| start date | activity | country | place | from - to | days | km | km/ day | comment |
17.07.2013 |
organising |
Bolivia |
Copacabana |
2 |
0 |
0 |
with Ewelina |
|
19.07.2013 |
pedal boat, walking |
Lake Titicaca |
Copacabana - Sicuani |
1 |
22 |
22 |
with boat on the lake and then walking to Sicuani via Yampupata |
|
20.07.2013 |
rowing and sailing boat, walking |
Lake Titicaca |
Sicuani - Carabuco |
1 |
45 |
45 |
rowing 6km; sailing 38km; walking 1km |
|
21.07.2013 |
walking |
Carabuco - Pelechuco |
5.5 |
158 |
28 |
very heavy backpack - no horses |
||
Total
| 9.5 |
225 |
23 |
|||||
It's completely dark, cloudy moonless sky at 4 am. Another one metre high wave is splashing into the boat. I'm cold and feel seasick. For an hour we are rowing, there is not other way to leave the bay against the wind. Afterwards fishermen stand very basic sail. It works, we are progressing on the Lake Titicaca. It's dawn already, all under control.
It didn't look good before. Yesterday other sailboat owner had cancelled the trip in the harbour at 6am, even that he had deposit and all details had been confirmed. I got my money back, but it wasn't the point. I have 40 kg luggage (as I can't post it to other Bolivian city, at least what I was told at post office), I'm not able to move with it.
Quick developing of new Plan B was that Ewelina with all baggage catch a ride to the nearby village, where I walk too, and we would search for the honest sailboat owner. I started with the guy with who I was rowing nine years ago. Same story, he can do it, all depends on the price. We made a deal.
- Wait a minute, where is a sailboat? - I'm asking.
- There is none at this moment, but we'll make it - I hear the respond.
I shouldn't see what happen after.
They brought freshly made rudder and wooden pole (mast), to the old wooden boat with the water inside. Hilaro found one timber among many lying on the bottom, and realized that the second one from the pair to hold the mast is badly rotten. The next issue was the classic - putting nails into bottom of the boat. At this point I requested to see the life jackets - they had them.
Sun is coming out from the clouds, we have calm side wind. It supposed to be great, but the atmosphere is tense - it's obvious as a moment later on the Isla de la Luna we boarding off Ewelina, she has to catch a flight back home. We parting for the fourth time during this trip, but this time for a long time. Her logistic-company help was so much valuable.
I'm leaving alone on the other shore of the lake with stone in my heart and even heavier bags. I almost crawled to village of Carabuco. And I realized quickly, that there are no horses here. How I will continue my journey with two bags?
And unexpected miracle happen - just next to me tourist family stopped with their own jeep (the only one I saw in the next month). They took my excess luggage.
Even with this help my backpack was too heavy, as I carried winter gear. Additionally my ultralight backpack is designed for max 12 kg weight, not 20 (very light padding on hip and shoulder straps). I struggled.
Luckily there were donkeys. Unfortunately all ended up on hope. I have asked eight owners and all discussion finished before we started talking about the money. They would hire it with pleasure if I return it in person, but they were too lazy to walk together. And I couldn't buy one as donkeys won't cross the river.
I was donkey myself and carried all stuff on my back. And I reached the mountains, beautiful, high, wild and empty. My mood was changing often due to outside factors as:
Good news: There are horses.
Bad news: weak ones and can't ride them.
Good: But they can carry cargo.
Bad: There is impassable pass covered with snow and ice, the group of people have returned.
Good: There was a muller who crossed the pass two days ago and he is coming back same way tomorrow exactly where I'm planning to go.
Bad: He wants too much, almost the same price if I hire the local, and he goes there anyway.
Good: It's his problem, I made a deal with locals for almost the same price, we'll leave soon.
Bad: Locals back with no horses, they can't find them on postures and they won't go.
Good: At least I saved some money and hiked alone, an hour behind a guy with two no loaded horses.
Bad: Navigation is not too easy, I do detour and lose the path. In one valley there is contaminated river by the mine, but I'm not sure which one and have to climbed one more pass at the dusk, to find small clear water source.
Good: Pass on 5033m has no snow - can make it!
Bad: I have nine passes, around 7000 meters to climb in total. Very steep.
Good: Views are worth it.
It was great without a guide, alone in the wilderness, on my own pace, I eat, sleep, take photos whenever I want. Life is beautiful.
| Country | Days | Food | (how many) paid accom. | Permits Entry fees |
Guide hire | Equipment purchase, hire |
Equipment or other freight fees | *Transport | Other | Total |
| Bolivia | 9.5 | $113 | (8) $22 | $1 | $66 | $66 | $0 | $0 | $32 | $300 |