English version - Polska wersja - version en Espanol: English version  Wersja polska  English version
  • Home page
  • My travels
  • Unmotorised
    Adventures
  • Australia travel,
    student visa etc
  • Worth visiting (photos)
  • Recommended books, movies etc
  • About me
  • Contact

31.08 till 3.09.07, 3 days, currency rate 1€ = 9 L (Lilangeni)

killed bull

highlights – many people asked - Swaziland? - There's no reason to go, there is nothing. But to see the country doesn't only mean visit the tourist attractions - it is, above all, to know people. And them proved to be interesting - a walk in the street or travel by hitchhike was a pleasure. Fortunately, we had a huge luck get to the annual festival of Umhlanga (Reed Dance), one of the two important in this country. During this event king is choosing another wife from the crowd of dancing virgins. The problem for tourists is the unpredictable calendar event - sometime in the middle of September the Royal family suddenly announces the date for the festival and just a few days remains for handling holiday, hotel bookings, etc.

Thousands of people (not tourists) got here from all over Swaziland and the neighbouring countries to present themselves in front of king. While strolling in the royal Lobamba Valley we had the opportunity to see the preparation - women who have worked on her beauty, brushed the hair, tried the traditional clothing, and also wash themselves in well completely naked, greetings with smile and not embarrassed at all. A much less pleasant experience I had to be a witness of killing the bulls for the party.

Reed DanceFinally came the day of "Reed dance", that mean women in honour of the king brought him the reed. Amazing view where more than 100,000 women with naked breast were dancing. Sympathetic, barefooted king covered with animal leather watched the presentation, as well as the entire group of guards and visitors. Dances lasted for hours, but weren't boring. You could see the lack of festival's organization, so that spontaneity often took over and everything was done with a natural African temperament - with a smile, enthusiasm and freedom. We liked this non-commercial event. The young King Mswati III has already more than a dozen wives, but is not likely to overtake its predecessor Sobhuza II (in 1982 he was the longest rule monarch in the world), who died at the age of 83 and left 120 official wives, and more than 600 children. The sad fact of that non controlled polygamy is the highest HIV infection in the world - officially about 39% people in Swaziland have a positive result.

accommodation – good service, similar to South Africa. Buz Buz does a pick-ups from Legend’s Backpackers (details in transport SA)

town hotel and address N accommodation price per night €/ pp note comments
Lobamba Legend's Backpackers 3 tent 45 L/ person €5.0 kitchen, hot shower
    3     €15.0 (3)    

transport – easy and smooth by public transport and free hitchhiking.

day destination Transport price in L €/ pp duration km
232 Lomahasha (Mozambique border) - Manzini bus 30 L €3.3 2 h 102
232 Manzini - Lobamba bus 6 L €0.7 1 h 25
235 Lobamba - Lavumisa (SA border) 5x hitchhiking - - 3 h 160
        €4.0   287

visa – Swaziland doesn't require visas or most nationalities. In Swaziland we can find Mozambique and SA embassies.

back to top