Finally in 23 October 2007 we stand up on Cape of Good Hope, in place where we were going for the last 283 days (over 9 months). We celebrated with that what we like the most: wine, cheese and chocolate. Success - we crossed Africa without robbery, without permanent damage to health, poorer in the wallet but richer with the amazing experiences. Standing on Cape of Good Hope we fill up with good hope for the future, because it's certainly not our last trip, we have further plans. Now, however, we had to come back to reality - on the next day we took off to our loved Sydney, where we must study and work again to be able to go on another adventure - we let you know. Thank you very much.

Additional information - how to look our average day of travel in Africa? Our daily elements were: food, transport and accommodation. Briefly describe them, but not all of the following aspects have occurred at a time, in every place / country, differed from each other in the intensity and quality.

food - need to forget about the potatoes, hamburgers, cheese and chocolate. In Africa this are deficit products (with the some exception in large cities). In our daily menu appeared cassava, yam, rice, pasta, fried fish, onion, etc. We were eating usually in the street - the cheapest and easily to find a "Big Mama" facing her portable cook-shop. They welcome us with a smile and start to uncover the pots, showing their contents. As we find well presenting dish, ask for the possibility of its taste. The price is rather small.

Unfortunately, the monotony of the meals kill your appetite. Local African specialties will not be our favourites. The most I hate now the fish sauce. During the transport we don't have to worry about the supply of food - at the check points, mosques, or wherever the vehicle stopped at least briefly, to our windows run the sellers with pots on their heads. I love grilled meat, and Ewelina loved cooked maize. There is no scale, the products are sold by items, exp. 3 large tomatoes for 100 CFA, or 4 smaller for 75 CFA. Salt and pepper (or similar) are sold by cup or glass. Regarding drinkable water from the tap I usually ask some white people, who are staying in the region for a long time - they know best. If I see in the village pump or well is installed, then I use purification tablets. In the cities very popular are low-cost purification water in the plastic bags, sold for around € 0.08 per 500ml. We are trying to feed properly, but sometimes does not go. For example, after Angola I could work as a model for the anatomy lesson - unfortunately not in class with the muscular system, but the bone one - in 5 months on this trip I lost 13 kilograms!

transport - that the hardest attempt. "Africa goes at the mornings", so this is the best time to get to the bus station, which doesn't look like bus station from your imagination. First attack you people to show you your vehicle, screaming highly prices and sometimes pulling your backpack to the vehicle. As you finally find a competent os to negotiate the amount, begins the bargain. Rates are not listed and is advisable to know the tariff for locals, because your charge will be much higher. As already we determine costs per os, it starts quarrel about baggage charges. Just do not ask what time is departure because it automatically qualifies you to novices traveller. We must wait until a vehicle overfilled with passenger, often for several hours in the sun.

However, moment arrives when the last passenger appear - we go, huraaa..... hmm, wait with excitement because the vehicle still has to be refuel, put the air to the tires, feed the driver, get a few extra passengers (although there is no more space). Then just out of the town first stop on the check post where police must review all documents, luggage (search for a small bribe). We go, tight and hot, chicken under a wooden bench smells, a piece of metal (part of the car) with painful hurt your body. After some time a bad road surface let you realized that you do not get to your destination as quickly as you thought, because the distance in kilometres don't convert the same way like in Europe. But the most dangerous, however, is when you just hit a good section of paved road - the driver like speeding and looks like the overtaking on the curve is a matter of honour - for me they are idiots!

In a city usually we use two types of transport. The first is a motor taxi - quickly and simply to the target, but it is no difficult for the accident. One motor can take two passengers with two large and two small backpacks! Other solution is taxi collective - the driver of the marked car goes slowly along the street shoulders and listening the potential calls - if he hears the name of the district which already going to with other passengers, gives a horn signal and take you (traditionally travel up to 6 customers inside).

accommodation – rule is simple, because it is not important the quality only the price (of course with some limits with the quality). At the evening we get to the next city, slowly orientate on the labyrinth of streets and, according to a guide, go to the cheapest hostel. New book, but prices are usually no updated. Or maybe when they see us the price rise up? So, our strategy was to split and go separately to different hostels with mention that a friend is already in neighbouring hostel (which it really did) and then choose the best offer. When we travelled with Radek or Magda, we asked usually for small double room, often sharing a large bed for three of us. Of course in situation when you pay per room, not per os. More difficult was when we get to the town late at night, and depending on the security of the district we walk or get by taxi, and usually have to accept the conditions of the sleepy owner. Alternatively, we tried to sleep on the train station or anywhere in the wild, where we were safe from the street crime.

Typical cheap hostels (often those rented for the hour) usually look similar. Small dark room, mould on the walls, little smell, bars in a small window with a rip off mosquitoes net. Even in larger cities there is no guarantee that lights will work, or that the power station does not switch off the electricity. Lights problem can be solved yet, we have candles and torches, but more trouble is with the fan, because the stifling air and mosquitos will not let you sleep. You can search for "auberge" with its own generator, but those despite working electricity, are not always guarantee a good sleep - because the huge speakers might play a disco music for whole night.

