start date	activity	country	place	from - to	days	km	km/ day	comment
04.10.2013	cycling, paragliding	Venezuela		Santa Elena	1	64	-	preparations
05.10.2013	resting			Santa Elena	1	0	0	swollen foot
06.10.2013	cycling		Gran Sabana	Santa Elena - Kavanayen	2	241	120
08.10.2013	walking, canoe		jungle	Kavanayen - Kamarata	4	118	29	5 rivers to cross by boat
12.10.2013	cycling, swimming			Kamarata - Kavac - Kamarata	1	19	-	great gorge with waterfall
13.10.2013	canoe, walking, swimming		Canaima National Park	Kamarata - Salto Angel - Canaima	8	245	30	paddling 3 days against the current
21.10.2013	organising			Canaima	1	0	0	searching info for further road
22.10.2013	walking, canoe, rowing boat			Canaima - La Paragua	3.5	121	34	4 rivers to cross by boat
25.10.2013	resting			La Paragua	2	0	0	waiting for the bicycle
27.10.2013	cycling			La Paragua - Ciudad Bolivar	1.5	201	134
Total					25	1009	40

I look up. There are huge vertical cliffs over my head, around the green selva and the sound of water. Ribbon of water is falling from a cliff into the river - I was able to make true another childhood dream, to see the image which I knew from illustrated travel books. The ribbon of almost one kilometer high is the highest waterfall in the world - known as Salto Angel. And it isn't true that the only way to get here is by air.

     It was not easy. The real challenge of logistics and physical skills. I decided, however, to try this adventure into the unknown, longer but more interesting.
  - "It is impossible, Salto Angel can be reached only by air" - said the majority.

All but two, who claimed that I can get there by land/water. Unfortunately, they differed in details, but it was already my nut to crack. I could still go directly by bicycle to the finish line and would be at home already in three weeks. But I know that if I had not tried, I would regret it for lifetime.

      The beginnings were not too colorful. For the first time on this trip I did the day off due to bad health - in particular wound on the foot hurt. Every day walking caused more and more pain. This did not prevent me, however, in the implementation of additional plan -  by force of nature, or more precisely by the air warmed by the sun, straight up. Like a bird rose into the sky. Below me mountains, rivers, fields, forests, got smaller and smaller. Paragliding is an unforgettable experience.

 

Fortunately, after taking the antibiotic my leg improved and on the second day I hit the road with new hopes. Can I reach the waterfall without a motor?

       In Kavanayen I spoke with Indians. Radio contact with other villages and after a few hours the judgment is: "Impossible".
I had to break all the factors to find where the problem lies. But it turned out that it was technically possible. The remaining question of month time and astronomical price. I tried to drive them into the ambition, stated the various options, I explained that I walk fast, etc. I had the impression that they told me to come in the morning just to get rid of me. Resigned, I packed up and set my bike to go back the same way. It was difficult. I had no strength and determination to fight anymore.

    At  morning surprise - the price has fallen by one third. Still very expensive, but ... decision - we leave immediately. Just arrange to send the bike.

Savannah. Above us majestic tepui, the huge hill with cliff, in perspective flat top. The sun ignites the grass to simply fabulous colors. We are entering a selwa, meet wild pig, cross dozens of rivers (most by the narrow slippery trunks), I calm down. I stop counting days. How beautifully then paved road with cars. Well, maybe with the exception of bloodthirsty mosquitoes, midges and forest bugs - itchy, very much. When I scratched more blood bites I looked at them more closely - nice legs, and the head, shining eyes, perhaps even smiling at me. It was a bug, not only biting, but lived in my body camouflaging under the skin. The only hope was to catch them in the act - in the middle of the night with a flashlight when it swelled from my sweet blood.

         Ricardo went quickly, often disappeared from my sight for a long time. I could no longer jump over obstacles as at the beginning of the expedition. I climbed up the trunks slowly. Besides, I did not have my comfortable hiking boots - I was walking in running shoes. They hurt my ankle, so I changed it into sandals. In the jungle!
     We walked not only fast, but also long hours and almost without brakes. With this ee did 7-day trip in 3.5. Quicker at home.

