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Central Asia 2009

Introduction >> Georgia Armenia Azerbaijan Iran
Turkmenistan >> Uzbekistan Tajikistan Afghanistan Kyrgyzstan
Kazakhstan >> Russia Mongolia Conclusion Cost calculation

Russia

7.09 to 10.09.2009, 3 days, currency rate 1 € = 44.7 R (Rubel)

Altayhighlights – manager of our train carriage woke us up at 3 am, when we approached Barnaul town. It should be noted that Russian railway stations are nice, clean and safe. Virtually the only potential risk might be from the police side, but they didn't bother us. In the morning we walked around the town – we were feeling the frosty air, although it was just the beginning of September.

Our transit visa was issued for just five days, so we were going as quick we could to the border with Mongolia. First by bus, then by hitchhiking. And the closer to the border, the more beautiful Altai mountains we could see. We felt like during Polish autumn among rapid streams, colorful tree leaves, green meadows and yellow fields. Only Siberian village were different from our countryside - here the landscape is dominated by wooden structures. Also the nights in the tent turned out to be cool, the temperature at night dropped below zero. At least the wooden villages and freezing cheeks let us felt that we were in the Siberian arms.

golden autumn accommodation – in Russian railway stations there are simple little rooms and dorms for travellers (in Barnaul from 320 R /person, 7 €), but that night there were no vacancies. We walked through dark city streets to the nearest hotel, but when we've seen their high prices (over 40 € per night), we quickly went back to the train station. The other option we got was staying in the waiting room, free of charge among the homeless and the police, or for a small fee (130 R/person, 3 €) we could sleep on sofas under the eye of officer on duty. We have chosen the last option.

The other two nights we spent in the tent in wild.

transport – the cheapest and most convenient way to travel is by train. Unfortunately, they do not go everywhere. To the border with Mongolia there is not even a public bus – the maximum you can get is by bus to Kosh-Agach, and it goes only once a week. So we caught a bus to Gorno-Altaysk – expensive, and in addition they charge for a luggage (you'll get a separate ticket). Then we decided to hitchhike – we heard it's quite easy in Russia, but this positive feedback probably applies only to European part. Unfortunately, the hitchhiking proved to be a problematic – drivers demanded payment for longer distances, often much higher than the bus ticket costs. There was no bargain – they shut the door and went away. Of course we finally met nicer drivers, but it was a little frustrated.

In Kosh-Agach bazaar there are jeeps to Mongolia. However, the drivers weren't nice and demanded higher fee from us than from the locals. In the end we found a Kazakhs privet car for a normal price. The given time below included nearly two-hour wait for the border formalities.

day destination transport price in R €/ per duration km
61 - 63 Almaty (Kazakhstan) - Baranul night train plackartnyj data in "Kazakhstan" 33 h Kazakhstan 1150 Russia 350
63 Barnaul - Gorno-Altaysk bus 350 R + 70 R/ bag €9.4 4 h 250
64 Gorno-Altaysk - Kosh-Agach 3x hitchhiking 550 R/ per €12.3 10 h 450
65 Kosh-Agach - Olgii (Mongolia) car 400 R/ per €8.9 6 h Russia 90 Mongolia 80
  city transport bus 13 R/ per €0.3 - -
        €31   1140

visa – in European countries you can arrange a Russian visa, but you need a visa support (letter of invitation), hotel bookings, train tickets, etc. Overall, it's easier to do it through agency.

When leaving Poland we did not know that we will go to Russia. So we arranged our visa in Almaty, Kazakhstan. Consular section is open only on Mondays, Thursdays and Fridays. The tourist visa was beyond our time and organization possibilities, so we decided for a transit visa. It was necessary to have already the Mongolian visa, insurance covering the travelling period Siberian village (they checked whether the insurance is valid in Russia), filled application, photos and original ticket for the entire itinerary (we showed the ticket only to Barnaul, and have explained them that there is no railway to Olgi and we are planning to travel by bus - nice officer agreed for it). Normally waiting for a visa it's taking at least a week, but in priority processing (twice more expensive - 70 € + 1 € administration fee) we got the visa within an hour. The tourist visa costs the same, but you need to wait and pay extra for letter of invitation. Officer calculated that we need five days in Russia from the date of entry (regarding to the ticket we showed him). We did not expect that in one morning we were able to pick up the Mongolian visa, bought a train ticket to Russia and two hours later we were holding a Russian visa. The next day we were already in the train.

If you are travelling on transit visa you do not need to register, but if you are on tourist one you have to do it within three working days from the entry date (if you spend the night officially, the hotel will do it for you). When travelling on transit visa it's better to keep all tickets and receipts, as police or border guards may require such proof (you cannot stay in one place longer then 72 hours). We were asked to show them when leaving the country.

The border with Mongolia in Tashanta - on the internet is written that it's closed all weekend, but the border guards told us that they are working on Saturday. You cannot cross this border on foot - 20 km land strip need to be covered by a vehicle.

Russia has its own diplomatic representation in almost every country.

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