26.05 to 31.05.07, 5 days, currency rate 1 € = 660 F (CFA, Central African Franc)

highlights – Equatorial Guinea is tiny but rich country (oil), with only half of million inhabitants. In its nearly 50-year history it had only two presidents (dictators). They shed a lot of blood, did political persecutions (including the closure of all schools and churches in the 1970’s). Country consist some islands (including the main Bioko Island with the capital Malabo) and mainland. My surprise was great when I found out that in mainland Equatorial Guinea there is no Equator (lies south in neighboring Gabon).

We were entering the country and got first shock - suddenly I found out that I can’t speak Spanish anymore, because over the last few months almost every day I was using French. Now in my head remained mixture of both languages. Somehow however, locals understood me and we moved toward the coast. We knew from the guidebook that obligatory is to have "travel and photography permit”, which can be obtained only in capital Malabo or Bata, the largest city in interior. It was Saturday, so that would be loss of time to wait until Monday for the opening the offices - so we went without permission directly to the Monte Alen National Park, happily passing through numerous police check points. Moreover, the country is known as bribe experts - after a time our ambition was to cross the entire continent without a bribe. Here police controlled us several times, once over one hour checking with details our entire luggage – they were surprised when I refused to give them some donation.

Coming to Moka (base of Monte Alen National Park) officially we should have booked everything in Bata. It also could be helpful to bring food supplies, as in the local shop we were able to buy only tin of sardines, bread and rice. You do not have to worry about water – there is a lot. The park administration was closed, so we arranged the jungle trip with local man called Timote (5000 CFA per day per two persons and we had to provide food for him). We went together in the jungle in search of gorillas and forest elephants. Unfortunately this time we didn’t have luck with "guide", who has proved to have no idea about trail the game. He had no problem to throw litter and find his animal traps (poacher). In addition to encounter ants, mosquitoes, bees and other living insects we quickly lost the illusions to see gorillas or forest elephants. Timote provided to us, however, other "attractions" such as loss path (walking with the machete through dense bush) and orientation (he searched our way back in the opposite direction, which told me my compass). The second night we spent in the ECOFAC park hut near lakes (Lagos). On the last day we were continuous walking back for 13 hours, got total wet from rain and river crossing, hurt from thorny shrubs, bit by insects. But these three trekking days in the wild bush in some way have been wonderful. Timote brought home dead deer removed from the trap - well, the jungle feed him.

Then we visited Bata - nice, clean, vibrant city. In general all a bit expensive, so the next day we escaped and hitchhiked to Gabon direction. We were crossing border on wide river (1.5-hour motorboat trip) and with this pleasant accent was our farewell to Equatorial Guinea.

accommodation – in Bata Lonely Planet described Yessica hostel for 10,000 CFA per room with shared bathroom or 20,000 CFA with your own toilet. We found another one, just 50 meters away on the same side of the street in the sea direction. At that time there was no running water and we bargained price down to 8,000 CFA per room. Another option could be Apartaments Nnang Afang - in the barrio (district) Bisa, 100 meters from the Ayuntamiento (Town Hall), air-conditioned rooms for 20,000 CFA, and with fan for 10,000 CFA.
In Cogo I asked for prices in Hotel Buena Estrella, they demanded 3,000 CFA for a simple room.

transport – the first transfer to Niefangu we paid the same fare what to Bata. The bus traveled on new paved road. In contrast the road from Evinayong to Cogo, according to local information, behind Midybo village is impassable at this rainy season (May). We could continue to Acurenan but we preferred travel on the East Coast.

From Bata to Cogo are the minibuses for 4000 CFA, at least what the driver offered. Please note that in Mitam village now is a new road (built in January 2006, left turn in 90 degrees), which is much faster than the old one via Mbini.

If you are sailing to Cocobeach (Gabon), you should report it to the police to obtain the exit stamp in your passport. Then wait near the harbor for a motorboat to Gabon around noon time. Officials claimed some extra fees from us, but we refused and board the boat before they could react.

visa - the biggest problem to get to Equatorial Guinea is obtain the tourist visa. In the consulate in Youande we slowly beat bureaucracy levels, finally getting the audience with the consul. But he tried to kick us out in diplomatic way, explained that the law doesn’t let him issue the visas. He informed that only European embassies could do it (in Belgium, France, Spain or Russia). But we knew that the consul has a power and can grant or refuse any visa without justification. So we pushed him again and told the stories that would be great to visit such exotic country, describe it on website, show the slides, etc. When our effort seemed to fail and we started leave his room with empty hands - suddenly consul said that pity we don’t have any letter from our association. Excuse me, what letter? Please give me a fax number and one hour - I will bring this recommendation letter what you need. Consul couldn’t step back and I’ve run to internet cafe, prepared the fake recommendation letter in English and asked my Polish Travel Agency (where I previously worked) to put on the head letter magical power of signatures and stamps. Fax with our fake association finally came through and consul could not refuse a visa - we were lucky! This confirms that the consular department has no rule. The visa cost 37,000 CFA (56 €), valid for 7 days from the date of entry.

“Travel and photography” permit you can obtain in Bata in institute “Tourismo y Cultura”, located in the one floor house between the cathedral and the sea. We didn’t have this permit and no one ask for it.

In Africa you can try luck to obtain a visa in Cameroon, Gabon and Nigeria.