4.05 to 26.05.07, 22 days, currency rate 1 € = 660 F (CFA, Central African Franc)

highlights – Cameroonian seem to have two passions easily visible at every step - football and beer. Our first contact with them took place during mountain trekking from Mokolo to Koza, where we found market in one of the villages (Djinglija). And what we saw? The whole village gathered in the main square. Dancing, playing, singing and drinking a corn beer from calabash bowls brewed at home. The second day, when passing the next village, we found out again market with drank residents. Thus, that will be normal scenery during our stay in Cameroon - drunken village and in city full bars, beer visible everywhere but with fun, no fight.

In the Rhumsiki we hiked in Mandar Mountains, admired the interesting rock formations. We were walking without a guide, because it wasn’t a great philosophy of navigation. In one of the villages encountered the funeral. Carried out by the whole village dancing in the wild and spontaneous way, but I do not know how much this was true traditional dance in a trance, and how much ordinary drunkenness, because there was a lot of alcohol.

Also benefited from the closely lie visa-free Nigerian village we went there through the mountains – different money, language, but also nice smiling easy going people (brief relation in "Nigeria").

Our trekking was as follows – we started in Rhumsiki at 7 am by unpaved road towards Gombe village (6km), and from here by a small track we were heading to Kila. Then you had to climb the hill to the village Upper Kila (14km from Rhumsiki). We joined the local who walked the same direction and we gave him 100 CFA for showing the route. We arrived there by 11 am on Monday and encountered the market combined with the funeral. Thus, late in the afternoon we went to Roufta village, and after that we slept in the middle way to Mourou, in the cottage known as Negress (owners killed the cock for our honor). That was another 2 hours walk and a further 6 km. We started hike the next morning before 7 am, went through Mourou, where we were looking around because there are interesting rock formations. Later, continued our march on 4x4 track we reached the main road Rhumsiki - Mokolo. We crossed it and descent by very steep path down to the valley (3 hours, 12 km away from the overnight stay), South from an interesting large Rhumsiki Peak. At the bottom of the valley lies the riverbed – it is unofficial border with Nigeria (visa-free border crossing apparently is legal but only to the Sani village). We have reached a few houses and we didn’t know which way we should climbed up. We asked a kid who was working with his mother to guide us to the summit for 550 CFA (1.5 hours, 2 km from the valley). In Nigeria we admired the high cactus fences, were eating the delicious mango fruits and knowing number of local residents. At afternoon we returned to Cameroon (direct distance Sani - Rhumsiki, 3km). From the main road you may take a few jumps on side to the nearby rocks for a cool view. In total, during 2-day intensive hike, we covered a distance 37 km. Owner of Kirdi Bar, known as Don Quixote, is organizing a similar trekking 1 or 2-day, for 12,000 CFA per day per person including guide, accommodation and meals.

Cameroon first was occupied by Germans, and later by French and English. At present the country uses two official languages - French and English, and here is recorded about 300 local dialects. Hardly when we have learnt few phrases like "good morning" and "thank you" in the local language, to find out they were completely useless several kilometers away.

One of the most interesting things I learnt in Cameroon, is a knowing the mini-kingdoms. Even a small village was often a separate “country”, which was ruled by "Fon". Lord of such a function wasn’t only representative, but also was a mediator between his people and federal government. It has also certain power – decide in local disputes, land purchase, and may refuse white workers etc. Failure to complete his commands could lead to very serious consequences. Mysterious accidents might happen, and his people will be behind the king and no one will be cooperating with the federal police. Many things and habits are still in the traditional way, some of remain difficult to understand or stay in secret from intruder.

Sultan in Niger had 4 wives (the maximum number allowed by Islam), but here people are choosing women for Fon in each occasion. One of them in Kumbo had already more than 150 ladies (if he doesn’t like her, he can pass a woman to friend as gift). A very interesting person was Sultan Ibrahim Njoy from Foumban, we visited his palace and museum. At the beginning of XX century he invented owns religion (a mixture of Christianity, Islam and Animism), calendar, and even a characters (the only local alphabet used nowadays in West Africa). He had over 600 wives, because he was looking for perfect woman - even though he was intelligent, probably he did not know that one does not exist.

In Foumban I recommend visiting area known as Village des Artisans, where artists display interesting leather, wood or bronze products. We, due to the limitation of baggage to an absolute minimum of weight, just looked at these souvenirs.

