double entry in period from 2.08 to 15.08.09, a total of 12 days, currency rate 1 € = 6.2 TS (Tajik Somani)

highlights – I can describe Tajikistan in one word - mountains. Spectacular views, narrow winding unpaved tracks, quiet, fresh air, friendly people. I planned mainly to visit the Pamir Mountains, but the road through the Fan Range also proved to be a great experience, as well as area close to the Afghan Hindu Kush. Problems with car owners who were driving crazy on the narrow cliff roads was the only negative experience, but even with that, Tajikistan was the highlight of our trip.      

We began the journey in the Fan mountains. I immediately had to re-verify our trip pace – with those road conditions we won't go so fast. But there is always a positive side - frequent stops allowed us to wonder the beautiful red mountains views. I regretted that our visa was valid only two weeks, it did not allow us to do the side trips.       

Dushanbe itself hasn't amazed us, but we expected it - exclusive downtown built on heroin and opium profits, and everything out of the center needs the serious renovations. Tajikistan is a major corridor for drug smuggling from Afghanistan to the "West". It is said that the police, army and politicians have all hands in the bowl. However, Dushanbe has easy relaxed atmosphere, we felt safe and slept in a tent in the park (out of the center). Well, you do not have to register anymore in Tajikistan, what saved us a lot of time, as there was no need to run around the offices. The next day we went to the south – Afghanistan was our goal. But we came back to Tajikistan much faster than we thought (we heard Taliban's shooting - details in "Afghanistan").

Instead visit Afghanistan we decided to ride along the Afghan border as long as possible (more than 600km), we looked at their villages across the Pyanj River. It worth to remembered that a vast part of this border area is still mined, so do not walk too close to the river. We particularly remember the road between Kolab and Khorog, where narrow winding unpaved track was situated between the vertical cliff on one side and mountain river abyss on the other hand. A man wasn't driving with caution – with heavy truck he was over speeding on curves next to the deep canyon. When he saw a wider shoulder ahead, straight away he passed smaller cars. We were so scared and wanted to get off. Fortunately some other drivers turned out to be a little more rational, so we could focus on the views. And those in Tajikistan are exceptional.

Khorog is a small town, but compared to Morghab is like a city. Anyway we quickly escaped from it and went towards the Wakhan Valley, where the river separates not only the countries but also the mountain ranges. We were mainly focused on the southern side, which was dominated by 7-thousand meters high Afghan Hindu Kush mountains. Ishkashim is the first major village south of Khorog (region's capital). Here is a border check point with Afghanistan, where once a week, during the Saturday market tourists are allowed to enter the border zone (even without a visa) between the two countries (on the bridge and river islands). Tajik language is closely related to Farsi, not like more neighboring republics of former USSR to the Turkish language. So the Afghans, Tajiks and Iranians can understand each other. Admiring the scenery we took a bath in hot springs, we visited different villages, we hiked the mountains. From many places where you can take hot bath, the most we liked the Yamchun (Bibi Fatima). From the main road it requires turning off 8 km inland and climbing over 500 meters of altitude difference, but the pleasure is worth it. Official admission fee for foreigners is 10 TS per person. After leaving the bath (changing every 15 minutes for men and women), we pitched our tent near by with beautiful sunset at Hindu Kush. The next day while we were walking back to the main road (8 km by car or 4 km walk) we visited XIII-century Yamchun fortress, which was okay, but nothing extraordinary. From the Yamchun village the transport to the east was slowly becoming more difficult to find – there was almost no traffic and if finally someone was passing, generally already was over packed. We also admit that Wakhan Valley disappointed us a little bit - probably due to its size – it's too wide, what makes no feeling of the mountains size, as they are too far away.       

