26.08 to 7.09.2009, 12 days, currency rate 1 € = 214 T (Tenge)
highlights – Kazakhstan is the largest and richest country in Central Asia (mainly thanks to a huge oil fields in the Caspian Sea). Wealth obviously doesn't not go to all citizens, but the cities are reasonably well developed, opposed to the countryside. There were some ecological disasters - such as the Aral Sea (description in Uzbekistan), devastation of hundred thousands square kilometers of land near the Semey, where nuclear tests were hold, etc. However this country is huge - there are places in the Western Kazakhstan where residents are closer to Poland than to Almaty (formerly Alma Ata). Paradoxically, it is also the most bureaucratic country in Central Asia. The effects of this we felt "through" compulsory registration, where officers took our passports for four days! (details in “visa”). However, we will remember our staying in Kazakhstan quite well, thanks to the people we met - the casual ones from a city bus, cafe, shop, during hitchhiking, camping, etc, and as well thanks to our couchsurfing (CS) hosts. In Almaty we spent our days with cheerful Tania and Vladimir, which allowed us to relax after an official bureaucratic fight. We arranged a party with their other CS guests - party had attractions such a fire, but fortunately not our bag burnt. Moreover, in Almaty we felt like in Poland, the suburbs have a similar atmosphere which we experienced during our childhood. And the country's largest city looks very European. The only pity that Internet is expensive (the most expensive in Central Asia, start from 1.2 € /h). You can relax in the Panfilov Park, admire the city skyline from the Kok-Tobe Hill, take a walk in Tian-Shan in the south end of town (minimum a full-day excursion.)
During the weekend we went to Charyn Canyon (900 m, N 43°20.998 'E 79°04.815'). The idea was to have a relaxing peaceful trip. At the bus station people of good will, but poor knowledge, pointed us the minibus. The driver also ensured that he knows where we should get off. However, near the bridge over the Charyn River was the police check point - and we were without the passports. The police told us to return to Almaty. We were furious and screamed on the cops, we demanded a written statement that they forbid us to travel with passport photocopies along with a letter from their police authority, confirming our original passport temporary residence. After a long deliberation the police finally allowed us to walk along the canyon's river (but they have the right to return us). We went confident in the dark gravel road, as we were sure that the canyon is some 12-15 km ahead. At this point we had no idea that the proper canyon is over 40 km away from here.
At the morning our good mood was broken by the fact that the gravel road just ended. Searching the way along the river proved to be tiring and time-consuming, so we climbed up the flat steppe. Without any interesting views we marched half a day. When the GPS showed already 12 km in the crow flies, we decided to descend to the river to not miss the most beautiful part of the canyon, called Valley of Castles. Another reason was to resupplies the water. Hiking along the river proved again to be a real nightmare - a very steep slopes forced us “slaloming” among the rocks with a maximum speed of 1 km /h. After a while we have given up and decided to climb back onto the steppe. We have chosen not the best place for climbing, the slope was too steep. We used legs and arms to support ourselves against loose screes, we were afraid to slip down. Once we've climbed up the steppe, the GPS indicated 300 m away from the point where we have been five hours earlier. Day was completed with the following attractions: hissing snake on the path and the night in the tent with a lightning storm.
The next day we followed two different tracks leading to nowhere, after it we mentally gave up. A few hours later we have seen a car through binoculars, first one, then second, third, etc. 15 cars together! We were so excited and almost run in their direction, it should be our destination! The shortest way once again proved to be not the best option – descending and climbing ridges, crossing the smaller canyons, but finally our over 40-km hike has finished. We came to the parking lot, where people shared water with us. From here the way the way to the canyon was going down stairs, to its beautiful part known as the Valley of Castles. That's more than two-kilometer track on dried canyon bottom with red vertical walls (up to 100 m high) carved by wind and water (columns, towers and other irregular rock formations). This view during this trek rewarded the previous effort. At the end of this road there is the camping next to the Charyn River. I recommend to stay there overnight, but please be careful when bathing in the river - underwater currents have drown more than one victim. In this incredible scenery we pitched our tent, the neighbors have invited us for a tea and the campsite host has brought us a watermelon. Later on the official ticket inspectors when hearing our story why we missed the entry gate, instead to give us penalties or demand a bribe, they surprisingly exempted us from the payment (normally 300 T, 1.4 €).