In Kamarata I negotiate the next stage. I can see the waterfall from the top and from the bottom, but I have no strength for both versions. I took a risk and decide which for the second one - less time and walking, but is it really possible to paddle against the current?
  The Indians, however, require day of preparation.
   I hate the day off as there is nothing to do (no electricity, Internet, or computer). So I went to see the Kavac Gorge. And what a pleasant surprise - I had to swim across a narrow gorge to see at the end a beautiful play of light in the midst with a strong waterfall and rocks. It was worth it.

 

In the lodge some attractions were waiting for me. First, an earthquake in the middle of the night, even strong, great.
    Second, toilet full of surprises - lifting the toilet, and there's a snake. If I sat down on it, no one would tell you this story.
A few hours later hundreds of ants were trying to prevent my freedom of private bathroom. The next day, place of the snake took the frog. So when later I saw a spider on the toilet, I laughter. What would have happened if I had been here for longer?

       We leave in four persons. The boys are trying well, hard paddling, cooking tasty, they are organized. Hazardous river rapids we bypass after unloading the canoe and moving goods by land, and the boat is lowered carefully on the rope. But there is distance between us - I do not know whether a white - Indians or tourist - guides. I understood this on the fourth day, when we got to the beginning of the river Churun:
- "Current is too strong, we can't paddle 40 km upstream" - they declared before even try.
  This leads to fierce debate. I feel the dream was slipping away through my hands.  I suggested different versions, but obviously they didn't want to go. They added that they did not have food for so many days.  
  Then I jumped out of my speech, because if there is no food that means they knew from the beginning that we will not paddle. I also had a written contract that if I do not see the waterfall I'm paying only pennies - but here it was a dream, it wasn't about the money. But they were sure that in such circumstances I would go for a quick trip motor. They were wrong.   I did not wait any longer for their opinion.
  - "You will catch fish and hunt, or will back for provisions, and at that time I'll go through the jungle along the river."
  I grabbed a machete and went. I was angry and desperate.
  - "Walking is impossible" - they shouted.

 

A moment later we struggled through the selwa, which was not too thick. In shorts, one in flip-flops, the second one in football shoes, I'm in sandals. Fourth one drove canoe by motor and waited. Slow progress but on the gps my dream was closer.
  Initially I passed over every puddle. After a while I was walking in water up to my ankles. To speed up and do not waste time on detour, we were crossing the river, first knee deep, then waist, the armpits, and finally we had to swim. We were wet anyway, because it was the end of the rainy season and it rained every afternoon. Luckily it was a warm rain, even quite pleasant.

The boys agreed with the fact that I will not let go, so they started to work together. They exchanged their home made alcohol drink with encountered tourist boats for food, except that they used to catch fish, and once they hunted - the victim was a colorful bird, smoked same night on the campfire. I enjoyed the fact that the boys began to feel the adventure and started enjoying it. They even took pictures.

The next day the water level dropped, so half of the time we paddled, and stronger legs went through the forest. I also had the honor to see otters and flying toucan.  On the third day the first glance of the Angel Fall - it was already impressive from a distance. A few hours later I was at its feet. A dream came true.  With an internal relief I returned to the camp, and the Indians arranged for me the dinner with tourists.

  Time to set out, although it had been raining all night and did not want to stop. Between the clouds a piece of blue sky appears. Breakfast smells appetizing, but I went away from the table and run to the lookout from which was good view on the waterfall. Do not want to believe - powerful, beautiful, well-lit. I went back to borrow the camera, because my battery refused to cooperate.
I have not enough. Organized trips have to go back, but I am more independent. I'm going to my Indians and ask for re-journey to lookout. They didn't want to, but changed their minds when I offered a financial bonus.

We crossed the river and then walked. And a sudden surprise - the other river which yesterday we crossed in the calf deep level, increased and now is not possible to pass. Furiously pounding and crashing down on the stones. We were looking for the better spot, we were going up the river. After 15 minutes, I agreed to turn back, because the Indian is angry that I didn't want to use the engine for half a minute - it would be no problem. Just one more glimpse around the bend of the river - in the distance we can see lying trunk. We're both hoping - looks good, wide, stable, not really slick. With no shoes as barefoot is safer. Still, this is one of the most difficult moments of my entire trip, there is no place for mistake. I'm walking carefully, short steps, my arms are open for a better balance. Not sure what to do with sight - you have to be concentrated and look under my feet, but just below the trunk upset, raging, roaring water rushing with incredible speed. With all the stress I did not take pictures - and we will not back that way, because we have agreed with the boys for pick up in a different location, where they can get by engine. I'll regret it for the rest of my life.

