31.05 till 6.06.07, 6 days, currency rate 1 € = 660 F (CFA, Central African Franc)

highlights – Gabon stand out from other Africa countries  - national income per capita is higher than in South Africa or in Poland, and in the continent only insignificantly give up to Libya. It is caused to big stocks of petroleum which is skillful distributed in the country. It is possible to meet there emigrants from almost whole Africa, which have arrived to work. It’s true that local president Albert Bongo (after he converted to Islam he called himself Omar) has still power in this country for over 40 years. However, he was able to keep good economy and peace in this so unstable part of Africa. He received my recognition when Omar, after seeing National Geographic documentary movie (director Mike Fay went 3,200 km through the central African jungle has showed unique and virginity of this land), has approved establish of 13 national parks, in order to protect this natural treasure.

We went to village with exotic name Cocobeach. Prices shocked us a bit, but they still were acceptable. However, we have decided for hitchhiking. Already second hitch dropped us straight on to parish, where Polish missionaries took care about us. We got hospitality with excellent food, room with shower, good company and package of interesting information from first hand, about the country and everyday life (along with great mask and other pagans collection).

During preparation to this African adventure I was affraid Gabon Adder and Spitting Adder (which can spit for distance range of 3 meters), because we had plans for wild camping. In practice it has turned out that those poisonous reptiles run away from humans, however, you cannot say that about aggressive black mamba. This snake won’t feel steps vibration because usually hangs on tree and attacks intruder from surprising - territory defence. When locals find black mamba obligatory must it burn or throw under the car, because African believe that vampire lives inside the snake and can return and kill you. However, green mamba is associated as good sign. We had luck and no direct snake encounter. Other thing is iboga, hallucinatory root. In Europe is recognized as subordinating drug, so when somebody offer you traditional shaman’s spectacle, think twice.

We were continuing to the east of the country, where the further on we travelled the worse transport network was. One day in Franceville area, we have covered 38 kilometers on foot (in afternoon no many cars passed us - remember to travel early mornings), because we wanted to see Poubara Chutes described in LP. To get there you should take a transport from Franceville in south direction to Baumango, and after 22 km (500 CFA) there is right turn with barely visible sign. From there is 7 km hike in little used path. Unfortunately, visited lianas bridge was reconstucted and payable, no impressing. Staff demanded 2500 CFA for entrance on this bridge and the same for camera. We resigned from the visit. Now the other return option is passing on other side of the bridge and getting to nearby Venge village, from where should be better transport to Franceville (55 km). However, we did not want to pay such high rate for bridge crossing, so we have returned same way, but on the main road there was no traffic – all way we walked on foot.

Trekking to Lekoni Canyon (Cirque de Lekoni) was worth the effort. Narrow vertical rock walls have satisfied our expectations. Is not too easy to get there, hire 4x4 car prices were unacceptable, besides we had contradictory information about time, direction and distance. I try to describe the way. Roughly 1,5 km from immigration office, Chinese company were building  new road to Congo (probably they already finished). At this point is end of the village and new road begins – first downhill to the valley bottom and later all the tiime slightly uphill. After 6 km hike (7,5 km from immigration, should be PK6 post) is barely visible turn right for local cars. It leads few hundreds meters through the forest and fall in big open valley, from there is already only 40 minutes walk. First you go down to the valley bottom and next up to the crater rim. Two are two craters, but the eastern one is more beautiful. We spent the night under mosquito net in such pretty scenery, no buildings, no people.

Then we continued walk (because again there was no traffic) to Congo border by the old road, among beautiful, green, hilly savanna and nice and hospitable Gabonians. We came to the border already in night fall. We have stopped in Akou village with encountered locals, but police and boundary chief took us to his office. He offered some alcoholic drinks and we started nice and funny conversation, he also ofered us accomodation in one of the police cell. Suddenly one truck has appeared, the first vehicle within last 10 hours. Policeman has simply informed driver (read ordered) to find a place in his cabin and take us to Congo. In addition he established very attractive price – we didn’t have objection. Driver has no choice and we had overnight ride thanks to enthusiastic commander.

accommodation – to find a cheap hostel in Franceville, from train station go uphill on main paved road until traffic lights (around 20 min walk) and catch minibus (100 CFA) in the right direction to Poto Poto district (sometimes called Potos). Now from the main roundabout go uphill (next to the cinema) for around 200 m and turn left downhill in the river direction - there is Buke Buke complex with 32 rooms (price list in reception). Double room with fan and shared bathroom costs 5,500 CFA; with fan and own bathroom 8,000 CFA; with AC and own bathroom 13,000 CFA. The more expensive but closer alternative is Chez Tantine Odile, Auberge Bar Restaurant - from train station go to the town centre direction, means left uphill on unpaved road and after around 5 min of march you will find this hotel – rooms from 7,500 CFA with fan.

