Entry twice, first after Swaziland, second after Lesotho, between 3.09 till 22.10.07, total 39 days,
currency rate 1€ = 9.25 R (Rand)
highlights – hearing the stories related to crime in South Africa, we entered to the country with fear. But we were quickly in a situation where we had hitchhike. Thus began our adventure and there was a quick stories verification with reality - that wasn't so bad. Of course you should be more careful, especially in certain cities districts and avoid travelling at night - apart from that we felt relatively safe.
"White" residents of this country often took us as hitchhikers and the first contact with a foreign person we found them very nice, strongly one of the most open and helpful people in the world. We were invited for accommodation to the house, where with tasty "braai" (barbecue) we talked for hours about the life and trying to understand the local situation.
Because, unfortunately, the nearby past looks horrify. Apartheid government led the country, which over the years persecuted the black community (though the white minority in relation to the black - 20 to 80%). "Blacks" did not have hardly any rights, they could not even enter city without the permission. Mixed marriage was no allowed, same with interracial sex. Those that managed to get a work permit, they could not attend to the same schools, hospitals, and even as the city's beaches and benches in the park - all were clearly marked for which race they are. There was a lot of Asian as well, mainly Indians and Chinese, here referred to as "coloured." They had slightly better social status, but they were still far to the "white" rights. "Blacks" got their land (16% of the country territory for 80% of the population) called "homelands", where they could be self-sufficient (here the white does not turn up). Of course, in such crowd it was something like the ghetto - hunger and misery. Now in the country is nearly 5 million people infected with HIV/AIDS, the largest number in the world.
After the fall of apartheid in the 90s thanks to attitude of admirable Nelson Mandela there was no bloody revenge. And to say "I forgive" after 27 years spent behind bars is extremely difficult. He aimed to his goal - to see South Africa united where everyone has equal rights. Now still we can clearly felt the two-way white-black tension. So now Dutch and British descendants are discriminated - most of all positions in offices, schools, hospitals, etc. are given first for "Black" candidates. As a result there is a massive emigration from the country, (professors, farmers, etc.) leaving their positions for less prepared for the role black Africans. I hope the economy scenario from Zimbabwe won't repeat here. This subject is very deep and complicated. Probably they need few generations to forget about former race conflicts.
We started our highlights from the attack at Hluhluwe-Imfolozi NP, where we wished to see rhinoceros. Former
poacher, now ranger in the park, skilfully read the animal tracks and soon he took us close to those giants. Unfortunately, we saw only the calm, white rhino. In contrast, shy and aggressive black rhinoceros are much more difficult to find. In addition we had the close encounter with crocodile and buffalo, at a distance of 3 meters from the car window. The official price Safari Dinuzulu Backpackers are: 3h jeep tour - 320 R, 6h - 420 R, a full day with lunch 500 R. This day we finished watching wildlife in Africa - with the main mammal species we haven't seen only cheetahs and gorillas - so we will return.
Durban with its architecture and atmosphere reminded us the Australian cities, so we liked it. After relaxing at hosts home we were heading to the mountains.
Don't count on any practical information in Durban regarding the Drakensberg mountains. They will help you only with resort bookings. In practice you don't need to book anything if you are independent. Topographical maps we found finally in the information centre in Thokozisa Central Drakensberg, near the Winterton town. Here the staff couldn't help us as well, same was in the rangers headquarters at the entrance to the park - even info regarding water, trek duration, routes etc). The owner of Inkasana Lodge, Ed, the experienced mountaineering climber will help you to set a route plan according to your needs, even recommending the route which is not marked on the map.
We chose the Central Drakensberg and soon we went for 5 days trekking starting at Monks Cowl. At the entrance to the park (1480m) fill out the form with information on the group, planned route, duration etc. Pay in advance for your stay (entry fee 20 R, and 30 R for each night declared to stay in the park). You do not need to book any accommodation, place for tent or in a cave is always there. There is more difficult in summer, because there is more tourists, clouds and rain, and in winter less drinking water. In the lower parts the path was clear and well marked, we easily found the Crystal Falls, Blind Man's Corner (2100m), then the Contour Path. From then it would be harder to find the right way without a compass and topographic map. There is an unmarked turn in a narrow grassy path to the Cowl Fork (2100m). We slept in the canyon Ship's Prow Stream (1950m, 1st day - 8h walk, 15 km).
The next day brought some climbing up the canyon with slalom between the stones and bushes, which eventually goes into steep slope to Cathkin Mountain Pass (3300m, take the left side from the spike peak). After climbing up with the heavy backpack the heart rate was high not only from the effort, but also with views picturesque landscapes. From the pass was already an easy walk along the Nkosazana River, which contained freezing water, I carried from the valley a lot of water in vain. On the left side in the rock wall you can find the cave - a good place for accommodation, especially there was a lot of small grass fires (3050m, 2nd day - 9h walk, 8 km). Here worth to take advantage of the setting sun on the Grays Pass, or at morning watch vultures soaring below the escarpment at Vulture's Retreat. From here you can come back downhill, but for our friend in sport shoes who walk with us decent from Grays Pass proved to be technically too difficult - he came back the same way which we came.