Eventually we arrived to Langar (2860 m, you can get here even by minibus, but only after the Saturday market in Ishkashim). The place is famous for its rock petroglyphs, but we were not interested in it. We came here for the views. I climbed the nearby slope (3800 m), from where a view was breathtaking. I even have seen the 7-thousand meters Pakistani Hindu Kush peaks. If it comes to photos, it's better do hike early morning, than the opposite hills are better illuminated. Finding any kind of vehicle in Alichur direction is always a challenge (there is no public transport at all), and in the afternoon or evening the chances even drop down close to zero. The first car owner offer us a lift to Alichur for 150 $, hmm, too expensive. We finally asked other tourists which previously we had met in the hot springs – small fee for Russian driver and local guide made a deal. They gave us a lift to the junction with Pamir Highway. The road from Langar is a picturesque and interesting. Once again we went right along the Afghan border, a couple of times we have spotted Bactrian camels, which are the main form of transport (we haven't seen a road or car on the Afghan side). Just before junction with the Pamir Hwy (next to the beautiful lakes: Tuz-Kul and Sassyk-Kul) we were getting off from the minibus when I looked on the passing Chinese truck. I was too far from the main road to see the driver, but I followed the truck with my eyes and it's stopped. The first time in my life I successfully hitchhiked by using only eyes! And that proved to be very helpful ride, as the traffic on this road was very low. Kashgar driver informed us that we can pay as much we want to. In Tajikistan hitchhiking is generally not free of charge and even that, you have to wait long enough. Of course you can travel for free, but you must have lot of extra time for it. Although the name of the Pamir Highway sounds very proud, in fact it is a very bumpy, old and narrow road (sometimes not paved). However mostly it doesn't lead along the river, but goes in the middle of the valleys, sometimes climbing the passes (with the highest one Ak-Bajtal, 4655m). There is no longer vertical cliff next to the road, as it was on the way to Khorog. Pamir Hwy has nearly 500 kilometers - from (2100 m) Khorog to (3900 m) Karakol (although it officially goes until Osh in Kyrgyzstan, but this part is different, both scenic and technically). For over one hundred years the army did not allow the tourism here – military strategic reasons. Changes occurred just in the last dozen years, now you need a special paper for this area. It's called GBAO permit - this is a purely bureaucratic requirement (the details in "visa").

Tajikistan belongs to one of the poorest in the region - the mountains are beautiful but not profitable (at least not like the Himalayas). Almost every Tajik family has someone working abroad (mainly in Russia), bringing cash into the country in similar amount what is the country total GDP, ie around 200 million dollars a year. Tajikistan is also the only country of the former Soviet Union where ethnic civil war occurred. Despite this, Tajik, Kirghiz and Pamiris are very nice and friendly people (the latter one wearing original hats). It was easy to make friends on the street, but the biggest objection when chat with them I had to one of their first questions - “How much do I earn in Poland”. Immediately they complained that a teacher here earns only 40 $ a month (people usually compare themselves to the richer one, they do not see that across the river is much poorer Afghanistan). In addition, during our Central Asia trip we never have met anyone who wouldn't be remember the Soviet Union as a period of general prosperity and happiness.

In Murgab House is the META tourist information (with internet, but does not work during the strong wind - a direct connection from the satellite). This round pink building is located at the end of the village on the road to the north on the right side. Here we pitched a tent for free. We also had hoped to buy a region topographic map and to obtain the necessary trekking information. They had no map on stock, but they allowed me to photograph the wall topographic one - I was able to read and enter the GPS coordinates. Unfortunately, the staff could only provide a standard trekking plan for two nearby places, assuming more driving than walking. Alternatively you can rent a bike, but still you have to somehow get to the mountains - so they offer you a car with a driver. The jeep rental price is around 0.55 $ per kilometer, while you need to consider the driver way back. I had an idea to hike around the Karakol Lake. Unfortunately, the META staff couldn't say much about this. I wanted to get to the Jingajir village – they offered jeep hire for 130 $ (120 km one way and a return = $ 0.55 x 120 x 2). Morghab looks big on the map, but in reality it's simply the largest village in the region, it has only 6,500 population. Although we are on Tajikistan territory, half of the town population are Kirghiz, and the surrounding villages are now completely dominated by them. Even the official time is at the same zone as Kyrgyzstan, not that one used in Dushanbe (1 hour difference). If you're planning trekking, I suggested you to bring a food to Murgab. Here the stock is poor – not many meat or fish cans you can find on the market. Some chocolate bars you might find, but it often look as it lay on the shelf for at least few years. The cash exchange will not be a problem, but finding an ATM that's an other story.