In Lekoni I did not use accommodation, but I asked in hotel about the prices – expensive Hotel the Lekoni charges 15,200 CFA for double room with air conditioning, bathroom and TV. Much cheaper option could be old, damage Aouberge Akila Ndzami, from immigration office a few hundreds meters on the left side of main road towards village centre. It looks definitely cheaper, but I didn’t meet the owner.

town	hotel and address	N	accommodation	price per night	€/ pp	note	comments
Cocobeach	Motel Iboga, LP	1	1 bed room	5000*F/ room	€3.8	5	wc, shower, fan, power
Franceville	Buke Buke Motel	2	double room	5500 F/ room	€4.2	6	fan, power
	in wild	1	Lekoni
	hospitality	1	Catholic Mission
	in transport	1
		6			€12.2 (3)

transport – I hitchhiked, so I’m passing not 100% price info: Cocobeach - Libreville 4,000 CFA, 3 hours; Libreville – Ndjole (end of paved road) 7,000 CFA, shared taxi; Ndjole - Lastoursville (lack of public transport – hitchhiking), required four whell drive, we hitched the truck, 12 hours, after sharp bargain 15,000 CFA for 2 persons on one seat inside the cabin; Lastoursville (paved road starts) - Franceville 3,500 CFA, 4 hours; Lekoni - Okoyo (village in Congo) locals pay from 10,000 CFA, but they tried charge us 30,000 CFA (maybe when they open a new road to Congo the price  drops). We could not accept such rate and we walked 25 km to the border (Akou village).

day	destination	transport	price in F	€/ pp	duration	km
142	Cocobeach - Ntoum	2x hitchhiking	<3000 F>	-	4 h	85
143 - 144	Ntoum - Franceville	5x hitchhiking	7500 F	€11.4	20 h	725
145	Franceville - Poubara Falls + return	2x (hitchhiking and walk)	-	-	1h + 9,5h	20 + 38
146	Franceville - Lekoni	4x hitchhiking	-	-	5 h	95
146 - 147	Lekoni - Lekoni Canyon + return	walk	-	-	3h + 2h	13 + 11
147	Lekoni - Akou (border)	hitchhiking + walk	-	-	20' + 4h	7 + 18
	city transport	taxi	400 F	€0.6	-	-
				€12.0		1012

Why to make your life more difficult, when train operates here – unfortunatelly too expensive for us. I wrote down the timetable and price list displayed in the train station. There is possibility to get off on the route, as well in Lope, close to popular among tourists Reserve de la Lope (for example Franceville – Lope, Train L’Equateur, II class, 15,900 CFA, or in NTSA Express Train, VIP class, 28,900 CFA).

trains from Liberville to Franceville (prices in CFA)

day	departures	arrivals	train type	VIP (couchette)	I class	II class
Tuesday	09.35	20.15	NTSA Express	52,600	46,400	36,700
Wednesday	20.30	07.50	Train L'Equateur	-	39,200	29,000
Friday	20.30	07.30	NTSA Express	52,600	46,400	36,700
Sunday	20.30	08.00	Train L'Equateur	-	39,200	29,000

trains from Franceville to Liberville (prices in CFA)

day	departures	arrivals	train type	VIP (couchette)	I class	II class
Tuesday	19.00	06.20	Train L'Equateur	-	39,200	29,000
Thursday	10.00	21.00	NTSA Express	52,600	46,400	36,700
Friday	19.00	07.10	Train L'Equateur	-	39,200	29,000
Sunday	19.50	06.50	NTSA Express	52,600	46,400	36,700

visa – we obtained in Yaounde, Cameroon. Deposit the application before afternoon, receive it the next day afternoon, 35,000 CFA, valid for one month. Strange, in Europe is very difficult to obtain a tourist visa to Gabon without hotel booking, flight ticket, bank statement etc. but this procedure can be done without problems in neighboring countries.

Gabon has embassies in Togo, Equatorial Guinea, Cameroon, Congo, Nigeria and Angola.