3rd day - 10h walk, 20 km, it was a peaceful march at an altitude over 3,000 meters above the deep river canyons on both sides, along the border with Lesotho. Not always we walked on ridge, because sometimes we found the tracks traverse the summit. But I got mistake, one of the path we have turned out wasn't the tourist trail but shepherd's way, small stone towers on the ridge didn't mean the country border - thus inadvertently we missed the planned route, probably before the Didim Cave. It was not until the evening I knew without doubt that the topography of land certainly does not agree with the map - this meant that we had to get illegally into the Lesotho.
During the night our tent was fighting with the wind for survival, and the next day we came back and stubbornly search the Tlanyaku Pass (2750m). But unfortunately even the Basotho shepherds couldn't help much, they desired but language barrier and lack of the map knowledge, we were not able to identify the proper direction. We walked trackless in theoretical bearings and enjoyed the surrounding scenery. Improvisation of a new route in the end brought the effect and we found the "Lost Pass" and with it, the water. As we knew were we are on the map, the stress has gone. Next to the Sphinx, with good weather, we started decent on the vertical cliff by provisional but clear path. The next day at the bottom of the valley the dense fog covered all lovely lookouts (4th day - 10.5 h walk 18 km).
Here unmarked trails form a network of intersections and without the compass would be difficult to reached The Nek (2070m) and after the car park at the Cathedral Peak (1350m, 5th day - 8h walk 21 km). From here by hitchhiking we have returned to our hostel to rest and deserved hot shower. Of course, please submit your return, if the mountain rescue team wouldn't waste the time for searching you. We heard the information that at time when we trek two tourist have burned in a grass fire - so be careful. Probably another interesting option is 62-km, 5-day trekking from Cathedral Peak to Amphitheatre at Royal Natal NP. In the mountains are also popular walks to places where you can see the San people rock drawings.
In the northern Drakensberg we also visited Amphitheatre at Royal Natal NP, with the second highest waterfall in the world (5-cascade, 948 m Tugela Falls). Unfortunately, an extreme drought this year (September) deprived us the view - the waterfall did not contain the water?! Generally, to get to the park is not too easy if you do not have your own car. The Amphitheatre Travellers Lodge arrange transfer to the Visitor Centre (R 20/ person) at any time at morning, pick up is about 5:30 pm. We hitchhiked and were disappointed with lack of assistance in the tourist information - not nice and they didn't have any maps. We have chosen to walk to Gorge, unfortunately the start point is 5 km away. From the beginning of walking you can see the entire Amphitheatre massif, but the closer the more view becomes limited. At the end of the trail (2.5 h walk from the parking lot) we hava a canyon fork and most people back from here. I tried first the right canyon, later the second climbing up the river for more than an hour, but I couldn't see the full view - a huge beautiful semicircular cliff (8km in length). You can go to the top of the Amphitheatre, but in the hostel they won't tell you then to do it you need to start in other place, not from the Natal NP. Hostel organize this tours, and we learned from other travellers - you should go the road R74, passed the Royal Natal NP from the west and north and by road R712 get to Phuthaditjhaba town, where you enter the Senitel parking (2200m). From here you have 2.5 h march to the summit (10-km hiking Senitel trail), slightly up the hill, sometimes use a vertical ladders. I guess that the view from the top of Amphitheatre (around 3000 m) in good weather condition can be impressive. For more ambitious climbing the near Mont-aux-Sources (3282m) summit is also available.
KwaZulu-Natal is a region which is famous from former Zulus battles against the English, and the Dutch descendants (Boers). You can visit the battlefields but try to do it with the guide, otherwise the empty field could be boring. One of the most recommended is Spioenkokop Battlefield near Ladysmith (not to be mislead with Spioenkop Nature Reserve), where the battle took place between Anglo-Boers. And from the summit of the hill our friend was able to see through binoculars the black rhinoceros. We left the South Africa for a while, to enter the Kingdom of Lesotho (description in Lesotho) and then after 10 days return to SA from the Sani Pass.