We have met a German tourist with his big yellow truck, which actually was his well-equipped house. Gunter travelled with no goals and time frames, so he agreed to take us to the starting point of our trekking. However, without a topographic map would be hard to find a track leading there, as wheel prints are everywhere, you need to know which to follow. The worst stretch was five km before the Jingair village - along the river flowing from the lake. I suggest to ride this part early in the morning, when should be an ice on the ground, instead of mud. Although the four-wheel drive truck worked well, we settled a few times on the wet ground, it looked like a forced campsite is almost sure. Adrenalin, sweat forehead, howling engine, leaning truck, crossing a river, deep ruts, etc. Over the last two hours we covered 20 km from the main road, but at the end we were lucky and reached the village before the dusk. Imagine our surprise when it turned out that a village was uninhabited. So we used an abandoned house for a night. The Jingair village is beautifully situated in the hidden valley next to the turquoise lake. If I had no problems with visa expiry dates I would climb for a whole day the nearby Urtabuz peak (5047m), which should offer a nice view of the lake (the summit is at the southern end of Karakol Lake). In the morning we said goodbye to our friend, who moved back until ground was numb from the cold. We took our 50-kilograms bags and started the trekking. We knew that it was about 100 km hike, and our visa had only five more days validity. If something would happen wrong with the orientation or if the river would become too large to cross, we could be in trouble. Also, the fact that a village was uninhabited, it gave us to think that since now we can only count on ourselves. We expected to be in total wilderness.

It's a real pleasure walk in the Pamirs valleys - long, deep, easy to navigate, without the steep approaches. The biggest obstacle turned out to be crossing strong current in the mountain rivers. As well a high altitude was a potential risk, as we were for five continuous days higher than four thousand meters above sea levels, where organism hasn't work so efficient as in the lowlands. The plan was to start from the Jingair village and go upstream along the Muzkol River until Kotali Qarachim Pass. Hence, we descended towards the Lenin Peak and Qarajilgha River, along which we should return to the main road around Marqansu, the last village before the Kyrgyzstan border.

Day 1 - 7 h hike, 26 km

From Jingair (3940 m, next to Karakol Lake) we went northwest by clear jeep path. After an hour of quick march we crossed the river (the track will take you to probably the safest place). The problem is a cold water and strong current. Trekking shoes are not the best when get wet, so we crossed the stream in the sandals – but feet quickly became almost frozen. Current was quite strong even in the summer, I think in the spring when snow melts, it may be a much bigger problem. The best way to cross the river is to go opposite the current, not in the same direction as the river, as you can easily lose your balance. Your backpack hip belt shouldn't be buckled, in case of fall it's easier to took it off - otherwise it might “help” you drown. If the crossing is too risky, try do it at morning, then usually the water level is lower. I was surprised when after 4 hours hiking (17 km), at the end of the valley, we found one inhabitant settlement (village no 1, Gar – 4120 m). There were few yurts, fenced farm, small footbridge. Two families live there - but this is only their summer camp. It turned out that those people live in Jingajir, but during the summer period they move themselves and inventory to the higher parts, for better pastures (they stay there until October-November). We talked with them in Russian, they were hospitable. The last time they saw other tourists (travelling by car) was the last year. After a noon siesta we went further north. After almost three hours of slowly walk (9 km) we encountered shepherd who led us to his settlement (village no. 3, Sajkonum – 4350 m). Immediately we were invited to a yurt for refreshments and accommodation. Then we exchanged some courtesy - they serves us milk, cream, yogurt and butter from yak (and tea with salt and butter), and we opened the fish can and gave them some candies. We watched the women's daily ritual work with animals (goats, sheep and yaks), because there is nothing more, no trees grow there, nor the vegetables or fruits (for burning fuel they are using animal droppings). We played with the kids, and the men shared information about the route. It turned out that all the inhabitants of these villages are not Tajik, but Kirghiz (as most in Murgab area – but most locals call themselves - Pamiris).