We liked hiking around the Ring Road (Kumbo), moderate climate at an altitude of nearly 2,000 meters, green and rainy, mountains, lakes and waterfalls - what a variety after traveling 4 months in heat and gray landscape. We pulled out our gore-tex jackets. Statistics indicate that rainfall in Cameroon is one of the strongest in Africa, and the rainy season just became.

In the Bamessing neighborhood we visited Prespot Center where we could see the entire process of creating ceramics from clay. You pay for a tour as much you want, but this donation had minimum of 5,000 CFA, so we had warned them that we are backpackers, not rich tourists. They accepted the payment of 1500 CFA from two persons. At afternoon we got lift near Sabga Hill, and then hike return way down on the mountain paths. Unfortunately the dense mist has fallen, and after rain the river level rose up and the track was cut off by nature. We descended in dense vegetation on the steep slope, directly towards the only light we have seen. When we reached the house in the valley, the hosts were very scared and after long calling them to get out, a small boy with his broken English explained to us the way back. However, we returned to them quickly, because the path has already been flooded by river. We insisted and ultimately the whole family (old lady and three children) started guiding us by detour to help us get on the main road. The older woman walked in front with oil lamp and all the time was whispering drove away the evil spirits, which is believed in Africa to walk at night. We were grateful to those simple poor people, despite their own fear that they led us into the darkness of night (previously they offered us a stay at their home, but we knew that our hostel owner would be worry). We were exhausted and when we were returning already in our village centre, several men in balaclavas covering their faces suddenly blocked the road. Then I thought that finally my good fortune ended. Fortunately, masked men turned out to not be the criminals, but Fon’s security guards. In this small village king forbids walking after 11 pm, but us as white people, let go without arresting.

We had a lot of luck with local folklore. In Bandjoun (near Bafoussam), in one of the best preserved "cheferia" (house of village heads, standing lower then “fon” in the hierarchy), every two years takes place the traditional dance, it was interesting experience. I do not need to add that before the dancers drank the beers. In Cheferia there are interesting examples of Bamileke tribe traditional architecture, the big such for Africa wooden structure. It has also an interesting museum, but unfortunately expensive. It took them long time to accept our ISIC student card - but we got the discount.

Barombi Mbo is a crater lake, nice place, but nothing special. Before entering into the lake area a man responsible for opening the road announced to us that we have to pay admission fee. There wasn’t official price list, so I began to explain him that the fee is only for cars. He said immediately ok. If traveling by collective taxi ask to be dropped at "up station", from where you have only 15 minutes hike. We relaxed and swam a bit in simply fantastic water, as it is heated by the interior of the Earth to the perfect temperature.

I decided to climb the highest summit of West and Central Africa, Mt. Cameroon (4095m). The start place is Buea, about 900m above sea level. The climbing authorization is not clear - before entering the trail is a board indicating that you can not enter without permission, but there is no info about guide and porter. Official price list from Cameroon Ecotourism Organization (mountceo@yahoo.uk) is as follows: permit - 3,000 CFA per day, the administration fee 2,000 CFA per day, guide 6000 CFA per day per group (max. 5 people); porter - 5,000 CFA per day (max. 15 kg). Unfortunately, in theory you cannot reach the summit in one day, and even if you do, you have to pay for 2 days. Of course, there are a few routes to the summit, some longer escapades are possible. Rent the camping gear is also available.