After a pleasant but tire trek, and after the frustrated visits in the offices (described in the "visa" section), we came to rest to the Wild Coast. Here we relaxed and eat seafood, walking along the cliffs discovering wild beaches of this beautiful, fortunately poor tourist developed part of the country. "Transkei" is inhabited by the Xhosa people, unfortunately, is known from poverty, unemployment and high crime. As usual, we met almost all good moments from the local. In Port St. Johns we did a nice walk from the Second Beach (Silaka Nature Reserve), to the Third and Forth Beach (30 min), and worth climb is as well Heart Break Hill. In Cintsa we used the free activity offer from the backpackers (on Sunday instead of the activity is the free great breakfast, and on Thursday visit the African local school). Just one more stop in Port Alfred, where we finally felt outside of mass tourism. It is also a good place for the penetration of empty beaches (especially to the East) in wild coast. In East London we stuck due to the visa extension, but we spent the time with host family which we met in Lesotho. The worth tourist attractions is the municipal museum. The fish, which is thought to be extinct 50 million years ago - here in 1938 caught in the net, for the biologist that was the world sensation - now you can see the fish behind the glass. Another interesting fact is the oldest human footprints in the world.
Between the coastal towns we hitch or often used the lift offered by other backpackers that have a free place in the car. The locals often took us at home for hospitality, shower, accommodation and diner was a part of facilities, sometimes they took us around showing some isolated places. The "Black" villages were quite similar in its primitiveness and openness of people from those previously seen in other parts of Africa. Even night time visit to the township in big city has not had any negative experiences. We noticed also that not all "White" are living in fear, in house with the great electricity wall, dogs and guards, and the gun in the drawer. Many of those who have taken us as hitchhikers, did not have any of these things in house, they didn't afraid of revenge, because they do not have anything wrong on the conscience. We were also surprised when they told us that during apartheid they were frighten by the "White" government and the police, including threatening, deaf telephones, inspections and looking for evidence that they help to "Blacks", which of course was a criminal offense. But we met as well those who still have the lack of respect for the "Black" (it is often associated with the current lack of security). We were also surprised that some "White" doesn't speak English well, but they used Afrikaans language, which is very closely related to Dutch.
Famous Garden Route - Tourism here has been developed at a higher level, but this does prevent to discover a beautiful coastline. In Plettenberg Bay I recommend to go on Robben Peninsula (Robberg Nature and Marine Reserve), just 8 km from the town by paved road. However, if you do not have a car you can arrange transport from the hostel, or like we chose a pleasant walk (1.5 h) - from the centre of town we walk downhill to the hotel parking. Just South from it extends beautiful sandy beach for 5 km. At the end use the last third steps up to get to the park gates. On the peninsula we can choose 3 loops, a short, medium or long (11 km), all without the possibility of refill water or food. I recommend to visit the entire peninsula, which is a minimum of 3 hours, and with easy enjoying peace with photos took us 5 hours. Please note that the longest loop is not recommended for children and good shoes are useful to climb the rocks. Also keep in mind the fact that one segment is recommended to pass only during the low tide. Robben Peninsula, in addition to wonderful, sandy beaches, cliffs, also offers good views for the seals colonies, dolphins, and also with a bit of luck whales (July - November).
On the Garden Route in Knysna we have seen the Big Tree, which is huge, but this attraction you can missed. An interesting fact is, however, that in these forests live a wild leopard and forest elephants.
We got inland to semi desert zone Little Karoo. We were surprise and delight with the view of snowy mountain peaks surrounding the Oudtshoorn town, the image like from New Zealand. This town has three main attractions - the first is interesting caves, second the ostrich farms, and third the Widlife Ranch. Ranch Wildlife advertises as Cheetah Sanctuary, which is interesting, but also has other attractions such as "touch the Bengal tiger" for 300 R. Tiger in Africa? I don't care if they help cheetahs but torture the tigers - I reject their offer. Their other very popular attraction is diving with crocodiles (are you in a cage). If you want to help a good organization, I propose to choose a Meerkat watching. This is a place where comes the BBC or National Geographic to shot a movies about meerkats in their natural environment without any side affects (at sunrise 300 R, sunset 200 R, possible 20% discount from the backpackers).
In the Cango Caves you have two options: standard (1h) or adventure (1.5 h). With Paradise Backpackers you can get discount tickets, for the adventure version normally you pay 66 R and for us the price is 59 R, for us (ostrich farm 45 R, 35 R with discount). The problem is to get to the caves, as they are 30 km away from the town - but again hostel offers several options, caves combined with ostrich farms. Option A (200 R) is they take you to the top of the Swartberg Pass, and you can ride downhill by bicycle to the caves, then you have a time to visit a cave, and they take you further to the ostrich farm. From there, the last 12 km, you cycle back after a visit the farm (total 54 km cycling). Option B (150 R) is they take you to caves, from where you cycle back through the ostrich farm, a total of 30 km. Version C (100 R) is only transfer to ostrich farm, from where you back by bicycles 12 km. Another option is without a bicycle, then you get transfer to caves and farms without the bike (60 R). All the options don't include the entry fee.
