| start date | activity | country | place | from - to | days | km | km/ day | comment |
03.02.2013 |
walking |
Chile |
Puerto Natales - park entrance in Rio Serrano |
2.5 |
81 |
32 |
||
05.02.2013 |
Torres del Paine NP |
entrance Rio Serrano - Laguna Amarga |
5 |
135 |
27 |
hiking trails | ||
10.02.2013 |
Laguna Amarga - Cerro Castillo |
1.5 |
54 |
36 |
||||
Total
| 9 |
270 |
30 |
|||||
It's hard to write about the National Park Torres del Paine. Because how to put in words something what is simply beautiful? And Park Torres falls into this category. It is so wonderful that I decided to visit the park again (last visit in 2004), despite the fact that I had to walk one more week (270 km instead of 56). But the importance of my journey is not about to crawl throw the continent, but above all - to be in beautiful places. Besides, I do enjoy to show beautiful places to the person I love. That's why I took there Ewelina .
Patagonia, however, has its own rules, and the very fact of being in the park does not guarantee a good view - it all depends on the weather. We had a lot of luck - the three main attractions (Glacier Grey, French Valley, the three towers) were presented in perfect light. We run happily from campsites to attractions, looking at blue slots into the abyss of the glacier, climbing the rocks to have a higher view points and watching the famous towers Torres three times, from different angles, at the sunsets and sunrises. The park was kind to us, and with light backpacks, we were able to draw from walking more fun .
The only pity is high commercialisation of that place. In addition to the deadly admission fee ($ 40, the most expensive park in Australia is 1.5 times cheaper), they closed cozy free campsites and introduced closing time for trails. Backpackers are forced to use the paid sites, which disqualifies potential poorer students. There is a focus on the so-called rich tourists - instead of enjoying all social groups as it would be possible with different infrastructure. Therefore, I didn't feel bad to break the rules and sleep at the officially closed campsite (as many other tourists) and enter the old trail, which now also disappeared from the new version of park maps. 
Park guards have often demonstrated a lack of basic knowledge, confusing location, price, information about campsites, trails, etc. They bring more confusion than information. But they had one big plus - they were very nice. After all, I prefer not so competent but a nice officer, rather than the other way around.
After visiting the park, I had a plan to go directly to the north to Argentina. Unfortunately officer rejected my application without any questions, responding with the copy-paste-style formal letter. Applications are not read carefully, or it was too difficult to understand for the guy who sit whole day behind the desk and have no imagination. He even suggested that i shouldn't cross the official border in poor infrastructure place but head for more comfortable one few days walk further. Where do you get these people? Coming in and out of the park we solved efficiently logistically - I went with a light backpack or even without it, and Ewelina passed me with the bus and gave me camping equipment at the end of the day. After 2 days we met at the appointed place, where she was waiting for me with all the food and clothes for the few days hike. In that way I was going easier, faster and more enjoyable.
Finally I got to the border village, where Ewelina hitchhiked few hours later. She brought fruits, sandwiches, sweets, vegetables and anything else a man can dream after a week feeding the prepackaged food. We spent our last night together (in a tent, because in the village there was no hostel - uppps, the official was right), replaced the equipment, then it's time to say goodbye. It was kind of a luxury to travel with my wife and fortunately I'll see her again in a few months in Bolivia. Time to go. Bye.
Prices in Australian dollar AUD| Country | Days | Food | (how many) paid accom. | Permits Entry fees |
Guide hire | Equipment purchase, hire |
Equipment or other freight fees | *Transport | Other | Total |
| Chile | 9 | $237 | (2) $19 | $38 | $0 | $6 | $0 | $0 | $31 | $331 |
Torres del Paine entry fee $38
screen protector $6
glucosamina $30