Day 2 - 3.5 h hike (+ 3 h side hike), 13.5 km (+ 8 km)

We left the village at morning and were traversing the hill, slowly gained some extra altitude. We passed from a greater distance the next village, but when children have seen us they started running towards us. After a together photo session we continued up to Qarachim Pass - the highest point on our route (4490 m, 4 km, 2 h walk from the last accommodation). After it we were descending for an hour to the last settlement, the same name as the pass (village no. 5, Qarachim, 4365 m). We already knew that we should be okay for visa purposes, because the locals assured us that the next river crossing should not be a major problem. As a result, I decided to do a side trip to the nearest summit. Ewelina stayed with the luggage and played with happy kids in the Qarachim settlement, and I began to climb the peak. After two hours I reached the summit (5075 m). The magnificent panorama of snow-capped Pamirs peaks, with dominating Lenin Peak (the current name is Koh-i-Istiqlal, it was less than 40 km as the crow flies, but the base camp is on the north side, in Kyrgyzstan). I regretted that I said to Ewelina I'll be back in a few hours. From the summit I could continue the hike on the ridge to the next, and the next summit. I had no time to do it, but this could be an interesting one day trip. I recharged my positive energy and just have ran downhill on scree to the Qarachim. After a snack with waiting for me local family, we went further on. But that day we didn't walk too far (from the settlement 6 km, 1.5 h hike, 4320 m), because at some point we saw such a beautiful meadow, so the decision to make a camp there could be the only one. Besides the cold, everything was perfect, especially because at night we had a luck to see the sky with often falling stars.

Day 3 - 5.5 h hike, 19 km

The next morning was as beautiful as the previous evening. But in warm sleeping bags we have waited until the sun's rays will reach our tent, still hidden in the shadow of great mountains. Finally we went out, had to brake blocks of ice to get a water, had a photo session, had breakfast and continued our journey. Following along the river we came to the end of the meadow. Here the stream starts to fall rapidly towards the huge valley to the north. I suggest to cross the river tn the western shore at the bottom - we did it before and due to some terrain difficulties we had to cross the icy water three times. Theoretically on the map there is still a road marked, but in reality 4x4 vehicle has no chance to pass this way - the furthest you can get is the Qarachim settlement. We descended 200 meters below to the main Qarajilgha River (4140 m, 5 km from the last camp, 2 h hike), but to cross this river in this place looked too dangerous, could be too deep. We couldn't see the bottom, and before reaching half the width of the river, water already was up to our waist (in the spring will be much worse). We had to turn back and march upstream in a west direction. Just after 10 minutes river become like a pool, which means a longer distance to cross, but much shallower. Our feet have “frozen” from the cold, but the river crossing was technically easy. In addition, there was very beautiful. After crossing the river to its north shore, we went down stream to the east, towards the main road. And here another surprise – we had to traverse a rocky field, cut by rivers which have flown from a glacier lying under the Lenin Peak. There was more than twenty rapid muddy streams. I was fighting with them to the end, seeking the most suitable place to jump over, but every third or fourth stream I was forced to change my shoes. Evelina gave up and continued trekking in the wet boots. Once we left the “wet battle rocky field”, scree still occurred but at least we were dry.