The next day we were sightseeing the nearby area, there are many pathways. I also propose to climb the higher ridges of the Castle Valley to look for 
different views from the different perspectives. We met some other tourists and they gave us a lift back to Almaty, this time driving only 12-km on the gravel road, after what we reached a paved road. The prettiest part of the canyon is certainly Valley of Castles, but our accidentally journey has allowed us to discover a new, empty, deeper (walls up to 300 m) and completely wild Charyn Canyon. I agree to call this canyon the micro version of Grand Canyon.
In theory that should be the end of our honeymoon - but we had no idea that bureaucrats will extend it for further two months. Due to visa reasons we couldn't go to China yet, so we applied for the neighboring visas - Russian and Mongolian. So, unexpected we found ourselves in the train going through the whole Kazakhstan - we looked through the windows for the endless steppes of this 9th largest country in the world. As it happens in the “plackartnyj” class (the carriage has 54 beds), this is a meeting place and time for a long conversations, as we had 33 hours of journey to share. Prior to the Russian border there was a small panic in the train. Women were trying to give their excess baggage to other passengers, we helped them with taking caps, jackets, shoes and some alcohol. On the border silent and some fear came on board, but for us the control proceeded smoothly and quickly.
accommodation – in Almaty the cheapest accommodation option is a fourth floor dorm university "The Third Dormitory." The entrance is from Satpaev St. (LP saying Ualikhanova St). The reception is on 1st floor (US 2nd floor). Overall, the building is occupied by families, school and sports groups. Anyway when we came there, we were informed that there are no bed vacancies. After a pressure it turned out that one male space is available, but nothing for female. A bit more pressure and we got two beds in 4-beds empty dormitory. For double room you pay 1500 T /per (7 €), in dorm 1000 T for a bed. The problem in this hostel is a bathroom - there's only one shower for the entire floor. We must wait patiently, so I was taking the key from the reception desk in the morning, no queuing compare to the evening. The other disadvantage of this hostel is lack of a common room, so people do not have a place to meet.
| town | hotel and address | N | accommodation | price per night | €/ per | note | comments |
| Almaty | Third Dormitory, LP, corner of Satpaeva and Ualikhanova St. | 4 | dormitory | 1000 T/ per | €4.7 | 5 | shower problem |
| in wild | 4 | tent | |||||
| couchsurfing | 3 | ||||||
| in transport | 1 | minibus | |||||
| 12 | €19 (4) |
transport – is fairly well organized, but also relatively expensive. In Almaty there are two bus and train stations. For longer journeys trains are much more comfortable. Tickets can be purchased at many places in the city, they look like small shops with blue-yellow board, inside is a woman with a computer. The cashier was very nice to us and even though there were no seats available on the train which we wanted to go, she figured out other opportunity to travel in one carriage, and the next day changed it to another. Class "plackartnyj is much cheaper than "kupejnyj" and in my opinion is even better. First, in "kupe " you are closed in a 4-person compartment 
- if you were alone and you would stay with three big drank guys, you wouldn't feel safe, and if you met a boring company, the only your good book would save you. In "plackartnyj" all passengers are looking on each other - this is a one big carriage with 54 beds, no doors between. It's not too easy to be robbed (unless you are too much trustful), and if you have a bottom bed you can sleep totally relaxed on your luggage closed under. And being in “plackartnyj” you will have a company - but you should be happy about that. Travelers help each other, share a food, talk - there are so many of them that always be someone who suits you. Officially you should pay for bed sheets 250 T (1 €), but we had our silk liner and sleeping bag.
Here are the instructions how to get to Charyn Canyon from Almaty - take a minibus or bus that goes to Kegen. Get off before the Charyn River (you won't see the river), on the top of the hill is an intersection with the gravel road to the left (1300 m, N 43°20.817' E 78°55.683'). From here it is only 12 km walk (or hitchhiking) to the canyon. Do not go in Shonzha direction, like they told us. It looked they had the good intentions, but lack of knowledge.
