18.03 till 20.03.07, 2 days, currency rate 1 € = 650 F (CFA, Western African Franc)

highlights – so when we got a chance to visit Ivory Coast (the visa Entante described in Burkina Faso), we took advantage of that and went to this unintentional, exotic sounding country. Apparently the political situation and safety has been improved. After the war country still was divided into north and south, but with peace at that moment.

When we were leaving Burkina Faso (direct translate of the name of the country is "land without corruption”), the border official when filling a book with absurdity questions, asked us in which hotel will we stay in Côte d'Ivoire. We didn’t know (even Lonely Planet does not describe north part of the country), so I invented name (which I saw somewhere earlier) and told to bureaucrat: "We will stop in Bouna in Hotel le Paix". He laughed and commented "Peace Hotel, over there? In rebels country?” Later he asked to pay (bribes) for stamp in the passport. Of course he got no money, so he was not as nice as at the beginning. He had to find an excuse to give our passports without the required fee, because his boss was already just behind the corner.

Border control on the other side - late night, thunderstorm, frightens silence on the bus. On the board came a serious rebel in a red beret. All women without checking documents were requests to pay 200 CFA. Men had to disembark from the vehicle and after verifying the identity all of us had to pay unofficial arrival tax of 800 CFA (1.2 €). He gave me change back and even didn’t look at my brand new visa. At the time when I asked them to stamp my passport, rebels started laugh. Fact, there are no stamps because the north Ivory Coast officially doesn’t exist on the international scene. This was my second setback this evening.

After an overnight stay at the bus station we walked to the Bouna town, which were very pleased. We met many friendly, smiling and disinterested people. We were afraid to take pictures because rebels could think we are spies. From time to time we have seen United Nations cars, and it seemed to us that the situation is under control.

From the street however, gendarmerie took us out. The traditional questions: who, where, when and why? After the end of the war tourists are something new. They transported us to other military garrison and did exactly the same. Finally they  decided that our visas are issued and accepted by Abidjan, South Ivory Coast, but not by them - the rebels from the north, or as they called themselves the Forces Armees Forces Nouvelles. Finally we talked with the commander who signed the documents allowing us to stay and move around in the zone controlled by them. Rebels were all the time polite to us and didn’t charge us!

Due to transport problems with public transport in this area, we were limited to walk only in the neighborhood. On the next morning we caught a truck going to the Ghana border. Unfortunately during river crossing locals tried to force some illegal border fees, and requested overprice charges for Black Volta River passage. After quite a sharp quarrel with them, they attempted to disembark us from the boat. Finally the magic power had proved to have a paper from the commander, and in result we didn’t pay a single cent.

accommodation –after bargain owner agreed to take 3 people in one room with two beds, and even lowered the price from 6,000 down to 5,000 CFA per room. We had air condition - one of the few during this journey.

transport –river boat border crossing started from demand  5000 CFA per person, for 1 minute ride, 100 meters to the other bank of river. The arguing wasn’t nice, it was necessary to keep the backpacks, because they wanted to dispose them and us as well. We told them that we could pay as much as the locals pay - so they did a spectacular number, money collection, but you could see the local fear of the play. After the magic power of commander paper we got to other side with them and offered 2000 CFA for three of us - but owner with the pride told us "all or nothing" - so, he got nothing.

visa –we got to Ivory Coast on tourist visa Entante (described in Burkina Faso “visa”), valid for five countries. Cost us 20% of 25.000, which is 8 €.

Ivory Coast has its own embassies in Senegal, Guinea, Mali, Burkina Faso and Ghana.