Day 4 - 7.5 h hike, 29 km

Hooves clatter woke us up at morning. I quickly jump out from the tent and from approximately distance of 100 meters I've seen two running Marco Polo sheep. When they saw me – I had a show of sprinting animals. Officially there is a ban on hunting Marco Polo, but often we have seen wheel prints, rusted cans and gun cartridges. Besides, when it comes to wild animals, the Pamir is not the best place. In addition to sheep we saw only marmots, but plenty of them. Seeing a bear or snow leopard you can rather forget. However, we hiked to reach the road as soon as possible. River began to turn in a southerly direction towards the lake, but we continued to the east. And it was probably a mistake, because finally we haven't seen clearly the beautiful colour of Karakol Lake (only from the distance). In addition the way we walked turned out to be a tragic. You can continue hike along the river, perhaps it would be beautiful, but certainly at least one day longer. We left the river and the way was becoming look like remnants of quarries - mounds of rocks, scree, sand, like a moon landscape in a negative sense. In addition, there was a lack of water sources. Practically the entire day we were searching the best track option, going down and climb again on the stone mounds. In the evening we finally reached the "corner", where we could say goodbye to the valley behind our backs and we saw the paved road ahead. The fast descend and eventually we reached the target (4060 m). We were tired, sat down on the Pamir Hwy and took off the trekking shoes, ate the rest of the food stock. For the full happiness we needed a water and a lift. But after a while of “zero traffic” we decided to look for the Marqansu village, which is marked on the map. What's surprise – we had a problem to get up - it turned out that sandals soles and backpacks were “glued” to the asphalt! Despite the evening cold and high altitude the asphalt was melting - that is the quality, no wonder there are so deep ruts. Unfortunately, we did not find Marqansu. We have seen a river were should be a village, but it was so polluted, that our purification pills wouldn't work on it. For the another two hours (8 km) still no vehicle has passed, and to the border point remains 9 km. When we looked for a place to pitch a tent, two Scottish tourists joined us. Hmm, they had no space in the car to gave us a lift, but they had a water ceramic filter, and we had a warm dinner in a good company.

Day 5 - 2.5 h hike, 9 km

It was the last day of our visa validity but we didn't have to hitchhike anymore, because we could reach the border point on foot. We were there already by 10 am, and a little drank guards couldn't understand that we have no car. Well, during checking our backpacks they tried to confiscate my knife, claiming that one is illegal. I told them firmly but with a smile, that the knife is legal and I won't give it to them. Finally we received stamps in our passports and we continued climbing the pass (4295 m), from where we could look at Kyrgyzstan (to Kirghiz border check point is still over 10 km descend).

 

Summary: Our 4.25 day hiking (105 km), all the time with clear sky, has brought an incredible experience, a total isolation from civilization (the last 3 days), calm and enjoy from being in such beautiful place. If someone plans the trekking in a similar area after arrival from Kyrgyzstan, please consider the altitude sickness risk. Technically to find a transport from Osh to Tajikistan is not a problem - but to make almost 2000 meters altitude difference in 24 hours might have negative effects on our body. I propose several days of acclimatization before trekking. Coming from Khorog (2100 m) there is no such a problem, because we gain altitude slowly - length and road quality would not allow do it fast.       

Here are the route details with GPS coordinates, walking time and the actual distance between the points (not as the crow flies).

point 1	point 1 altitude	GPS - point 1	point 2	time and distance between points 1 & 2
Jingajir	3940 m	N 38° 52.154' E 073° 16.438'	Gar (village 1)	4 h 15'	17 km
Gar (village 1)	4120 m	N 38° 56.153' E 073° 07.089'	Sajkonum (village 3)	2 h 45'	9 km
Sajkonum (village 3)	4350 m	N 39° 00.464' E 073° 06.292'	Qarachim Pass	1 h 15'	4 km
Qarachim Pass	4490 m	N 39° 02.279' E 073° 07.054'	Qarachim (village 5)	45'	3.5 km
Qarachim (village 5)	4365 m	N 39° 04.023' E 073° 06.411'	summit	2 h	4 km
summit	5075 m	N 39° 05.528' E 073° 07.063'	Qarachim (village 5)	1 h	4 km
Qarachim (village 5)	4360 m	N 39° 04.023' E 073° 06.411'	beautiful meadow	1 h 30'	6 km
beautiful meadow	4320 m	N 39° 06.572' E 073° 05.023'	Qarajilgha River	2 h	5.5 km
Qarajilgha River	4140 m	N 39° 08.831' E 073° 05.076'	beginning of stones	6 h	24 km
beginning of stones	-	-	turn (rock wall)	2 h 30'	8 km
turn (rock wall)	4110 m	N 39° 14.681' E 073° 22.661'	Pamir Hwy	45'	3 km
Pamir Hwy	4060 m	N 39° 15.991' E 073° 22.928'	border Pass	4 h	17 km
border Pass	4295 m	N 39° 23.054' E 073° 19.389'	-	-	-
			total	29 h	105 km

