4.08 to 5.08.09, 1 day, currency rate 1 € = 73 A (Afgani)
highlights – I have heard that north of the country is safe. Mainly Shiites live there, they are not religious fanatics, and even have a lot of conflicts with Muslims. So we decided that Afghanistan is a perfect place for a honeymoon:) We were hoping that in so avoided by tourists place, should live nice and hospitable people. When we were applying for a visa at Warsaw embassy, they have no objection to travel there. Just in case I even went to the Afghan embassy in Tajikistan for the latest information. Embassy staff were listening to me, looked at the map and confirmed that we can easily go there - “everything is in order”. Now I know that the embassies are not the best source of information.
We entered the country over the bridge on Panj River (later called Amu -Darya). Here we met other Poles on motorbikes. They were not allowed to enter the Afghanistan. “Why?” - I asked. “Because it is dangerous, the Taliban” - I got a response. I was shocked, I've asked yesterday at the embassy. Unfortunately the realities are different. Adrenaline started spin in my brain. On one hand - fear, but it really was still lack of information. I didn't give up so easily - we were allow to enter the country, because we didn't have our own vehicles.
Local people explained to us that we should stay today in Sher Khan Bandar, because after lunch (3 pm) the police shifts end and the Taliban often are coming out – travelling is too risky. Whoops, and I thought it would be so beautiful. But they still gave us some hope - if the evening is not the best time to travel, what's about tomorrow morning? “Okay, tomorrow morning you can safely go to Kunduz, then the next morning to the next village, and so on”. It was an option.
Policeman who speaks English invited us to his car, because he was coming back to the town after finished his work. First we drove to the river bank and he showed us the nearby field – "Over there we were shooting with Taliban today". We tried to figure out if he wants to frighten us or give us a warning. Then he gave us a ride around the town, but we were forbidden to show our faces from the rear windows. After sightseeing he took 
us to the municipal building (earlier he said that it's not a safe place to stay, as there are no armed guards or any other form of security). Servants were consternating but they took care about us - they gave us a office with a bed, fan and desk. When we asked whether we can go outside, everyone started waving hands to let us know that we are not allowed. We just wanted to go behind the corner, to the nearest shop, at least that was our excuse. "Tell me what do you need and I'll bring it to you" – a response which we didn't want to hear. Moment later they delivered us snacks and water, and then we were closed in the room. It was like in prison! After two hours we tried to go to the bathroom – boys who worked there gave us an escort (no individual walks).
Our police officer came back at evening, and as previously promised he took us for a dinner. Unfortunately not to any public place, but to his home. One roommate was living with him (we still do not know if he was a servant or friend). They honoured us on the carpet with rice, fruits and snacks. It was a funny, 
easy going meeting, but we didn't trust him too much. However, a police officer advised that if we respect our life, it's better to go back to Tajikistan. He said if Taliban stopped a car they would check all passengers. They wouldn't harm locals, but police, military and government employees would be shot on the spot, and tourists ... maybe too. We asked for more proof about such a serious situation in this region - so he turned on the satellite TV, searched through a few canals and found one - Italian TV was just giving the news about Afghanistan - soldiers, guns, dead bodies etc. We started to worry again, as it didn't look good. Moment later on the carpet “landed” bottle of vodka. It surprised us, as we were in Islamic country. They insisted us to drink with them, so we did a bit.
We woke up at early morning, anyway the night was sleepless - I was scared and listening to every sound. Later there were no illusions - we've heard shots. Our final decision was made in a moment - we are going to return to safer region. We wanted to visit this exotic country, but on the other hand, we knew there are no jokes anymore. At morning some ministers who worked in the Town Hall invited us for 
tea. Then we walked along the town main street. There were only men, I haven't seen any woman. People looked at us like on aliens from another planet. We entered into a few shops and immediately locals started an interesting discussion. We bought breakfast and few small things, just to find excuse for another discussion. Of course our movements were watched by army soldiers. When we went a little further from the center, towards the village, they immediately came to us by car, get off with gun machines and ordered us to enter the car, as they were warning for Al-Qaeda and Taliban. It seemed to us a bit over reacted, but probably they knew better what they were doing. After contact with curious children we went back to town, took the last photos and sadly went to the border check point.
accommodation - we slept in Afghanistan only one night, in a government building. We paid 5 $ (3.5 €) per person. It wasn't a hotel room, just an office, but we had one bed.
transport - you cannot cross the border on foot, you must take a minibus. It is very expensive - 120 afghani (1.6 €) per person for 30 seconds ride (500 m). On Tajik side you must take another minibus for the same price (just from Tajik border to get behind the fence) – it should be called by name - “mafia”.
visa - we applied in Warsaw – application form, photo, 30 € plus banking commission. We were waiting three days. The visa is valid for three months from the date of issue and you can stay in Afghanistan up to 30 days.