11.08 till 15.08.07, 4 days, currency rate 1€ = 193 MK (Malawi Kwacha)
In bank slightly less then in exchange offices, 186,4 MK for 1 €

highlights – Malawi was not in plan on our route, but the plans are to be spontaneously changed. So I was not prepared for that country, did not really know what to see and where we might go. The first problem has already appeared at the border, when after the series exchange smiles with the official, we were told that the Polish people need a visa to Malawi (although more than 40 other nationalities not). There was not nice when we realized that you can not get it at the border. A little bit angry and in unfriendly atmospheres we started go back to Zambia. But they called us again, and in an act of grace, they issued us a certificate of right to entry to Malawi, where during the 5 days we had an obligation to appear in the immigration office in order to purchase a visa. We had a luck and again we were opposed to the bureaucratic world, we get entered.

In Lilongwe we relaxed a bit, spending a cool Saturday night in one of the local music clubs. I was glad as well to eat in the different restaurants from all over the world, where was cheap and tasty and we changed our daily monotonous African diet. Then, after purchasing the visa at the airport, we went in the Malawi Lake direction - the main country attraction.

Lake? - Who would have thought - it is so huge that it looks like a sea, but with the fresh water. After whole day relaxation, sunbathing and swimming in an attractive beach Chikale in Nkhata Bay. At evening was a time to embark on the ferry. Once per week a ferry is going to one of the outlying islands. At the port the funny situation made a cashier who didn't want to sell us the tickets for economy class, unless we go on board and see the conditions of trave - in this case normally tourist are upgrading to the higher class. However, we are not afraid of crowd, and we were the only white people on the lower board. There wasn't so bad, we found a piece of floor on the open deck - from time to time someone step on us, but we could manage to rest the night. Also interesting was to see unloading on the island - anything what float (barrels of fuel, wood, straw mats etc.) was dispose directly into the lake, and drifted several hundred meters to the shore. The passengers were picked up by locals small boats - there was no rules, it looks like a fight for a customer.

Chizumulu and Likome Island lie in the Mozambique territorial waters, but they belong to Malawi. We stopped at the second island - the campsite was far away from the civilization, surrounded by hills with majestic baobabs, palms and intense coloured bougainvillea flowers. The tent was set up on the sandy beach, just few steps to the warm, clear water lake.

accommodation – in Lilongwe we stayed in the normal real backpackers, I wish to see them more often. In Likoma we had to march for half an hour to get to the campsite on the other side of the island (south - east) - silence and peace around - but better bring your own food supplies, because prices in the hotel's restaurant are a bit higher than in the centre of town. You do not need to have a tent - you can easily take the coastal cabin for less than € 4 per person. It is possibility to dive with equipment in the lake.

transport – Malawi is much cheaper than its neighbours countries (except unusual economy situation in Zimbabwe), so that travel is easier. Leaving Lilongwe we might ask the company to board to the bus on the depot - so we did with the company Stagecoach, much easier then in the bus station where a huge queue waited and there was no seats for everyone. In the buses and minibuses there wasn't extra charge for the luggage.

The best way to see the Malawi Lake is during the cruise trip - so we decided to board on Ilala ferry, which runs between Monkey Bay and Karonga. In each port comes twice per week, ones in each direction. We just went to Nkhata Bay, because on Mondays evening (8 pm) the ferry is leaving its port towards the Chizumulu and Likoma Island. Scheduled to arrive on Likoma by 3 am, but fortunately the unloading and loading get all delays, so we reached the island by 8 am. The fact that the economy class is overloaded and you must struggle for the right place, but on the other hand, a large part of this class is outside and there is the fresh air to breathe - I recommend prow. Class II guarantee a seat on a long bench, but it depends on whether the staff make sure to keep it in order. In any event, there was too stuffy. Class I is comfortable on the upper deck.

Fees for route Nkhata Bay - Likoma: economy class 610 MK (3.2 €), Second Class 850 MK, First Class 1700 MK. All prices do not include 35% tax for foreigners. We again were succeeded in confusion when buying three tickets, we got them much cheaper.

Ferry Schedule:

At the Malawi/Niassa Lake Ilala ferry runs from Monkey Bay (Malawi) on Friday morning and via Chipoka and Nkhotakota comes on Saturday morning to Metangula (Mozambique, but you won't get a visa here at the border). Trip continues and at noon ferry should be in Cobue (Mozambique, visas at border) and from here via Likoma and Chizmulu Island (Malawi) and ends in Nkhata Bay at night on Saturday/Sunday. Returns on Monday evening and reaches Cobue on Tuesday morning, continued to the south. Of course, plan and a reality often don't go together, few hours of delay is totally normal.

visa – there are only a few nations which need a visa to Malawi. In special circumstances we get permission to get to the country and had to go to the Immigration at the airport for purchase the visa. Price is 15 €, valid for one month.

In Malawi we can find embassies of following African countries: Zambia, Zimbabwe, South Africa and Mozambique.