We decided to travel with other travellers we met in the hostel, that was a lot cheaper (I mean for free), because they went there anyway, so they gave us a lift. Cango Cave, despite its commercialization, does impress anyway, has an interesting lit, huge nice exposed halls, the world's largest stalagmites. You can even crawl in narrow underground tunnels (up to 28cm diameter).
Then the time came for the farm to get knowledge of ostriches from close. We didn't like Cango Farm, looked a very commercial, so we chose another, Chandelier Ostrich Farm Game (40 R, but with the discount from the hostel 22 R) on the way to George. In Oudtshoorn the choice is big, because here is the world's largest ostrich farm concentration. It was an interesting and entertaining presentation (1h), then I knew that you can stand on ostrich egg and won't break; that is the volume of 24 hen eggs; the bird skin is the second strongest in the world (after kangaroo); that is the second fastest animal on land (after cheetah); also very durable, it can run at a speed of 80 km/h for distance up to 3 km. To encounter in wilderness doesn't hide its head in the sand, rather runs away, but it can also attack and easily rip you off by claws. These wonderful non-flight birds are also very funny - as soon as it stood next to fence they bite me in the head, arm, or ear, with the usual stupid expression on the face (good I couldn't see mine). And their long neck, you can bend it like a flower stem. You could also hold in hands the baby ostrich. I decided to get a ride on ostrich - that was great, even though I felt down twice. Note - the farm do not allow visitors the ostrich ride after the rain. This is due to the risk of fall down the bird on a slippery surface. If you want to have a ride you should come there right away in the morning after a dry night. If the rain falls try to wait as late as possible, it is likely that the sun will dry the land at afternoon. At the end of tour there is of course an interesting souvenir shop, among others you can buy empty egg from 25 R for plain till 250 R with African drawings.
From Oudtshoorn we travelled through the vineyards (Route 62) we came to the very tip of Africa - Cape Agulhas. We slept in Struisbaai and to the cape we had 7km, unfortunately rather by boring paved road (1.5 h walk), for lack of a sandy beach. You can visit the lighthouse (10 R) or simply enjoy a moment that you are on the Africa edge. The table here shows that there is the place where Atlantic Ocean meet the Indian Ocean, but according to other sources the real ocean currents meets on the Cape of Good Hope.
In Struisbaai in Cape Agulhas Backpackers we went by small 6-persons pontoon, for a whale watching. Southern Right Whales played close to us - babies gave shows with the tail, and the older ones were matching (unique views). From others backpackers stories and photos we knew that the whales sometimes get to a pontoon at a distance of few meters away from the pontoon, so that you can touch them! We have seen them up to 50 meters, which was fantastic, but I wish to have a bit more luck. The owner is not only cheaper then others tour operators, but also is nice and professional.
A trip we liked so much that the next day we took sea kayak in action, in the hope of meeting the whales again. That was a result of a few stories and photos from the backpackers - so I thought that worth a try. The kayak's owner encouraged us to use it, although the sea was rough. The water sprinkled us when we cut the waves, we paddled hard, because the current push us back towards the shore. After an hour of intensive work we have begun to be weak. In addition to the one lost dolphin any other aquatic creatures weren't shown to us, so we decided to return. However, kayaking with the wave has proved to be technically more difficult and we had a problem to maintaining the balance. Finally we capsized - loose life jacket get on almost on the face, and the force of waves didn't allow us to sit back in. 
I kept the kayak and Ewelina tried to get in, but the attempt ended with another capsize - twisting plastic hull pulled out the paddles from my hand - I had to swim back to catch them. In this time Ewelina fought with the canoe, but the next big wave pulled out our kayak and we lost it from the view. There was no choice - with one hand I kept the life jacket, preventing its slide off, and by the second one I kept strongly the two paddles. I used the legs to increase the drifting in the almost invisible beach direction, and a few waves ahead I have seen my girl doing the same thing. After more than 20, maybe 30 minutes fight with the nature the ocean has thrown us out on the shore. We where exhausted and frozen, still in shock. I found the kayak and pulled it along a beach, not be able logically assess the distance. However, it came a time to end the torture and soon we were sitting under the hot shower for over half an hour. I realized that probably I done the most foolish mistake during this journey - with no enough experience in rough conditions I sailed into the sea. We were lucky that we went all from this oppression - I paid for that with 40°C evening fever. For sure next time I go I will attach the paddle to the kayak, life jacket firmly tie to the body and practise the capsize situation. The most important - find out whether the sea push you to the shore or pull you out from the coast (at least we did that).