    I stood speechless under a waterfall. Not only because of the shut mouth, as I didn't want to drink water borne by wind. It was theoretically the same waterfall that yesterday - today, however, completely different. I enjoyed it as a child. Photos were took by boys camera with my memory card.

 

Three days of walking/paddling against the current of the river Churun, now would seem a simple thing - a couple of hours running down. It's just that the water level has increased significantly, modifications were necessary. Our luggage was send by tourist boat, so we had better stability and sides slightly higher above the water line.  I got a life jacket.
 Let's move. The first waves of cataracts. I'm all wet on the outside, and inside with fear. After all, will we crash? After a while my oarsman role changed to the pulling water out from the canoe - hard work for all time. Fortunately, the boys knew what they were doing - before larger cascades they pulled off in the bay, observed the river and then moved on. Hour of real fun - white water wooden canoeing. This is another thing which I miss in my documentation. We passed the beaches on which we rested a few days earlier - they were now under the water. Slowly the river was losing its impetus. We found backpacks hidden in the jungle and we continued calmly to Canaima. A total of eight days on the boat.

Get out of here it was not easy too. I received contradictory information, I was running from one house to another like a pingpong. In the end I chose the best theoretical option - walked with native to his mother's house, where, fortunately, was one available canoe (family normally takes them to a gold mine). Caroni River has been crossed, the hardest part behind me. That what I thought.

     From there I just had to walk cross country just two kilometers across the mountain to the road. I got cuts by sharp grass, then the bushes were so thick that I had to get back and went by the river. But in the end I got to the road - which was even on the map, so everything should be simple. In fact, the road turned out to be a track, disappearing among the high grass of savanna. Soon, however, I came to the only village between Canaima and civilization, Las Bonitas, where for a few hours I was talking with the gold and diamonds dealer - it was interesting to see the raw minerals and hear some illegal stories. By the way, I exchanged dollars to local currency, because I had confidence in him.

     I moved on, even though the locals were much surprised:
  - "It's two weeks journey by car, if all goes well". I did not believe.
  Two days later, I believed.
It was the most difficult 4x4 road I've ever seen. Almost two days without any house, nothing passed me too.
  All fun lies in the fact that the road was more like a river for boats, rather than for wheeled vehicles. Sometimes I could get around the road, through the jungle. Sometimes, however, selwa was too thick, then there was no way - through the water. In the muddy slime where you can not see the bottom, and the track was uneven. So not only I lost my balance twice diving with a backpack, but I was walking very slowly, as I couldn't afford to twist the ankle.

When there was a bit less of water, it was mud. Calf deep. Dirty and sticky. Slippery. On the second day for several kilometers I have seen on the mud traces of jaguar. I felt a bit uncomfortable. In addition, three times I heard the howling - I do not know what the beast was it, but it was a howling monster. Once it was close enough that I walked adequately quickly to the volume. Then people told me few stories that better I did not know them before.
  When I found sections of harder surface I could make up some distance, but usually I was breaking spider net by my face. I really like spiders, but not on myself.

     When I got to the first hut, I learned about another interest - flooded river on my way, so I had to cross three lagoons. The two I can walk with a backpack on my head, if I hit the middle of the road. The third one, however, is deep - another canoe to be organized.
Now I understand why people travel here only in the dry season. The camera battery was completely flat, so I do not have a set of pictures - at lagoon I asked the local if he can take me a few pictures on his phone with my sd card - cool, but the resolution was set to minimum quality.

     This trail was another interesting challenge in my life, absolutely I do not regret this new experience. After this stage, I had to throw away the torn trousers and a shirt.

     In La Paragua I found the family of gold dealer - they paid for my hotel, fed me and organized transport of my bike, so I could ride rather than walk on paved road. It worked, but I was waiting two days for the bike. And I don't like waiting.

Special thanks for Venezuela Explorer team and "golden" family.

Prices in Australian dollar AUD

Country	Days	Food	(how many) paid accom.	Permits Entry fees	Guide hire	Equipment purchase, hire	Equipment or other freight fees	*Transport	Other	Total
Venezuela	25	$237	(7) $44	$7	$794	$200	$13	$0	$45	$1340

paragliding $40
jungle guide 4 days $285
canoe with 3 natives 8 days $675

 

back to top