Flat area, a lot of roads, junctions and trails. Night we spent in Yendouma on the roof of Campement Abergue Gain Dogona after bargain for 1,000 CFA per person. An interesting colourful uncommercial market (every 5 days).

day 3, Yendouma - Ibi, 15 km, 5,5 h walk:
From the hostel we took a guide Aldramane Asse for 4000 CFA per three persons (bargained from 10,000 CFA), which led us to separate hill, where we were climbing on the rocks and ladders, walking in narrow gorges and slots. That was one of the most beautiful places in the Dogon’s Country, I recommend this side trip.
Yendouma - 1h - Youca Piri - 1,5 h - Youca Dolara - 1 h - Yougona - lunch. Here we said goodbye to our guide. Afternoon we went already in flat ground from Yougona - 1 h - Koundu - 1 h - Ibi, overnight stay in a "Mini Prix” hostel, very nice, 1000 CFA per night on the windy sandy roof or in the stuffy room.

day 4, Ibi - Banani - Sanga - Banani - Tireli, 25 km, 6,5 h walk:
Ibi - 50 '- Banani, where we left luggage at Camp Camelot de Bongo. On the light we climbed up the paved road to Sanga, with great views on the Tellem’s houses on the cliff, useful 300 mm lens. In Bongo you can see the tunnel, then on the cliff edge Gogoli village, from where you can descent in steeply ravine back to Banani (2.5 h, 10 km) and again from here with the luggage at the bottom of the cliff - 1 h - Ireli - lunch.
After a break in Ireli - 1 h - Amani (crocodile lake) - 1 h - Tireli - a night in wild behind the village.

day 5, Tireli - Guimini, 14 km, 5 h walk:
Tireli - 2.5 h - Nombori (optional routes - one sandy closer to the cliff and that is the right one, and a second car track running away from the cliff). We visited Nombori - a guide for 1 h for 1,000 CFA for 3 persons (bargained from 2,000 CFA). No one asked us for tax payment.

After lunch, we went through the vast sand dune and then along the cliff until we got to the crossing paved road. We climbed it and when the paved road turns sharply to the right passing over the rocks, I would recommend climb the stones on the left where the vertical wall ends, to the top to Yawa village. From there walk down to the Guimini village; overnight stay in the wild.

day 6, Guimini - Ende, 18 km, 4 h walk:
Guimini - 2 h climb to Bagniamato, we took a guide for 1000  CFA for 3 persons. Bagniamato is a very interesting village, divided into 3 districts - Christian, Muslim and Animist. Take care and don’t enter into the holy place. Then 30' descent to Doundouru next to the cliff, you may want to visit. Tax 500 CFA per person, and guides 1000 CFA for 2 persons for 1 h. After lunch we went on flat trail - 40 'to the Yuba Talu – and from here 1 h to the Endee. Accommodation in the wild.

day 7, the Endee - Kani Kombole, 8 km, 1h 45' walk
Endee we were visiting on the sunrise, tax 500 CFA per person, guides 500 CFA / 3 people for 30 minutes. From here flat trail to Teli, 1 h, which like the Endee is worth visiting. Teli tax 500 CFA, guide 500 CFA. There are waterfalls, but not active in the dry season. From here was only 45’ to Kani Kombole, where you may visit beautiful mosque.
Since we couldn’t wait any longer for transport to Bankass, we went on foot, 12 km, 3 h, sleeping on the way in the wild.

visa –we tried to obtain a visa at the Embassy in Dakar, but the secretary convinced us that at the border comes cheaper and faster - so we did. In the train crossing the border we received from the official the certification for 15,000 CFA (€24). With this paper within five days you should be reported to the police or immigration - we went to the immigration office (Surete) in Bamako. Here we applied for a visa and the next day they gave us the passport with one month visa, without any charges.

If you prefer, however, to arrive at the border with a visa in the passport, it can be obtained from the following countries: Burkina Faso, Morocco, Mauritania, Senegal, Gambia, Ghana, Guinea, Niger, Sierra Leone and Ivory Coast.