3.04 to 9.04.07, 6 days, currency rate 1 € = 650 F (CFA, Western African Franc)
highlights – in Ouidah we visited horrible cage for the snakes, proudly called the "Python Temple”. In the "Sacred Forest" was already better, English speaking guide told us about voodoo, explained a lot of important things, showing the good side. It was interesting, but you need to push the guide a bit to get the information you want to know. We walked as well on "Track of Slaves." This four-kilometer road leads from the fort to the coast, where millions of blacks the last time walked on the African land. At the end of this road is a monument "Gate of no return" - from here they went to America. During the dry season (November - March) on weekends are held voodoo religious ceremonies on the beach, visitors can gaze on the side. The largest annual feast is in 10 January.
Next we visited Cotonou, but you can compare this city to the indoor building connected to the exhaust pipe. In the CO2 mist before we found the hotel we decided to run away from there. Togo and Benin residents are fans of cement - you can see it everywhere, concrete as much possible. It looks ugliness. Even in small villages they raised around their houses two-meter high concrete wall.
Slaves were captured mostly by other Negro tribes, usually their enemies - then brought them to “white people”, who were waiting in the comfortable coastal forts. In exchange they received "miracles" from Europe such as alcohol, weapons, mirrors, glitters, plastic, etc. The European colonialism has a lot of really negative aspects, if not only (robbery, rape and egoism), the former "white power" in Africa. In XVII century Tofinu tribe defending themselves against slavery got the idea of building a bamboo village hidden on the lake, a few kilometers from the coast. Now the village is known as Ganvie. Despite many discouraging stories about bad atmosphere for tourists, we went there and I think that was a very good decision - we stayed overnight in cozy hostel on bamboo piles, 2 meters above the water level. When the sunset has gone the last tourists disappeared, and we from our terrace could observe the normal life of the 30,000 inhabitants of the village. It was wonderful – in number of channels boats of different sizes were passing slowly, some engine-driven, but usually with a paddle or long pole (pushing from the bottom). On the water was market, school, church, small cinema, hairdresser etc, simply more spontaneous and primitive version of Venice. Although some frustrated residents gave us to understand that we are not welcome, but they were exceptions (watch taking the pictures, I mostly did hidden behind the hotel window). Price for transport to Ganvie is too expensive; I think it is worth to get there on your own, somewhere outside the main port of Abomey - Calavi. Fee for tourists is much higher than for local and depends on the type of boat (motor or paddle) and of the number of people willing to cruise – price list in the harbor. In our case no other tourists came in order to reduce costs. It is recommended to stay overnight there; it is completely different when the daily tourist tours disappear. All prices for the cruise include return trip, we took only one way to the hotel, but the price was the same. Hotel owner gave us a free lift on the following day.
In Abomey (not to be confused with Abomey - Calavi) is worthy take a tour to the Kingdom of Dahomey. Guide is essential, because without a description of these palaces this is nothing special. Even I could say that they are ugly, all renovated with concrete. Monsieur La Lutte proved to be a good guide; he does it funny and professionally. He lives in Hotel la Lutte it is as well good option to stay overnight. La Lutte arranged motor bikes (too long distance to walk) and with the whole group we traveled around the village, he stopped from time to time and explained. We left this place very pleased, spending there as well relaxing Easter.
On the way to Niger we stopped in Parakou, and the first time happened that local students bought us a beer. They decided that we are their guests. We revenged the same way and nicely were talking about two different worlds for us.
town | site | price in F | €/ pp | duration | note | comments |
Ouidah | Fort museum + tip for guide | 1000F + 500F/ 3per | €1.8 | 1 h | ok | guide asking for tip |
Sacred Forest | 1000 F | €1.5 | 1 h | ok | guide included | |
Python Temple | 1000 F | €1.5 | 15' | tragic | guide included | |
Ganvie | paddle boat 2-4per+tip for guide | 4050F/ per +1000 F/ 3per | €6.7 | 3 h | worth | transport and guide |
Abomey | Dahomey Kingdom+tip for guide | 3000F/ per +1000 F/ 3per | €5.1 | 2,5 h | ok | motor with driver, and guide |
€16.6 |
accommodation – in Ouidah we were looking for the cheapest hotel, so locals led us to the brothel. Prices per hour or per night were listed. We didn’t mind it, the owners were ok and girls weren’t disturb us.
In Ganvie Hotel Carrefour is located near a market, ideal for us. For the location the hotel was relatively cheap, so it was a right thing to order their expensive food. The accommodation price includes also a free return transport.
In Abomey, however we should go to more relaxed Lutta’s backpackers hostel, but in the Volcan hostel we got discount and there were a better conditions.
town | hotel and address | N | accommodation | price per night | €/ pp | note | comments |
Ouidah | Ermitage | 2 | 3 persons in double room | 2000 F/ per | €3.1 | 4 | wc, fan, very small |
Ganvie | Hotel Carrefour, LP | 1 | 3 persons in double room | 2000 F/ per | €3.1 | 7 | wc, fan |
Abomey | Hotel Volcan, LP | 2 | 3 persons in double room | 5000*F/ room | €2.6 | 6 | wc, fan |
Parakou | Hotel Conovies (nearby les Canaris hotel, LP) | 1 | 3 persons in double room | 6500*F/ room | €3.3 | 6 | wc, fan |
6 | €17.8(6) |
transport – “Slaves Track” you can walk, but for those that hike in the heat causes the problem, you can rent a motor (in Benin called zemi-john) for 300 CFA for a one way.
The interesting view in the country is stalls selling fuel directly from the bottles of all sizes - much cheaper than the federal fuel stations, smuggling from neighboring Nigeria.
Zemi-john motor bikes are extremely popular, but it is not the safest way of transport, to have the accident is not so difficult. Bus rides are pleasure and convenience.
day | destination | transport | price in F | €/ pp | duration | km |
82 | border - Ouidah | 7-place | 4000 F/ 3 persons | €2.1 | 45' | 56 |
83 | Slave Track + return | walk | - | - | 2x 40' | 2x 4 |
84 | Ouidah - Cotonou | 7-place | 600 F/ per | €0.9 | 45' | 41 |
84 | Cotonou - Abomey Calavi | shuttle taxi | 400 F/ per | €0.6 | 20' | 15 |
84 | Abomey Calavi - Ganvie | no motor pirogue | costs in highlights | 30' | 3 | |
85 | Ganvie - Abomey Calavi | no motor pirogue | including in accommodation fee | 1,5 h | 3 | |
85 | Abomey Calavi - Abomey | 7-place | 2000 F/ per | €3.1 | 2 h | 120 |
87 | Abomey Dahomey Kingdom | motor | costs in highlights | 2,5 h | 15 | |
87 | Abomey - Bohicon | motor | 300 F | €0.5 | 15' | 9 |
87 | Bohicon - Parakou | 7-place | 11000*F/ 3 persons | €5.6 | 4 h | 289 |
88 | Parakou - Manaville | bus AC | 3500 F | €5.4 | 5 h | 318 |
88 | Manaville - border | walk | - | - | 30' | 2 |
€18.2 | 879 |
visa – we entered Benin on Entante tourist visa (described in the "visa" Burkina Faso), valid for five countries. Cost us 20% of 25.000, which is 8 €.
Benin has its diplomatic missions in Guinea, Côte d'Ivoire, Ghana, Niger, Nigeria, Senegal, Algeria, Libya, Gabon and the Democratic Republic of Congo.