15.08 till 31.08.07, 16 days, currency rate 1 € = 34,3 M (New Metical)

highlights – we get to Mozambique in an unusual way - together with fishermen we crossed a lake on the sail boat, where we took off on the wild beach. No passport control, no one around. We walked for 3 hours through isolated houses on the shore and finally we reached the first bigger village Cobue, where we did the border formalities. The lake had non-commercial relaxing atmosphere and only need to warn against swimming - as some micro snails that can cause disease called bilharzias. An additional problem may be crocodiles, but we swam and seems to be safe. Remember, swimming is not recommended in the river mouth and standing waters, otherwise everything should be fine. Just one more purely preventive warning - northern Mozambique during the recent civil war was long time controlled by rebels group called Frelimo, so is the chance of hitting land mines. So, avoid walking in the unknown bush area near the bridges, schools, abandoned buildings and any buildings that may have military significance.

Hitch, trucks and trains, that is the way to travel in the provincial part of this interesting country with a great mountain landscapes. To the Indian Ocean coast we arrived in a few days. When travelling in non-touristy places we have noticed again a difference between Portuguese colonies and others, mainly French and English. Colonizers which stayed in power after Vasco da Gama were probably cruel and firm, but it seems to me that they left in the local mentality specific way to be relaxed and easy going. As in Angola and Guinea-Bissau, people clearly distinguished by a friendly attitude to us. You may also be given attention to women with white "painted" face, called "musiro", which supposed to improve beauty of the skin and health properties, and to covered against the sun.

Even in popular among tourists Ihla de Moçambique we felt well, and walk around the island with well-preserved colonial buildings has not been disturbed by the sellers. At present the island is a fishing village, is still full of life and rich history going back to XV century - preserved cornices, arches, columns, sophisticated ruined cemeteries and churches, narrow streets, stone houses, etc. On the northern edge of the island is fort Fortaleza Sao Sebastiao (entry 100 M), and inside is the oldest building (from 1522) in the Southern Hemisphere built by the Europeans, Chapel of Nossa Senhora de Baluarte. However, you can work around Fort at low tide, and through the walls look at the chapel. The only serious subject to Ihla residents (as well as to the most Africans) is that they tolerate life in such a litter environment - rubbish are everywhere, on the streets, beaches, etc. You can only justify it by local lack of environmental awareness and the fact that in Africa for centuries all rubbish were put behind the window, and those 100% organic were disappearing within a few days. The case however is very different when you are operating with plastic or metal.

By paid hitchhiking we reached the Villanculos where the wide white sandy beach asks for the rest, and Turquoise Water welcome for activity. Bazaruto Archipelago is tropical paradise - clean blue water, white sand, coral reef, colourful birds and ideal underwater conditions. This is one of the places where you have a big chance to see rare dugong. It is a mammal living in the water and from all creatures is the most related to the elephant, reaching up to 3 meters in length. There are also dolphins, green sea turtles, unique Nile crocodiles (on the islands!, because once there was a land bridge), and other miracles. We had not much luck to see the wildlife, but worth a try. Tourist trips are relatively expensive, such from Baobab backpackers half-day motorboat trip to the nearest (12 km) and most popular island Magaruque for 800 - 1000 M per person. So we went to the harbour and talk with the fishermen - the old sail boat didn't look safe, the more that a little strange and no perfect sober crew established the sail up side down, and when they tried to correct the error, dropped wooden mast directly at my head - lucky I got only the bruise. Then was better and we sailed across the sea (15 km one way, first in 3.5 h, return 2h) on Bazzaruto Archipelago. On the Isle Benguera we snorkelled in nice and warm water (unfortunately no coral reef, supposedly better in terms of underwater views is the Magaruque Island), and then we grilled on the beach barracudas purchased from local fishermen. On the island no one checked our tickets to the park, which apparently need to purchase on mainland in advance (200 M pp).

Tofo get on the world map thanks to its ideal diving conditions - warm tropical waters of the Indian Ocean, colourful coral reef and diverse animal life. My goal was to see the huge manta ray, but to increase the chance of such a encounter I had to dive deeper then PADI Open Water allow (you must also watch out for strong currents). Well, I had to learn the theory and take at least one shallow descent - I got into the deep sea and was penetrating its magic places, wondering the underwater world. The following day I was allow to dive up to 24 meters, where caves, gorges, and rich marine reef and fauna let me enjoy that moments. I do not even know all names of those fish, such as scorpionfish, tigerfish, lionfish, stonefish, butterflyfish, clownfish, types of eels, jellyfish, and dozens of other fairy-tale lives. Rays also came, but unfortunately only the smaller one (sting ray). I chose Tofo Scuba company, they were cheaper than Diversity Scuba. Sample price: 77 € for a 1-day diving course for beginners, theory classes in the pool, then going into ocean up to 10 m; 308 € for the course PADI "Open Water".