accommodation – come to Tajikistan without a tent is a sin. It's not about savings but about the independent movement, at your own pace, without worry what to do at dusk. If you are not interested in trekking or just focused on organized tours, you're absolved. During our trip we slept in a tent in the wild 8 times.

At the beginning of our trekking, in the Jingair village, we slept in an abandoned house. In the Sajkonum settlement we were invited to stay in the yurt. During hitchhiking in Kulab town, one Tajik has offered us hospitality in his house.       

In Langar (Wakhan Valley) we went to the guesthouse, where our tourist friends were sleeping and promised us to give a lift the next day. We agreed on price with a host - night in our tent costs 5 $ per person plus breakfast and dinner for another 5 $ (other visitors paid 15 $ for sleeping in a room with the same meals). An additional advantage was a shower (cold) possibility.

 

 

transport – travelling in Tajikistan began with unpleasant surprises - there are no buses here. It is true that you can use collective taxis, but unfortunately they are very expensive. And besides, they leave when full. It also ruined my schedule plan - the first 250 km (from the border to the capital) took us over 8 hours. Well, we even did not have comfortable seats – we fit in the trunk. I think I do not need to add that bargaining is essential. Knowledge of Russian language increases the chance for better price. Our system was the hitchhiking (unfortunately not for free) - at the town exit we could managed to negotiate a pretty reasonable price, compared to those offered to us at taxi stands in the town center. The exception from this rule was Dushanbe - minibus terminal have fixed prices and timetable.

Hitchhiking is easy in most places in the country. Unfortunately, very little traffic is between Langar and junction with Pamir Highway, as well as north from Murgab (between Dushanbe and Murgab a lot of Chinese trucks run, but they turn off in Murgab into Kashgar direction).

Big disadvantage in this country is a crazy driving. Unfortunately, you are not able to predict it before entering the vehicle. A few times we wanted get off from the machine. Apogee was on route to Khorog when the truck driver with a long trailer looked something on the cabin ground without making attention on the road - horror! We thought that once we won't make safe a sharp curve, he drove too fast. Several times it was close enough for an accident if a similar madman would drive from the opposite direction. And on our left hand was a vertical cliff, and on the other hand the abyss straight to the river. At night the situation improved a bit, because at least you could see the light of cars coming from the opposite direction. After this kind of ride our muscles were numb and exhausted. During all Central Asia journey I can complain for drivers lack of imagination only here, in Georgia and Mongolia. In other countries we felt much safer while driving.       

On this route two countries also have an unpleasant habit of paying bribes for nothing. In Uzbekistan and Tajikistan the policemen have an easy life (detailed description in Uzbekistan “transport” ).

Another thing to watch out is the payment for a ride. I didn't agree to pay in advance (sometimes I paid the deposit, but still after the departure, never before). I had heard some stories about unfair drivers, for exp. tourist who paid in advance and then the driver didn't want to go, or changed the price, vehicle, date of departure, etc.

In Dushanbe urban buses cost 0.60 TS (0.1 €).

When driving your own vehicle it's sometimes difficult to find a petrol station. Even in Murgab there is not one. You have to find people who will sell you fuel - with Gunter we were looking for oil to his truck. Finally we found, but the price was reaching 4 TS per liter (0.65 €) after bargain.