If you decide to take a bus in Kazakhstan, here's some example prices from Almaty: to Semey 1189 km, 3900 T (18 €); to Zharkent (near the Chinese border) 331 km, 1,000 T (5 €), Urumchi (China), 7000 T (33 €) - the trip takes 24 hours, bus leaves daily at 7 am (the train is more expensive and slower). City buses cost 50 T (0.2 €), but they operating until 10 pm. Then you can catch quite cheap taxis – late night 10-minute ride we paid just 400 T /2 per (less than 1 € per person).
If we did not get a Russian visa on time, we would fly to Olgi in Mongolia. The SCAT airline is departing Almaty on Wednesdays, costs over 200 $.
From the Kirghiz border (Karkara Valley) there is a lack of public transport, so we travelled by hitchhiking. We passed Charyn Canyon very close, but long weekend was coming and registration was our priority – in this case first we went to Almaty, and two days later we returned to the canyon (unfortunately from the wrong side - the explanation in "highlights").
| day | destination | transport | price in T | €/ per | duration | km |
| 50 | Kyrgyzstan border - Almaty | hitchhiking | 1300 T/ 2 per | €3.0 | 4.5 h | 272 |
| 52 | Almaty - Charyn River | minibus | 700 T | €3.3 | 4.5 h | 210 |
| 53-55 | Charyn River - Charyn Canyon | walk | - | - | 2 days | 43 |
| 55 | Charyn Canyon - Almaty | hitchhiking | - | - | 4.5 h | 210 |
| 61-63 | Almaty - Baranul (Russia) | night train plackartnyj | 7200 T | €33.6 | 33 h | Kaz. 1150 Russia 350 |
| city transport | taxi, bus, tram | 1450 T/ per | €6.8 | - | - | |
| €47 | 1885 |
visa – it's one of the easiest to obtain from all Central Asian countries. Just go to the nearest embassy with application form, photograph, a letter explaining the visiting reason, 15 € payment (plus banking commission) and after five days waiting you have monthly tourist visa! Unfortunately the enter and exit dates of your visa must be filled at time of application – visa is not valid from the entry day, but from the fixed dates which you applied – no good idea if you like travelling style “go with the flow”. You do not need a letter of invitation (LOI) if applying outside of Central Asia, otherwise you might be asked for this kind of document.
Kazakhstan is the most bureaucratic country on our route. The worst thing is the mandatory registration - within five calendar days from the arrival date you must register with the Immigration Office or in the police station (but not at any police station). Immigration Office in Almaty is open Mon-Wed and Fri, from 10 to 12. Receiving documents is after 5 pm. Registration costs 804 T (3.8 €). If you didn't know the office working days or hours, and happened that Thursday is your last day of registration - that you are unlucky and would be punished for breaking the law. That happened to our French friends, who came on Thursday in their last day of registration - the next day they had to put money into the passports to avoid official punishment what costs perhaps 12,000 T (56 €). Besides an office in Almaty is a nightmare - chaos, screams, customer fighting, people behaving like animals - no culture, no queues, 
nothing in order, there are also lack of instructions where and what you need to do. For many foreigners it was a shock - best to ask the other tourists, someone should knows something. If you try to leave Kazakhstan without the two stamps in the migration card (the first stamp you received when entry the country, and the second one must be from the registration), then you pay a high penalty, together with the prohibition to enter Kazakhstan for the next 5 years.
Another bureaucratic nonsense is no possibility to extend a tourist visa. There was no chance, even through the agencies - you are entitled to stay in the country for a maximum 30 days. We still were waiting for our Chinese work visa at the time. We had to arrange in priority processing (read: twice more expensive) another visa to leave Kazakhstan on time. The positive side of this decision is the fact that our trip was unexpectedly extended for Russian Altai Republic and Mongolia (where we continued issues with Chinese visa).
Kazakhstan has embassies in most countries of the former USSR, as well as in Poland, France, Germany, Great Britain and Iran.