Presbiterian Hostel is the perfect location for departure in the morning if we decide to climb on the shortest and fastest route called "Route Guinness. After leaving the gate we turn to the right up the street (not in main road) and at the crossroads (1 km) turn right following the arrows painted on the asphalt (annually in last weekend of January marathon takes place to the summit and back). By winding road we climb up near to the radio antenna at some official buildings (good to be here before dawn to avoid potential questions why we go without a guide). On the left we pass a board welcoming in the Mt. Cameroon National Park, and after a few hundred meters on the right side we pass a circular concrete tank with metal roof. Here is the most important - continuing the journey after passing the reservoir, turn in right angles to the right in the first track. The entire route is marked well by white paint, but unfortunately this important turn is unmarked. I naturally went straight on and I lost myself in the small path in the forest (where was mistake I realized when returning). I wandered at the beginning of the route, but after two hours I found the woodcutters who guided me to the right path. Climbing up the trail, at the end of forest we reach the first hut (1A), situated at 1875m. Here is the last time to fill the water from the pipe, and you can stay overnight in the primitive rooms. Later is a cottage 1B and further on follows by steep path we approach the hut no 2 at a height of 2860m (from hut 1A to hut 2, 2 hours). This is already on treeless slope. Here unfortunately, returning with client local guide asked me for permission so aggressively, that I was forced to gave him a deposit of 10,000 CFA, which should be return to me in the office - his client was a witness. Standing barrels with collected rainwater might help here. After steep climbing we approach hut number 3 (3740m, 1h 50 min). After a break due to almost zero visibility, ultimately the mist has partly gone. I hiked to the top on the quite acceptable path (4095m, 30 min). Now we have time to celebrate the climb. I was lucky - the clouds have gone and I had beautiful views during descend, and came down to Buea (in rush 3h 40min) straight to the delicious dinner prepared by waiting Ewelina. The total distance is 37 km, but if you start early in the morning is a chance to return the same day. In total it took me 13.5 hours, including nearly two hours wandering at the beginning of the road. The second day I had to fight like a lion with Mt. Cameroon Ecotourism office, because of course they not only didn’t want to give me my money back, but also wanted charge me extra for guide and porter and 2 days climbing permit (doesn’t matter if you reach the summit in one day). My argue was there is no official letter, website etc. with those information and finally they returned me 5000 CFA, the remained second 5000 CFA charged me for the 1 day permit.

In Douala, the largest city in the country, we had the opportunity to admire the Africa Day procession - the military, police, students and political parties, etc.

In the capital, in Yaounde, we visited our couchsurfing host Martin. During the day we were applying for new visas for the neighboring countries, and tried to find out where our tent is, as our family sent it to Post Restante quite long time ago - but management of post office was useless. We have never seen our tent again. We even couldn’t use internet too much, because there was a lot of electricity cuts off.

When we were going to the South of the country, on the check points the police gave incompetent forcing bribes show - but I firmly refused with a smile. The most common in the police opinion we must do compulsory payment for the following: registration, lack of whole range of vaccination (in fact, it is mandatory only for yellow fever), no visa, stamps, and some others idiocy. Once I had a serious clash with the bus driver, because he saw that I do not want to pay so popular bribes for "nothing", and he did not want to wait for the bureaucracy formalities to be filled. He decided to kick off us from already paid ride. He pulled down our backpacks from the roof, and I put them back to the bus, running between the bus and the police. Fortunately, a few passengers stood in our defense and they didn’t leave us in the middle of the night with dishonest police. Leaving the country we tried to remember previous friendly Cameroonian, not the last wrong adventures.

accommodation – most of hostels in Cameroon have a rooms price list hanging in reception. Even that sometimes they try to cheat - argue that all the cheapest rooms are occupied.

In Rhumsiki I recommend Kiroi Bar, which is owned by Don Quixote, a very practical man, though the first impression was not so good. In addition to decent price for accommodation, it also offers great meals, although they are not the cheapest, the pepper steak ("Steak au Poivre") is simply sensational (2500 CFA for a portion with French fries), the same pizza and bread baking at home.

In Roufta (during the trekking in Rhumsiki), we were invited by locals for night. Usually we don’t give money for the hospitality, but that time we did not have food with us (pasta, rice, sugar, etc.), so we gave a little cash to poor householders who kill cock for us. Total of 3,000 CFA /2persons - but 1000 CFA I calculated as food, 2000 CFA as accommodation.

In Bamessing price should be 2,500 CFA per person, but they let us stay paying only for one person.

transport – no charge for luggage! We found also that the motor bike can take two passengers with daypacks and two large backpacks.

From Yaounde to Ngaoundere you can take the train, which departs every evening.

In Kumba, to get to the lake you should catch a collective taxi to the up station, then walk 15 min (do not pay the fees if you go on foot). Leaving Kumba you might also catch a collective taxi, because the bus station direction to Buea is a far.

When arrive to Buea you will be dropped on intersection from where you need to get uphill to the town center, catch minibus or shared taxi. 

At bus stations you can leave your luggage and go out, you can also spend a night there on the ground.

visa – we applied for your visa in N’djamena. The cost 50,000 CFA (79 €), valid for a period we declare, but not longer than 3 months. I waited one day.

Cameroon has embassies in Nigeria, Senegal, Ivory Coast, Chad, Congo, Equatorial Guinea, Ethiopia, Gabon and Central African Republic.