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TransAfrica 2007

Central Africa
Central Africa Chad Cameroon Nigeria Equatorial Guinea Gabon Congo Democratic Republic of Congo Angola

Democratic Republic of Congo (former Zair)

11.06 to 15.06.07, 4 days, bank currency rate 1 € = 580 CF (Congolese Franc); black market 1 € = 670 CF.
I was exchanging CFA in Brazzaville in poor conversion 1 € for 550 CF.

highlights – Democratic Congo, as the only colony in the world, has been owned by the only one man – King of Belgium, Leopold II (end of XIX century). He even once didn’t visit his own land. The country was plundered in a very cruel and brutal way - mostly slaves, ivory and rubber were taken out. The Belgium Government, after redemption that land from the king, only increased the list of natural resources exported to Europe, where wood, diamonds and oil were a priority. Unfortunately, the country was still robbed after the independence. This time President Mobutu showed to his people how to export millions of dollars to private accounts in European banks.

After Lagos and Cairo, Kinshasa is the largest city in Africa, 7 million inhabitants. That city I feared the most, because media and friends fed me up with the horrible stories about post-war riots. In this country UN troops are stationed, the biggest in the world, with the reason. I emailed the Polish embassy for safety advice – answers calmed me down a bit - after last elections civil security seems significantly improved. Although it is better not to do photos in public places (thieves and danger of camera confiscation by the police), it was necessary to preserve the greater vigilance when walking (especially after dark is better to stay at home) and avoid the police in any situation. The first step after disembarks from the ferry we proceeded straight to our diplomatic mission to get the latest information. Polish ambassadors hosted us very warmly, talked, advised and served the lunch (potatoes!), in the end gave us a lift to the church mission. If you don’t have cash don’t panic, now there are ATMs in the city. One of a few attractions in town (I don’t count ugly but interesting high concrete wall in almost every premise) may be Kabila Mausoleum, national hero.

However, on the second day we got to the crowded prison cell. And the entire situation was arranged by Sisters of Mother Teresa, who have given us the opportunity for voluntary work (feeding the prisoners). Our help was small but it was an interesting experience, though a bit depressing. We have seen the tragic conditions of the local "criminals", some of them looked scared (some of them got here for food stealing in hunger or other minor offenses). Family should feed the prisoners, so the Sisters are concerned about the alone one. Adrenaline has risen when we realized that the police are only outside the prison – inside 4,000 prisoners are governing themselves (only sick consumptive persons were under the key). At the end one of political prisoner has invited us to his double cell, where he actually had all what you might need to live in these circumstances. Even the car transfer to and out from the prison was so interesting, because we went through dirty, neglected and crowded slums districts (we wouldn’t go there by ourselves). A similar serious impression left in us after visiting the orphanage house with young, abandoned and sick children (often with HIV/AIDS). It is great that there is someone who cares about them.

Mission's schoolI wouldn’t like to make this travel the Catholic story, but it would be a sin not to bring a brief missionary activity, which generally had an impact on our trip. And I don’t mean only the friendly and open hospitality, interesting chat and showing the everyday local life, but above all I have seen what are the priests, brothers and sisters really job. My stereotypical priest image (not positive) has been destroyed. Media often doesn’t describe good things; scandals are their “food”. But missionaries aren’t here only to speak on pulpit (apolitical), but above all, work for the local community. Integral parts of the parish are schools, hospitals (clinics), orphanages or profession workshop apprenticeship. The education level in their Catholic Schools (students of other religions are also welcome) is much higher than the chaotic public institutions. Educated young people have more chance for better future. Priests have a lot of capabilities such as: management, coordination, organization, etc., must find adequately staff to cooperate and the possibility of financial support, resolve the bureaucratic affairs, book-keeping, they are responsible for equitable gift distribution, etc. They must know the local language, basics of mechanics and constructions (repair car, roof, build a school, etc.), and in the evening prepare clever sermon for tomorrow. The parish usually embraces remote villages, to which priests must get there. Of course, not everywhere is required so many skills, a lot depends on what current stage of development is a mission. And all this activity is at own request, a desire to help others, separation from family, often loneliness, health and life risk (with tropical diseases and dangers during the war). And additionally in my eyes they are normal men, you can play volleyball with them, make an interesting conversations, joke and drink a beer.