Regarding the border with Afghanistan in Panji-Payan - it cannot be cross on foot. You have to take a minibus to the official checkpoint in Tajikistan (10 S for 1 km drive, 1.6 €), and then to cross the bridge over Panj River (later becoming Amu Darya) for another 10 S (500 meters), to the Afghan check point.

day	destination	transport	price in TS	€/ per	duration	km
26	Uzbekistan border - Panjikent	minibus	3 $/ 2 per	€1.1	20'	15
26	Panjikent - Ayni	jeep (boot)	9 $/ 2 per	€3.2	2 h	93
27	Ayni - Dushanbe	hitchhiking	10 €/ 2 per	€5.0	6.5 h	162
28	Dushanbe - Kolkhozabad	minibus	10 TS	€1.6	2.5 h	120
28	Kolkhozabad - Dosti	minibus	3 TS	€0.5	30'	29
28	Dosti - Panji-payan	shared taxi	10 TS/ 2 per	€0.8	30'	25
28	Panji-payan - Tadzhik border	minibus	10 TS/ per	€1.6	2'	1
28	Tadijikistan border - Afghanistan border	minibus	10 TS/ per	€1.6	1'	0.5
one day staying in Afghanistan
29	Tadzhik border - Panji-payan	minibus	10 TS/ per	€1.6	2'	1
29	Panji-payan - Qorghan-Teppa	jeep	10 TS	€1.6	2 h	89
29	Qorghan-Teppa - Kulab	shared taxi	20 TS/ per	€3.2	2 h	154
30	Kulab - Shuraabad	shared taxi	5 TS/ per	€0.8	1 h	40
30	Shuraabad - Qalakhum	2x hitchhiking	30 TS	€4.8	6 h	125
30	Qalakhum - Khorog	hitchhiking	45 TS	€7.2	6.5 h	239
31	Khorog - Ishkashim	jeep	25 TS	€4.0	3 h	112
31	Ishkashim - Bibi Fatima	jeep	20 TS	€3.2	2 h	79
32	Bibi Fatima - Yamchun	walk	-	-	1 h	4
32	Yamchun - Shirgin	jeep	15 TS/ 2 per	€1.2	45'	35
32	Shirgin - Langar	hitchhiking	-	-	15'	15
33	Langar - Pamir Highway	minibus with tourists	50 TS/ per	€8.1	4 h	108
33	Pamir Hwy - Murgab	hitchhiking	20 TS	€3.2	2.5 h	126
34	Murgab - Jingajir	truck	-	-	5 h	125
35 - 39	Jingajir - Kyrgyzstan border	walk	-	-	5 days	105
	city transport	bus, minibus	3 TS/ per	€0.5	-	-
				€55		1802

visa – I found on Internet forum a information that visa can be handled at the embassy in Berlin or Vienna – just send them an envelope with your passport, the completed visa application, proof of bank transfer, a letter explaining what you need, your return addressed envelope. Of course sending documents by mail is always a risk. I read also news (unconfirmed) that the visa can be obtained at the Dushanbe airport (but not on the land borders).

We applied for a visa through an agency, in our case it was probably the best option. Single entry, two weeks visa costs 40 € (50 € monthly one, and a double entry for extra 10 €). Unfortunately the enter and exit dates of your visa must be filled at time of application – visa is not valid from the entry day, but from the fixed dates which you applied – no good idea if you like travelling style “go with the flow”. You do not need a letter of invitation (LOI) if applying outside of Central Asia, otherwise you might be asked for this kind of document. To obtain a visa it shouldn't take longer than a week.

A very important point is to obtain a visa with permission to travel to the Pamirs. Such authorization is called GBAO (Gorno Badakhshan Autouomous Oblast ). This document (paper or passport stamp) shows regions which you can enter. Make sure you have them written exp. Khorog, Ishkashim, Murgab etc. Not all embassies issue such a permit together with the visa, and unfortunately there is no rule about this. I got mine through embassy in Minsk, Belarus. Otherwise you can apply for GBAO in Dushanbe, but the price might be above 50 $, and waiting time may reach a week.

Tajikistan has embassies in most countries of the former USSR, as well as in Austria, Belgium, Germany and Iran.

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