Entered twice, once at 1.08 for a few hours, then from 8.08 till 11.08.07, a total of 3 days,
the currency rate 1 € = 5250 ZK (Zambian Kwacha)

highlights – our original plan was to get from Zimbabwe to Mozambique, but we decided to make some extra way and see as well Zambia and Malawi. There was obviously not just to be in one more country - Victoria Falls we already have seen a week earlier from the Zambian side (details in Zimbabwe). The reason was "South Luangwa National Park." A little frustrated was the fact that previous visits to the parks in Namibia and Botswana haven't resulted in a view lion, cheetah or leopard. From the other backpackers we heard the stories, then there was a better chance to see a wild cat - intuition said that it is worth to trying.

We quickly get to Mfuwe - the base to South Luangwa. We wanted to reach by foot Flat Dog Camp, located a few kilometres from the town, just next to the south bank of Luangwa River (but still outside the park). Locals and Lonely Planet guide strongly discourages hiking - we thought that the warnings are like elsewhere before, afraid of stupid provocation and approching from tourists. However, we waited for transport - and we were surprised when during the way we were passing elephants, hippos and buffaloes. So, I warn do not take individual trips out of Mfuwe.

At 6 am we were ready for walking safari - excited waited until guide loaded the gun - it was a good sign. We were transferred deep into the park and went for a walk there in search of wild game. Our guide began to talk about the footsteps, urine, species, animal behaviour, trees, leaves, pests, etc. This information was interesting, but we rather were interested to see wildlife, not their traces (such information should be addition to the animals and not vice versa). Then the guide showed us from a distance one antelope and zebras, and said that the other animals we rather won't see on the walk trip. He even didn't attempt to trace them, just show some insects. We were angry. Fortunately, after 2 hours jeep with tourists arrived and took us on board. After 3 minutes driving guide saw something in bush and got closer - our eyes looked at miraculously leopard! he was looking for something in the grass, lift his head and looked at us. I got crazy from happiness and the driver gave me some extras in a moment later, when found the lions with three fantastic cubs. Her mother took care of babies, and later escaped into the bushes and the three kittens in funny way tried to follow her footsteps.

How it happens in the animal's world, they are the most active at mornings and evenings. Before the sun goes down once again we chose to have a ride, this time was it a version of "Night Safari" which are rarely offered by other African countries. According to the recommendations we dressed in dark colours (no bright), and our guide was said "no haste, wait in place, even if it seems nonsense". Finally bush began to be alive and a minute later we encountered a large herd of elephants walking towards the river. It was wonderful, I never sat in an open car with no roof and side doors, completely without security, in such close neighbourhood to these massive mammals. We watched as they put a sand of themselves, eating in original way the grass, standing up on two rear legs to reach the higher leaves, cubs used the small trunk to hold the mother's tail, and males showed a power playing the fight. We stayed with them for a little while, and when we wanted to depart, our way was blocked by elephant. When we tried get closer, he was warning us by fan his ears and rising the trunk, giving us to understand that we can't go this way. After a longer time the others playing males elephants have been blocked our way at the back, closing the way of escape. On one side we had trees, on the other hand approximately 15 females with young, and in front staying "en face" to us another big elephant - we were with no way to go. What to do? The driver tried to move, coming at a distance of several meters, but unfortunately the male at the front gave us clearly to understand that this idea was not the best option for him. He even run few steps in our direction, in blood we had adrenaline, we were in the open jeep - guide had to get back, but only for a few meters, because at the back still other males continued to play. The situation became tense, the driver tried to find a gap between him and the female herd. Finally elephant at front get off a bit from the path, and a guide took the full advantage of this - we very quickly were far away from them, making a bit of panic in the herd. It was a good experience.

That wasn't all yet, while later we encountered the two lions with cub, just few days old baby. We did a short break and went for searching again, this time in black dark African night with powerful reflector, operated manually by the guide assistant. He was searching on the bush and trees looking for the reflective predators eyes. Suddenly the driver have seen something on the tree and we went closer - on the branches we saw leopard eating antelope! Predator didn't react for the human presence and strong lights directed at him - it was in a trance of tear to pieces the victim. We were in trance too - the lenses were stolen its privacy. I could believe I'm witnessing so incredible view - it is one of those moments in your life when the dreams come true. I just wanted to see the wild cat even from a distance, and here for 25 minutes I had the unique spectacle. The cat from time to time changed the position or passed to another branch. At the end it fell the last piece of meat - with surprising grace leopard came down from the tree. When it was on the ground leopard looked around and seems surprised with the presence of so many vehicles, didn't grab the meat, just run in the bush. Seconds later, the hyenas came for the food.

Same like at morning, also at evening safari we have seen four of the big five African wildlife - lion, leopard, elephant and buffalo (there is no rhinoceros in the park). In addition of course, there was plenty of antelopes, zebras, crocodiles, giraffes, hippos, etc. I was wondering how come the Big 5? - It appears that hunters in the nineteenth century, identified 5 animals the most difficult to hunt. Taking this into consideration, it should be remembered that it is a black rhinoceros (more aggressive and hiding in the thick bush), and not a larger, easy to trace white rhinoceros.

A visit to the park was a great decision, we were very lucky. In South Luangwa NP we have choices of walking safaris (6-10 am, 30 €), a combination by foot + jeep (6-10 am, 26 €) and the night safari (4-8 pm, 26 €). It is worth to go on night safari, because this attraction is not offered everywhere.

About the capital - centre of Lusaka seemed to me as clean and developed. This may be a result of new law introduced which prohibits the street sale, as well as compulsory painting of all the houses which are located in this part of the city. It is unusual for Africa.

accommodation – we had a mistake, because in lack of the information on accommodation in Mfuwe, we stayed in cheaper hostel in village. As it turned out, this time saving was not worth the lost attractions - I definitely recommend the Flat Dog camp to sleep (tent € 7 per person), some platforms are built high on the trees. From the others travellers stories, we heard about elephants walking between the tents, taking all guests to the restaurant in case of coming buffalos etc. The Flat Dog organized the all trips.

transport – normally travel from Lusaka to the Zimbabwean border costs 33,000 ZK, but we tried hitchhike and probably the fifth driver has agreed to a lower rate. There is a plenty of transport from Lusaka, the buses leave mainly at early morning, our at 4 am. You can sleep the night in the bus, but we used the hospitality of our hitchhike driver and arrived to the bus station at morning - unfortunately we had to fight with the staff for our reserved seats. Ended well, one seat per person.

However, the ride from Chipata to Mfuwe requested fees 40,000 ZK. I do not know whether this is a normal price, or after Zimbabwe all what I found seemed so expensive. We hitchhiked again, in the end we had to pay, but at least less.

For access from Mfuwe to Flat Dogs taxi can be hired, but you better catch the jeep with the park rangers. In August they get to work about 5 am then return after safari about 11 am. The same afternoon - they ride from Mfuwe to Flat Dogs to be ready for a trip at 4pm, and after a safari, about 9 pm, come back home in Mfuwe. If we asked polite, they will take us to the pick-up. Remember, do not walk between Mfuwe and Flat Dog (3 km), it is dangerous because of the wildlife.

Visa– is easily to obtained at the border, single entry costs 25 USD (19 €), double 40 USD and multiple 80 USD. We declared 10 days for length of stay and that the visa was valid for. If you only want to see the Victoria Falls and you are in Zimbabwe, it is possible to get 1-day Zambian visa for 10 USD (7 €).

In Zambia, there are embassies of following African countries: Mozambique, Malawi, Angola, Kenya, Democratic Republic of Congo, South Africa, Tanzania, Zimbabwe, Botswana and Namibia.