Unfortunately police is making more difficult to move around the country, and when they are seeing white men, they try some tricks to get the bribe. Some of the policemen, I said it gently, doesn’t make positive impression. Once, boys who had used a funny police ID photocopy have pulled us out from the pick-up. Despite my initial attempts to ignore them and refused their aggressive pressure they have forced us to walk to a nearby police office. Over there the official uniformed police has already started attempt to keep us without the reason. We had time and started read our books asking them from time to time what is going on. When they already got bored that game we finally filled up the registration book and we could go to our still waiting pick-up. In such cases is important do not enter with any unofficial policeman to any vehicle or turn off from the main traffic road. As long the police won’t force me or threaten with aggression I calmly refuse the unusual requests. In case of lack of understanding I’m asking to contact my embassy (although this is only a verbal battle). Particularly important is not let anyone go with your passport. At the border and in the police office I was following the officials with my passport everywhere, giving them the explanation that I must see my document all the time. In first contact I tried to give them a passport photocopy, sometimes it worked. We survived twice more the corrupt police oppression with no bribe. Once, the immigration officer helped us and it seems like they don’t like police as well. In the province dealings with both - locals and authorities, were already much better (with some exceptions).

In Kisante we visited botanical gardens, and with the absence of any other attractions, they were not so bad. That was relaxation time - open from 7.30 am till 5 pm, entry 500 CF, students 200 CF, video 3,000 CF, camera 1,500 CF, guide 2,000 CF. We liked Matadi, a picturesque town built on the mountain terraces slopes. If you choose to go to Angola, I suggest exchanging money in the local market, the same with supplying in food, it’s cheaper and better choice in Matadi (on other border side is only a small village). Here we said goodbye to a little stressful, but original for visitors, Democratic Republic of Congo.

town site price in FK €/ pp duration note comments
Kisantu botanic garden 200 FK €0.3 2 h ok ISIC discount
      €0.3      

hotel in Matadiaccommodation – in Kinshasa and Kisante we slept in the Catholic Missions. The only hotel we took was in Matadi. Lawyer, who took us as hitchhikers, knew the owner and negotiated the price for us. The hotel is located in Ville Basse, near the cathedral in the town center. This is a several storied colonial building with large balconies with views on the Congo River.

town hotel and address N accommodation price per night €/ pp note comments
Matadi Hotel Mibingu, Ville Basse 1 1 bed room 8000 FK/ room €6.9 wc, fan, balcony
  hospitality 3 Catholic Missions        
    4     €6.9 (1)    

transport – we used a public transport only from Kinshasa to Kisante, where the cabin seat (2,000 CF) was more expensive than at rear (1,500 CF), but in this stressful place we wanted hide inside the vehicle as quick we could. Unfortunately local evil eyes found – boys pretended to be the police officers pulled us out to the office, but the car was waiting for our return all the time. The driver did us a favor, but on the road checkpoint the policeman enforces driver to contribute him. We don’t know how much he paid, so we bought him some food as compensation. Further part in the country we hitchhiked. Once, when police harassed us again, the immigration officer saved us from them and after verifying our documents, he expressed my birthday wishes and stopped truck for us.

In Matadi we took collective taxi (partage) for 200 CF per person. We reached the part of the city nearest the border, where some 2 km walking remain. There is an alternative route to Angola via Boma, from where you can catch 2 hours motorboat trip to Sayo - hence may be easier to get to Luanda (see Angola description).

day destination transport price in FK €/ pp duration km
154 Kinshasa - Kisantu pick-up cabin 2000 FK €3.4 3 h 134
155 Kisantu - Matadi truck, hitchhiking - - 5 h 238
156 Matadi - border shuttle taxi 200 FK/ per €0.3 - -
  city transport car, jeep - - - -
        €3.7   372

visa

visa – we submitted our applications in Warsaw, more than half a year before entry to Democratic Republic of Congo. Price 105 USD, valid for one month from declared date of entry. We were waiting for a visa a few hours thanks to relaxed consul.

Visa can be also obtained in Cameroon, Togo, Congo-Brazzaville and Angola.

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