Toilets are a separate matter, and in most cases that is a hole in the floor. Cheaper rooms have usually shared bathroom in the hall, which is in the different condition - excuse me, but I will not describe details. With H2O is worse than the electricity - the running water is a rare luxury. Mostly we got a bucket with mugs called "bucket shower".

Price for those "luxuries" is not usually appropriate to the African reality but local can sleep on the street or has some relations, and you, white - a synonym for the rich man will pay, because you remain without choice. At least some of the hostel owners thought so. Three times we used the web hosts, and this is the interesting experience. If you want to know the local life (such is the establishment of "Servas" and "couchsurfing"), you need to go for a compromise with your own plans and synchronize time with your host schedule.

Easier was with accommodation in the villages, because there are more open people than in cities, and if we asked for possibilities to set up our foams under the tree, we got permission. Not once we got the whole house for our disposal. These were mostly free hospitality and in revenge before we went out, we tried to donate the host, usually with basic food, which we carried for those occasions. Depending when and where the night caught us, if the region was generally safe, it happened to sleep in the wild - at the railway stations, construction sites, not far from the road etc. During trekking we set up under the stars, away from the noise of civilization. The weather was good for us, because only from Cameroon to Gabon we were in rain, the remaining part of the route we travelled during the dry season.

The money - in most of African countries is far better use Visa than Maestro Card (only in Morocco, Namibia and South Africa both worked). For cash, in Western Africa is better to operate with Euro, but in Central and Southern Africa have better value the American dollars. American Express travellers checks failed as a great backup - after the stolen cheques I reported this fact by telephone, gave them full serial numbers (recorded them on email). Unfortunately, my application was rejected? I fought by the emails with the officials, who tried to rid of me, giving as one of the reasons, the lack of an original bill of purchase. So I stopped until my return to Australia, where I found the conditions for refund - no mention of the obligation to have a original docket of purchase. This time they said so my cheques have been carried out with my signature, and they mention from where I have money to travel if I am a student? I requested access to my "signature" - they sent me a photocopy. I had to work as graphologist and sent them details of a significant difference in the signature. In addition, the date of selling the cheques has already been after I reported the fact of loss. Finally, after half a year they said I am right, but to transfer money to my account still took them over a month - and American Express guarantee refund within 24 hours.

Africa by Kapuscinski still exists - sometimes hard to understand animist local beliefs that are deeply rooted inside Africans. From my own experiences with contact with locals, and as well from the stories of Polish Priests (met in Gabon, Angola and both Congas), I heard a dozen different unreliable history. I'm not surprise now that Africans do not walk at night - after dark only evil ghosts walk. In the case of the disease first treatment is the witch doctor (catholic medical clinic often is a last help, often too late) and with animist methods. Such as the girl which broke the leg - doctor caught the rooster, broke his leg and tied the injured animal near her bed, believing that this contribute to help the girl with broken bone.

For me, the most frightening is the fact that in the event of illness or death, there is not seeking a reason why this happened, but WHO sent this evil on us or on our family. If the which doctor has indicated someone, then the family takes revenge. Well, family and friends are able to change their faces in the blink of an eye, convert into aggressor, if only he indicate the guilty man. The missionaries told us the stories about beat, stone beat, burn, chase etc, even bury alive newborn "which ate the soul of the mother", if she died at childbirth. We were afraid then during stay in the villages, we can be pointed as a reason for someone's death. It seems however, that which doctor is a such clever businessman - his tips cost, and he also takes bribes. If someone has a problem with others (such as the sick child or unfit to work the old man in the family, there is no social system like pension), can ask fetcher to an indication that os. In the more developed parts of Africa which doctor must now consider the federal law. Government must struggle with traditional law, if they certain exceed the moral boundaries. In Gabon (one of the richest country in Africa) for two weeks before the elections the children do not go to school, and that because the candidates to ensure its success during the election, order the sacrifice from the people! When police found the body without sex, ears and nose - the investigation stops because it led to high politicians. Priests are aware of the fact that they can not prohibit their local beliefs, but slowly and with common sense are mixing local and catholic beliefs and , over a long time, some aspects can be eliminated, at least those dangerous to health and life.

People - eating, driving, seeking accommodation - wherever we were, we always met the locals. This amazing contact with simple, joyful people raised the huge energy inside me (fact, not always positive one), add as many colours and emotions, without which the trip would not be so exciting. People were so different, curious, open, nice, sometimes unpleasant and aggressive, but the vast majority with the smile.

And even if with running years I begin to forget some places and events, I will associate Africa with the group of laugh, joyful, barefoot running kids. Also with the faces of elderly - as sincere in features, smile from ear to ear, naive shining eyes and white teeth - this images I will never forget. I associate Africans with a lack of planning - they are living today, without the worries and concerns what tomorrow will bring. The fact I can't understand that and many others their behaviour, but I accept it because it seems they are good in their own world, so why change it? Ah, Africa! Still wild, still different - you may go and get the experience by yourself - I recommend.