Hermanus is the world capital for whale watching from the land. There are a lot whales very close to the shore. People using the walking paths and has a lot of lookouts to make the watching easier. You can also swim to the whales by kayak (250R/ person, the minimum distance is 100m), but we already had a reason to not try again the kayaks. However, our main goal here was to see another sea giant - Great White Shark. That's not all, we found ourselves in the water with him, of course protected in the steel cage. Amazing feeling - we stood under the water with mask just few meters from the 4 meters long predator, who attacked thrown to him fish as bait. It is expensive trip, but certainly worth the adrenaline. 795 R was the cheapest offer from Shark Diving Unlimited, in addition, if booking a trip through the Hermanus Backpackers (hostel in Gansbaai and in Kleinbaai offers discounts as well) you get one night free of charge in the dormitory, or 80 R discount on accommodation in the other room. In addition, hostel offers the cheapest transfer to Kleinbaai (50 R return, 53 km one way) from where the majority of operators starts. Most of them leave twice per day, early morning and around noon. Unfortunately, some of the trips are often cancelled because the rough ocean condition, so do it as soon you can. The company welcomes you to the breakfast and the drink, you can read the brochure and watch films about sharks. Later we board on the boat and leaving, and when they find the predator they put the steel cage into the water. 
The problem is that the trip is less expensive but more people on deck (in our case over 20). Fortunately for us, more than half of the participants were not interested in entering into the water - once with cold (take warm windproof clothes), second due to the sea sickness, third - for the majority sharks look safer from the distance (I don't agree). In our case were 5 to 6 people at time in the cage, but all were happy as we divided to 2 groups only, I spent more than 30 minutes under water. You will get wetsuit, shoes, heavy belt and mask. We stood in the cage up to breast in water and on command "under the water, shark on right" (or left) we took breath and plunged into the water watching this creature, even from a 1 meter distance. The company promised spend on the sea at least 4 hours (but we were only 3h 15min), just two 15 minutes shifts in the cage, and on the way back we visited for 5 minutes the island with the seal colony. On the return we got hot soup and drinks, then they show you DVD movie recorded during the tour, available to purchase for 400 R. If you wouldn't see any shark during the trip (apparently rare), the company offers a free trip next day.
A few days later we got on the other side of the peninsula, which in practice means the conversion from the warm Indian Ocean to freezing Atlantic. There I dived in majestic "kelp forest", arising stems from the floating marine vegetation. A moment later was even more beautiful - we dived with the seals which were peeping at us while performing underwater acrobatics, what generally look fantastic. You do not need to be open water diver, because Ewelina just snorkel and look at that wonderful show from the sea surface. The event took in water 30-40 minutes, price including renting the diving equipment 300 R per day (wetsuit must be thick, because water temperature is 10°C), clothing and equipment for snorkelling 180 R/ day, every dive from the boat 150 R, diving permission (purchased at the post office) for 45 R (monthly) or 65 R (annual). In this scenario two dives cost 645 R and 330 R for one snorkel (for snorkelling dive permission wasn't required). The Coast to Coast advertise travel agency on 289 Long St, but the stuff there wasn't nice and helpful, so we found the Pro Divers at 88B Main Rd, Sea Point. y Every day they dive in different place, so you must contact them to book the trip in the day you can go (seals are in Hout Bay). I decided to take two dives, as it goes for a small extra charge. Unfortunately, searching for wreck was impossible due to tragic underwater visibility so the instructor failed to search (I got refund).
Time came for Cape Town famous from an excellent reputation - we had the high expectations. And we weren't disappointed - I think Cape Town is one of the most beautiful cities in the world. It's located on a peninsula with mountains in the central part. Table Mountain (1086m) is extremely photogenic and makes a big impression. You can get there by local minibus from the city and get off at Kloof Nek. From here you have several minutes walk. Cable car to the top cost 65 R one way. Alternatively you can climb to the top, shall be in this area more than 300 paths. Probably the simplest one seems to be Plateklip Gorge. From the lower cable car station is a couple minutes walk uphill, then left traverse and the first (here you can drive to the parking lot) turn right and climb steeply up, shouldn't take more than 2 hours. However, at present safety on the route is not the best one, 
as we have read about a dozen robberies (no murders). Find out just before start about the latest situation or join a larger group. I decided to climb without valid documents and camera. I started on the other side - near Lundadno and after 3.5 hours of fast march (officially 7 h) with the strong wind and mist I found myself at the summit. To my surprise, I was there by myself - a cable car was closed due to strong wind.
Great view on the town, but I prefer this landscape from the bottom, with the mountain in the background. One of the best views is from the water, and we had the opportunity to admire it during the trip to the Robben Island, which for many years was a prison for apartheid political opponents. Here we saw the cell where Nelson Mandela was imprison for so many years, later the President of South Africa. This tour should be booked with few days in advance in tourist information, in agencies or in hostels. In our case, there were no vacancies - alternatively we could wait in a special queue in the Waterfront "Nelson Mandela Gateway", awaiting for a situation that someone is not shown. Free seats are resold just 2 minutes before departure. If it fails, then wait another 60 minutes for the next ferry, the last one depart at 3 pm. The tour price includes transfer by ferry (2x 30min), the island tour by coach with guide (45 min), visit the prison with a former political prisoner (30 min) who now working as a guide. Finally we have free time around half an hour. I recommend to go on Penguin Boardwalk where you can see the penguins, or go to the prison section "A" where prisoners had written their stories.