After a number nights spent in a small, cramped and stuffy hostels - we took a holiday from the travel and in Tofo we stopped in the tourist budget complex called Fatima 's Nest backpackers. Built on extensive dune close to the beach, has a bar, a cheap and delicious restaurant, music, information, clean bathrooms, kitchen for personal use, wooden bungalows, and the perfect campsite for us. At evening we were eating seafood, drinking the wine and enjoyed the relaxing ocean view with the full moon. It was good, and we did not know yet that the best is still to come. At morning we board the boat with mask and fins and went behind the barrier reef. Here we could watch the whales, but they were not our goal. We continued the search and in one moment I heard the command - "jump into the water, the right side, quickly" - so I jumped first and when looked down I wanted get out off water straight away scary of collision - just a few meters under me the giant, more than 10-meters shark whale was passing. He looked like the spacecraft, which with grace drift in space. Immediately I turned and swam next to him, to the world biggest fish. Sometimes I overtook him or kept a couple of meters from the side. I can not describe the feelings of the moment, because it was more than just a wonderful experience. For more than 10 minutes I used my fins to stay with company of this shy shark, I could look into his eyes and 2-meter mouth, where some small fish were hiding. Once he dived a little deeper I swam over him and admire his body covered with gray stripes and white spots. After a while other boat members joined me, and when shark got bored, simply slowly dived, and we stayed on the surface still trying remember the beauty of the passing moment. That day we had a few more similar encounters. Here is the largest colony of whale sharks in the world - scientists counted 267 over a distance of 6-7 km, there are all year round (although some book guides says - the best is a summer season. I was in winter and have nothing to complain.

To Maputo we got a bit tired after a night spent sitting on backpacks in over crowded coach. That was a time to say goodbye to Magda, who hurry on a plane to Poland. We thank her for the company and then I and Ewelina back to the track to the direction of African south cape.

accommodation – forget about the Lonely Planet "Southern Africa" 2007 edition. The prices given by girl who wrote Mozambique may be true, but they are not for backpackers. Already in the first village Cobue author sends you to the nearest hotel more than 5 km, and of course it is a luxury one. We found 3 decent cheap hostels just above the lake at the town centre.

In Ihla de Mozambique, I recommend stay in Casuarina Camping in Lumbo, the village on the mainland just 200 meters north of the bridge. Walking to the island over the bridge takes about 30 minutes. Friendly owner, beautiful location on the beach, fantastic food, a small fee for camp fire.

We heard about some thief accidents in the popular Baobab Beach Backpackers in Vilanculos. Nothing happened to us, but actually at night campsite has almost no light, and access to the camp has everyone (open gate), because there is a bar as well. On the islands of Bazaruto the cheap Ponta Dundo Camp no longer exists.

Fatima's Nest in Tofo is a very popular and loud, but then we just needed a bit of entertainment and we remember it as a nice stay, although we met people who have moved out to more quite camping.

transport – there is no problem if you use the main national road No. 1, from Maputo to the north along the coast. Side trips may be more problematic. Our biggest problem we had in Cobue, where you can sail south when someone go there, and is it also a very long journey. Another option is the road, but it is rarely used, so we can get stuck. However, we managed to catch the truck with the tourist tour. But we had a lot of problems to get on the rough damaged track, so we had to get off many times, dig and push, particularly in the pass by the small wooden bridges, which simply broke under the pressure from a big truck. We passed lucky all of them, but the tour guide announced that their company is going this way first and last time - because what to do with group of elderly tourists in the middle of the jungle, when the truck get finally stuck for good. From Metangula the road was already better.

About ferry across the Lake Niassa (Malawi), you can read in the "highlights" and "transport" in Malawi section.

In Cuamba begins railway and train to Nampula departs on Wednesdays, Fridays and Saturdays at 5 am, coming back from Nampula in other days except Mondays. Tickets can be purchased on site from about 3 pm, second class (the first doesn't exist) is sold out immediately. To take a seat on the train in economy class, queue starts already forming from 2 am. Those who came just before departure had to fight to find half hanging-standing place.

By using the national road No 1 you can move quickly. There is no problem with hitchhiking. In most cases you must pay, but less than for the bus (if you know the price). Sometimes we also used buses and, depending on the conditions of travel (often sitting on backpacks), it's recommend to bargain the price.

When going to the Ilha de Moçambique cars usually finish their course in Lumbo, just before the bridge, as a trip to the island has additional fee and weight restrictions.

visa – You can deal in embassies, but it is more expensive. Alternatively you can get one at the border. We get our visa in Cobue for € 19 plus € 2 tax for 30-days. Only need to warn that the visa can be issued in Cobue but not in Metangula.

When travelling by direct bus exp. from South Africa, you might be not allowed to enter a coach without a visa, since the carrier does not want to wait at the border for all formalities of issue the visas to passengers.

Mozambique embassies can be found in Malawi, Swaziland, Tanzania, Zambia, Zimbabwe and South Africa.