12.07 to 14.07.09, 2 days, currency rate 1 € = 507 D (Dram)
highlights – Armenians has showed the class. Free hitchhiking, hospitality, a willingness to talk and help. Only in Georgia and Armenia I felt I could leave safely my luggage in the minibus and go for town sightseeing (knowing the driver just a minute). People here are really trustworthy. Armenia is beautifully situated on a plateau. There are treeless meadows, gorges, valleys cut by rivers, rocky shelves, and old monasteries hid among them.
The powerful storm greeted us at the border. But after it, calm and wonderful light with a double rainbow - welcome to Armenia. In the evening we arrived to Gyumri, the second biggest city of the country. The driver took us out of the city center to search spot for tent. We pitched our small house between the buildings and it seems to be safe. Shortly a nearby factory workers came to us, they talked, showed family pictures, brought some water, etc. They confirmed the security version.
We were getting closer to Yerevan when the driver offered that he may take us to the Echmiadzin. We got out with the backpacks in front of the holy place. There are offices of Catholicos of All Armenians, the equivalent of Christian pope. The local basilica is considered to be one of the oldest Christian church in the world – but it didn't look so old for me. However, it was built between the fourth and fifth century (various sources), when Armenia was the only official Christian country in the world. We specifically did not like the atmosphere of this holy pilgrimage place (maybe during the holidays things are improving). We found out a lot nicer atmosphere in the nearby Gayane church (VII c), where there were much less visitors and the stone building had "something more".
We liked Yerevan, space and a lot of green parks. For us the most interesting place in the capital is Matenadaran, a museum dedicated to the pride of the Armenian nation – manuscripts. (Open 10-5, Tuesdays to Saturdays). Volumes collected here represent an enormous cultural heritage of the country. In the fifth century monk Mesrop Mashtots created a unique Armenian alphabet and translated the Bible into that language. This was the beginning of a gigantic work, since it has begun translation of the greatest books of world literature, history, philosophy, medicine, etc. It has become a challenge for many monks. Unlucky geographical layout of the Armenian Highland caused that country has always been attacked by its powerful neighbors - Turkey and Persia. Residents learned how to survive in such circumstances, harassed by bloodthirsty invaders. Running away Armenians have spread all over the world carrying with them the most valuable thing - a piece of national identity
in form of manuscript. Currently Armenia population is 3 million people, but beyond its borders as much as 8 million Armenian lives. Nation mentality create a believe that as long as their books survive, the Armenian culture and tradition survive as well. The museum has the largest collection of manuscripts in the world. They are protected even for the nuclear war event - books are stored in cave carved in the rock (like monasteries, where monks created them). Museum can be visited on your own, there are two rooms (normal/student 700/200 D, 1.4/0.4 €), but we strongly recommend to take a guide (in English, we were paying an additional 2,500 D/2 persons, 5 €). She tells the story with passion, explains the technique, gives some interesting tales etc. I liked one story of the manuscripts, when the escaping locals were not able to carry 50 kg book - so they cut it in and hid in different places around the world. After many years someone managed to find those two halves and now we can see it here. Without the guide this visit would not be so interesting. Due to the destructive effects of daylight on the natural colors used in manuscripts, inside the museum is a bit dusk, and of course cameras are not allowed.
In the evening we went see the sights of nearby Garni. In contrast to the churches and monasteries in Armenia, here we had to pay for entry fee (normal/student 1000/250 D, 2/0.5 €). Garni Fortress is located on the cliff, it dates before Christ period but not much ruins left. There is also restored temple, very similar to Greek style with 24 columns around it. The site is on the way between Yerevan and Geghard, it's worth to have a look and enjoy the picturesque setting of the complex.
As in many places in Armenia, it's also possible to find an old monastery in Geghard. This is a place of special charm. Legend said, that into this monastery was brought the spear (Geghard means spear), which has hurt Christ's during the crucifixion (today this relic is stored in the Echmiadzin's Basilica). Inside the chapel is a magical atmosphere, but I must point out, that I like the stone structures very much. There are several large chambers with four symbolic simple columns, small windows which let get inside a bit of sunlight, 
but there is a cold, dusk, smell of incense and peaceful silence. I could imagine how a thousand years ago monks worked on manuscripts in a similar condition. I also recommend to go to the first floor, where through the holes in the walls you can observe the lower room and listen to the echoes. Some stone chapels are from the XIII century, but the part of the complex carved in the rock dates back nine centuries earlier. We were looking around admiring the caves, chapels, carved decorative monolith crosses. The whole valley has been chosen by the locals as a perfect place for a picnic. There is more than a dozen grills, tables and benches along the river. We also decided to pitch our tent there.