In Cape Town we stopped at the previously met people (our hitchhiker hosts), who as a rich family unusually invited us to stay in their villa. So we stood in a luxurious and safe district - the room had a ocean view. We also recommend a trip to very picturesque Chapman's Peak Drive (24 R fee, no bicycles allowed) in the South. The road is traversing the peak with a lot of lookouts for the bay, where you can see the whales as well. We went there on foot from Hout Bay, where you can reach the bus to the city. Thanks to our lovely hosts we met other interesting non-touristy places and we got into the local environment. In South Africa is an extremely popular "braai" (grill), where family and friends together grill the meat. I must say that they are the champions - excellent food! Another indispensable part of local culture is rugby. And we just followed the world championships at this time and got happy then representation of South Africa came to the final. Needless to describe what atmosphere was in the city centre when Africans won the final game - we had an opportunity to celebrate with them their success on the main Long Street. Here you can buy as well a lot of interesting souvenirs, there is a lot of sellers so you can easily bargain hard.
We went to visit Simonstown, famous from penguin colony (30 min walk from the railway station). There are designated wooden paths for tourists (entrance from Foxy Beach). There are a lot of penguins, so close to you, even in the shade under the tourist path. Careful - they may bite. In entrance to the Boulders Beach (one ticket for two different entries points) you can enter to the water with penguins - unfortunately we were during the penguins fast when they lived from accumulated fat reserves, so they did not jump into the water. You can see the birds for free as well, just cross 100 m via the parking from the entry South-East admission 
point. There is a small gate to the wild beach. So we had the opportunity to be just next to those funny small animals - they are great. After this attraction we hitch already to the final point on our journey. Without own transport it is not big problem to visit Simonstown by train. In fact I saw no difference between I and II class. More difficult is with visit to Cape Town NP, because there is no public transport. It remains your own car, bike (25 km from Simonstown), hitchhiking, or a tour from Cape Town (385 R) including the Penguins in Simonstown and tour in the park.
In Cape Town NP we first visited the lighthouse (instead walk you can reach a tourist train from parking) and then the second lighthouse near by. View of the cliffs and the sea is beautiful. You must return the same way (total 3 km) and just before the car park turn left and take the path for a further 2 km to nostalgic beauty rock called Cape of Good Hope. Of course you can drive there by car as well. This short section between Cape Point and Cape of Good Hope was a great farewell to the wonderful African views, including encounter a huge snake and ostrich sitting on its eggs. We stood at the Cape of Good Hope finishing our trip - that was beautiful.
| town | site | price in R | €/ pp | duration | price | comments |
Hluhluwe |
Huhluwe NP car safari |
300 R/ per | €32.4 | 3,5 h | worth | car and guide |
Central Drakensberg |
entry to the park |
20 R | €2.2 | 1 day | worth | |
every next night in park |
3x 30 R | €9.7 | 3 nights | |||
North Drakensberg |
entry to Royal Natal NP |
25 R | €2.7 | 1 day | ok | |
East London |
East London museum |
7 R | €0.8 | 2 h | ok | footprints, fish |
Plettenberg Bay |
Robben Penisula Reserve |
25 R | €2.7 | 1 day | worth | nature |
Oudtshoorn |
Cango Caves |
59*R | €6.4 | 1 h | ok | adventure option |
ostrich farm |
22 R | €2.4 | 1,5 h | worth | ||
Struisbaai close Cape Agulhas |
whale watching |
150 R | €16.2 | 2 h | worth | |
hire a kayak |
100R/ 2per | €5.4 | half day | worth | ||
Gansbaai |
cage diving with shark |
715 R | €77.3 | 4 h | super | breakfast, drinks, boat, equipment |
Cape Town |
Robben Island |
150 R | €16.2 | 2,5 h | ok | ferry, bus, guide |
diving with seals |
450 R | €48.6 | 30 ' | super | boat, equipment |
|
diving permit |
45 R | €4.9 | 7 days | |||
Simonstown |
penguin reserve |
25 R | €2.7 | 1 h | ok | can be for free next to parking |
Cape of Good Hope Nature Reserve |
entry fee |
55 R/ person | €5.9 | half day | worth | Cape of Good Hope |
| €236.5 |
accommodation – the best practical budget book guide with attractions and accommodations is "Coast to Coast." This is far better alternative than the Lonely Planet in terms choice and current fees. It covers in detail South Africa's most popular places and some of them in the neighbouring countries. You can get it for free almost in every hostel or tourist information.
