| start date | activity | country | place | from - to | days | km | km/ day | comment |
19.09.2013 |
resting |
Brazil |
Manaus |
1 |
0 |
0 |
||
20.09.2013 |
preparations |
Manaus |
1 |
35 |
35 |
obtaining permit for Indian Reserve crossing, buying the rollerskates |
||
21.09.2013 |
cycling |
Indian Reserve |
Manaus - Jundia |
2.5 |
372 |
148 |
in Jundia I sent a bicycle and pot rollerskates on |
|
23.09.2013 |
rollerskating, walking |
Roraima province |
Jundia - Rorainopolis |
3 |
136 |
45 |
||
26.09.2013 |
cycling |
Rorainopolis - Novo Paraiso |
0.5 |
35 |
- |
|||
27.09.2013 |
rollerskating, walking |
Novo Paraiso - Iracema |
2.5 |
160 |
64 |
|||
29.09.2013 |
cycling |
Iracema - Boa Vista |
0.5 |
102 |
- |
|||
30.09.2013 |
resting |
Boa Vista |
1 |
0 |
0 |
|||
01.10.2013 |
cycling |
Brazil, Venezuela |
Boa Vista - Santa Elena de Urien |
0 |
0 |
0 |
||
03.10.2013 |
resting |
Venezuela |
Santa Elena de Urien |
1 |
0 |
0 |
||
Total
| 0 |
0 |
0 |
|||||
"People will understand and forgive you" - one of the tips on the problem of crossing Indian reserve, if they will not let me go un-motorized. The bureaucracy is sometimes too strong.
Only if I would forgive myself?
Runners which are a few days in front of me were not allowed to enter the reserve, even that they offered that they will leave the reserve each evening. Online I found confusing info.
Closest friends believed in me a lot, which motivated me further. The only alternative I have it would be paddling a few hundred kilometers against the river current. Real, but very hard. On the other hand another comment:
- "If it wasn't hard it wouldn't be any fun".
Right.
Therefore, in Manaus I fought with officials. Fortunately I always found a helpful soul, and finally after visits to several institutions I came to the office of the decision maker. And despite the fact that there was a linguistic barrier between us, Vincent was open minded. Language is not an obstacle, if they wish to understand us.
Now for the implementation of the plan - first to explain what I was doing and why, and ask for permission to cross the reserve on the skaterollers.
- "Why is it impossible? I won't make any impact on Indians life, there are no villages along the road. Let's paddle - I can't either, the river flows through their land? Well, I have to paddle around the reserve, the month of slave labor".
Then it seems that I'm desperate and I might do something stupid like illegal trespassing, it is better to have an eye on me. Then I pretend that I just have a new idea, which actually was my goal from the beginning:
- "What if I buy the bike, I will pass reserve in one day without any problem, right?"
Glint in his eye, smile, details, specific dates, passport. I left the office with authorization. I want to shout, euphoria, however, better keep the happiness back - the paper means a lot, but still it doesn't guarantee the success. We'll see who will be standing at the front gate.
Buy rollerskates in my size was a challenge. Synthetic long socks even harder. So only one night left for some practice.
I had rollerskates on my feet once in my life, some less than 20 years ago. Fortunately, while studying at the Academy of Physical Education I had icef skating classes. I thought that these two sports are related to each other.
I was correct. Riding straight on flat or uphill was as easy as riding a bike - you never forget how to do it. Turning on the curves wasn't too bad either. But I had a big problem - how to stop.
So I watched online video tutorials and I went practice. At slow speed wasn't too bad.
The next morning I fixed the last things from "to do" list and I want to set off. Suddenly in my mind - how to go downhill?
Quick search techniques on Youtube - to be remembered and put into practice later on.
Departure northbound from Manaus was in heavy traffic and countless steep climbs - the complete opposite to the southbound road. If I knew it I would install derailleur - and so I had to push the bike.
After two days I reached the border of the reserve. Native tribes of Waimiri and Atroari aren't too happy to talk with me, I see untrust in their eyes. Grandparents had to pass some horror stories about bad whites - maybe they are right, they were treated badly in the past. I show my paper, but they will not let me go today, I have to come back early tomorrow. I'm not sure at all if my authorization had any meaning for them - I think they still would let me go without any special paper.
Together with the sun I showed up at the gate. Conditions of entry - no filming, taking pictures, I can not fill up the water, I have no right even to stop. Riding distance 125 km.
Reserve is beautiful, virgin. Lots of water and jungle, no human activity. Colorful parrots scream, xx runs across the way, the green selva wall tempts with its mystery, refreshingly pure water splashes.
Crash! The wheel blocks. Rack broke and weight settled on the rear tire. Please, not here. I have not checked the bike after the Amazonia stage, where the crazy leaps through a holes had to damaged the rack.
Quickly take out the tools and try makeshift repairs, just to be able to go, not to be taken by uniformed reserve rangers on motorized vehicle. Someone stops and asks if everything is in order.
- "Of course, just correcting the luggage, I'm going."
With temporarily fixed rack by wires I was riding as fast as possible avoiding the holes in the asphalt.
At 2pm I found myself in a psychological paradise - overcome the last of the great formal obstacles!
I put on my rollerskates out of town, a bit of shame to be seen by men. Although I have a super light backpack (all including the food is 3 kg), the first slides are a battle with gravity and balance. Slowly I ran onto a decent technique on flat and uphill. But it was a time to go downhill - slalom with slowing down speed at every turn. However, at some point I lose control and go too fast - the only option was to go straight. When the situation happened again, it scared me of the consequences. Because even on a flat I could not stop on command at a slightly faster ride. My braking was based on slowing down by doing nothing. I was riding on the left side of the road against the traffic and watched the cars coming down, pull off on the shoulder when it was necessary.
I Crossed the equator and I am pleased that in a rather unique way. I'm here at a time when the sun is exactly at its zenith - at noon shadow falls perfectly under my feet. From now on I'm going with sun to my back, not in face.
After three days I picked up my bike. However, I remained unsatisfied and in the next town I re-sent again my bike by the bus company and started rollerskating for another 150 km. I liked it. It is true that pavement was sometimes tragic, feet hurt, but overall it was fun.
At the end of the trip the wheels were already so worn that it was no problem to go even downhill, but it was much harder to work on the flat. When I got to the last village, I found out that the bike has not arrived there yet. Fortunately, it was the Brazil and the deal with distribution manager was that I move on, and tomorrow passing me bus will deliver me my bike. This is not Europe where I would be advice that the rules prohibit a coach stopping between the destinations.
In Boa Vista I installed a derailleur in the bike, as the mountains were waiting for me while climbing to the border with Venezuela. Incredible help and support I received from the bike shop P.P. Pecas . The Brazilians proved to be a terrific helpful and with amazing hospitality. Even those who could make money on me, often lowered the price already when it has been established and the service completed.
| Country | Days | Food | (how many) paid accom. | Permits Entry fees |
Guide hire | Equipment purchase, hire |
Equipment or other freight fees | *Transport | Other | Total |
| Brazil, Venezuela | 15 | $308 | (3) $31 | $0 | $0 | $335 | $96 | $0 | $25 | $795 |
running shoes 87$
fixing bicycle and install gear speeds $93