Unfortunately Armenia has a very tense relation with Azerbaijan, the border is closed between the two countries. We preferred to be careful when talking about our plans, we did not want to be involved (details in chapter Azerbaijan “visa”). So we had to return to Georgia to enter Azerbaijan. On the way to Georgia we visited another monastery, 
we have chosen Sanahin. As usual with Armenian monasteries, they are located in the mountains overlooking the valley. Beside there is a cemetery with region characteristic pattern - grave plate is inscribed with name, date of birth and death, but on the other side a portrait of the deceased is painted. The monastery was okay, but in Armenia the most impressive was Geghard. From Sanahin we descended to the town and went to the bar to eat something. There were two funny guys, and when we introduced ourselves, one guy hearing my name "Misha" opened a bottle of vodka and made a toast "let drink for Misha”. We had a good time with them and it is a pity that we had to run away, but our transit visa was valid just a few more hours. We got to the border by a reliable free hitchhiking.
| town | site | price in D | €/ per | duration | note | comments |
| Echmiadzin | Basilica and Gayane church | - | - | 2 h | ok | |
| Yerevan | Matenadaran Museum entry fee | student 200 D | €0.4 | 1 h | worth | normal 700 D |
| Matenadaran Museum guide | 2500 D/ 2 per | €2.5 | guide in English | |||
| Garni | Garni Fortress | student 200 D | €0.4 | 1 h | ok | normal 1000 D |
| Geghard | Geghard Monastery | - | - | 2 h | worth | |
| Sanahin | Sanahin Monastery | - | - | 1 h | ok | |
| €3 |
accommodation – We spent here only two nights - both in a wild in tent. However, in Yerevan the cheapest accommodation can be found by a friendly and helpful tourist information (internet 500 D /h, 1 €). Girls will print for you a list of private homestays including the prices and telephone numbers. Staff can even make a call to the owner and try to arrange the meeting. Prices usually start at 5000 D per night per person (10 €), but couple offers were at half that price.
transport – minibus drivers are honest and carrying a backpack is for free. Hitchhiking is easy but not always free of charge.
The Yerevan trolleybuses, buses and minibuses cost 100 D (0.2 €), while the metro is at half that price.
There should be no problem hitchhiking back from Geghard when crowds are returning from the picnics.
| day | destination | transport | price in D | €/ per | duration | km |
| 5 | Akhalkalaki (Georgia) - Gyumri | hitchhiking | data in Georgia | 2.5 h | Georgia 41 Armenia 55 | |
| 6 | Gyumri - Echmiadzin | hitchhiking | 2500 D/ 2 per | €2.5 | 2 h | 110 |
| 6 | Echmiadzin - Yerevan | minibus | 250 D | €0.5 | 30' | 23 |
| 6 | Yerevan - Garni | minibus | 250 D | €0.5 | 30' | 29 |
| 6 | Garni - Geghard | taxi | 1000 D/ 2 per | €1.0 | 15' | 8 |
| 7 | Gerghard - Yerevan | walk, hitchhiking + minibus | 250 D | €0.5 | 1.5 h | 5 + 32 |
| 7 | Yerevan - Alaverdi - Sanahin | minibus | 1500 D | €3.0 | 3.5 h | 160 |
| 7 | Sanahin - Alaverdi | minibus no 3 | 100 D | €0.2 | 10' | 5 |
| 7 | Alaverdi - Georgian border | 2x hitchhiking | - | - | 1 h | 40 |
| city transport | bus, trollybus, metro | 250 D/ per | €0.5 | - | - | |
| €9 | 467 | |||||
visa – You can arrange a visa to Armenia at home country, but it is a waste of time and money. You have to wait 7 days, visa is valid for 4 months from the date of issue and you can stay in Armenia up to 21 days, visa costs € 35. Currently, such visas can be obtained at the land border - tourist one for 15.000 D (30 €), while transit visa for 10.000 D(20 €). The latter one is valid for 3 days. Unfortunately the guard made a mistake and printed us one tourist visa - there was no chance to reverse this process. Payment for the visa is in local currency, they accepted the normal euro currency rate after the negotiations.
Departing the Armenia by air you have to pay $ 20, but fortunately there are no fees at land borders.