South Africa has already a high standard even in the cheapest hostels. They are well organized - everywhere was access to the kitchen where we could prepare our meal (one sensation in the Inkasana Lodge - "Please do not wash the dishes after use, we have the staff to do it"). In some of them was free tea or coffee, sometimes was included breakfast in the price. Everywhere was hot shower. Hostels usually were a good source of information, or the tour operators which organize the trips or different attractions. Typically backpackers equipment is also TV, DVD, paid internet (not everywhere), laundry service, swimming pool, bar and restaurant.
We slept mostly in tent because it was the cheapest option, around 45-60 rand per night per person. Dormitory were usually about 20-30 R more expensive, and double rooms for a further 20-30 R extra. The payment usually was requested when leaving, including all attractions which we used. I was also impressed with credit trust in backpackers, we often could use the self service fridge or bar, and just make a note on piece of paper what we took.
| town | hotel and address | N | accomm-odation | price per night | €/ pp | note | comments |
Hluhluwe NP |
Hluhluwe Backpackers |
1 | tent | 50*R/ per | €5.4 | 8 | normally 70 R, tea |
Central Drakensberg |
Inkasana Backpackers |
2 | tent | 60 R/ per | €6.5 | 8 | transfer to the park, tea, Ed - mountaineering expert |
North Drakensberg |
Amphitheatre Travellers Lodge |
2 | tent | 45 R/ per | €4.9 | 8 | transfer to park 20 R, TV, DVD |
Port St. Johns |
Ikaya Le Intlabati Lodge, Second Beach |
2 | tent | 45 R/ per | €4.9 | 6 | power-flower owner, he is ok |
West Cintsa |
Buccaneer's Backpackers |
2 | tent | 45 R/ per | €4.9 | 8 | tea, TV, kayak, activities, paid internet |
Port Alfred |
Willows Caravan Park, next to bridge on the main road |
1 | tent | 50 R/ per | €5.4 | 5 | no kitchen |
Plettenberg Bay |
Albergo for Backpackers |
2 | tent | 1-night 45R/ per, 2-night 40R/ per | €4.6 | 8 | tea, fire camp, TV, lockers |
Oudtshoorn |
Backpackers Paradise |
2 | tent and dorm | 50 R/ per | €5.4 | 8 | normally dorm 80 R, tea, ostrich egg for breakfast, TV, paid internet |
Struisbaai |
Cape Agulhas Backpacker |
2 | tent | 50 R/ per | €5.4 | 7 | breakfast, tea, DVD |
Hermanus |
Hermanus Backpackers |
2 | dorm | 80 R/ per | €8.6 | 8 | breakfast, DVD, no camping, paid internet |
Klainbaai close to Gansbaai |
Marine Guest House |
1 | room | 200*R/ room | €10.8 | 7 | normally room 260 R, table pool, no camping, TV |
Cape Town |
Blue Backpackers |
1 | Dorm | 75 R/ per | €8.1 | 7 | no camping, tea, TV |
in wild |
3 | tent, cave | |||||
hospitality |
16 | ||||||
| 39 | €120.1 (20) |
transport – we decided to hitchhike and it was sensational. In general in Africa we didn't see difference between any races. Here in SA the rule was simple - if "Black" stopped for you, 80% chance you will be pay for lift (though not always!). Just be careful to whom you get in, if instinct tells you no, deny. "White" people if they stop it were usually something more than just a ride - in most cases they proved to be extremely nice, helpful and hospitable. Thanks to them we have seen a country bit from inside. Hitchhiking in South Africa is in the higher risk group. But if you do not hitch at night, close to big cities, alone, do not get to the car with several people etc, all should end up on your thoughts. So we could manage.
Alternatively you can use the local minibuses, affordable prices, drivers are honest but a bit speeding, people all right, etc. However, if the comfort is priority, use the long-distance coaches such as Greyhound (www.greyhound.co.za) - quick and safe, but not the cheapest.
Even more expensive, but the most popular among young backpackers is the option to use the Buz Bus company (www.bazbus.com), which offers minibus network close to the main attractions, they do drop off and pick-up from the door of your chosen hostel (not from all). Buz bus version disadvantage is required to book departure pick-up with a minimum 2 days in advance. Some of attractions depend of the weather condition, so it can be a problem. For me the ride with loud backpackers group is not a plus, we won't meet the locals. In addition, it is not the cheapest option. Sample price from Johannesburg to Cape Town via Drakensberg cost 2,640 R (€ 285), with the possible hop on and hop off on the way.
Driving from Cape Town to Hermanus the recommended route is on the coast, not the main one.
| day | destination | transport | price in R | €/ pp | duration | km |
| 235 | Golela (Swaziland border) - Hluhluwe | 2x hitchhiking | - | - | 1,5 h | 115 |
| 236 | Hluhluwe NP safari | car | data in highlights | 3,5 h | 40 | |
| 236 | Hluhluwe NP - Durban | 2x hitchhiking + jeep | 0 + 10 R | €1.1 | 6 h | 294 |
| 238 | Durban - Kwazulu Natal province - Durban | jeep | - | - | 12 h | 567 |
| 241 | Durban - Pietermaritzburg | minibus | 35 R | €3.8 | 1 h | 81 |
| 241 | Pietermaritzburg - Central Drakensberg | 4x hitchhiking | - | - | 2 h | 179 |
| 242+246 | getting to park + return | jeep + hitchhiking | - | - | 10' + 1 h | 6 + 58 |
| 247 | Central Drakensberg - North Drakensberg | 3x hitchhiking | - | - | 3 h | 70 |
| 248 | Hostel Amphitheatre - Royal Natal NP + return | 3x hitchhiking | - | - | 2x 30' | 64 |
| 249 | H. Amphitheatre -Fouriesburg (Lesotho border) | 2x hitchhiking | - | - | 5 h | 150 |
| Stay in Lesotho | ||||||
| 258 | Sani Top Pass (Lesotho border) - Port St. Johns | 2x hitchhiking | - | - | 6 h | 317 |
| 260 | Port St. Johns - Cintsa | car | - | - | 4 h | 275 |
| 262 | Cintsa - East London | car | - | - | 30' | 38 |
| 265 | East London - Port Alfred | car | 20 R | €2.2 | 1,5 h | 140 |
| 266 | Port Alfred - Plettenberg Bay | hitchhiking | - | - | 5 h | 423 |
| 268 | Plettenberg bay - Harkeville | hitchhiking | - | - | 20' | 20 |
| 269 | Harkeville - Oudtshoorn | jeep + 2x hitchhiking | - | - | 3 h | 138 |
| 270 | Oudtshoorn | car | - | - | day | 84 |
| 271 | Oudtshoorn - Struisbaai | 2x hitchhiking | - | - | 9 h | 347 |
| 272 | Struisbaai - Cape Agulhas + return | car + walk | - | - | 10' + 1,5h | 2x 7 |
| 272-273 | Struisbaai whale watching safari x2 | pontoon and kayak | data in highlights | 2 h + 2 h | 5 + 3 | |
| 273 | Struisbaai - Hermanus | 3x hitchhiking | - | - | 2 h | 130 |
| 275 | Hermanus - Kleinsbaai (Gaansbai) | 2x hitchhiking | - | - | 1,5 h | 53 |
| 277 | cruise for cage diving with the shark | boat | data in highlights | 4 h | 15 | |
| 277 | Kleinsbaai - Cape Town | 6x hitchhiking | - | - | 5 h | 185 |
| 278-282 | Cape Town diving, Robben Island, Table Mt. | pontoon, boat, walk | data in highlights | 1h+1h+3h | 4+22+6 | |
| 283 | Cape Town - Simonstown | train I class | 12 R | €1.3 | 1 h | 40 |
| 283 | Simonstown - Cape Point | 2x hitchhiking | - | - | 1 h | 25 |
| 283 | Cape Point - Cape of Good Hope | walk | - | - | 1 h | 2 |
| city transport | bus | 41 R | €4.4 | - | - | |
| €12.8 | 3910 | |||||
visa – I hope that someone planning a trip will avoid similar mistake on my example. It began well, the Poles do not need a visa to South Africa! But not everything is so beautiful - the entire developed world has a right to stay up to 90 days, Polish up to 30. What's worse, even after stay in Lesotho (9 days in our case) you won't receive the next 30 days, but that will count on your SA visa! This procedure also applies for returning from Swaziland, but when coming back from other neighbouring countries you will get a new visa. So we after re-entering to South Africa from Lesotho, had the right to stay just for 6 days. First we attack the immigration office. And problems occurred - first you need to wait to issue a new visa for two weeks and you need a flight ticket. After long negotiations we went to internet cafe and made a fake electronic ticket, and with further pressure we finally got the visa after three days waiting (46 €). Unfortunately valid only for a month, even though the printed flight ticket was few days after the visa expire - bureaucrats!
In South African you can find diplomatic consulates and embassies from different African countries: Mozambique (Pretoria, Cape Town, Jo'burg, Durban, Nelspruit), Gabon, Angola, Botswana (Pretoria, Cape Town, Jo'burg), Lesotho (Pretoria, Jo'burg, Durban), Namibia (Pretoria, Cape Town), Swaziland (Pretoria, Jo'burg), Zimbabwe (Pretoria, Cape Town, Jo'burg), Malawi and Zambia.