5.08 till 7.08.2016, 2 days, currency exchange rate 1 € = 1.10 USD (US Dollar)
Introduction
1,100 islets spread in the Pacific Ocean on an area of almost 2 million square kilometres. Their total land area is only 181 km2, and the population is less than 60,000. Officially an independent country, but almost completely dependent on the US.
History from the World War period does not bring a pride. As you know, the battles with Japan have spread to the Pacific Islands, and because there was not enough land there to escape, the fighting ended with a massacre. Then, during the Cold War, the Americans carried out dozens of experiments with nuclear weapons, mainly on the Bikini Atoll. Until now, nuclear tests are the most controversial subject of the country.
The Marshall Islands are an archipelago of 29 atolls, more or less the type that the blue lagoon is surrounded by a thin strip of land, flat like a table, usually between 100 and 500 meters wide. Such a land often forms a round or a triangular shape, but it is not closed, but cut by many channels connecting the lagoon with the ocean. It would be a sin not to take the opportunity and not try to pass through such channels to other islands.
We landed in Majuro, the capital of the country. Almost half of all residents live here, so population density is quite high, as it amounts to nearly 3,000 people per square kilometre. It would be reasonable to run away from here to another atoll. Unfortunately, we decided not to leave the island because of the soon coming flight connections.
After leaving the airport, we headed straight towards the end of the island in the opposite direction to the city. We had to wait a few minutes for hitchhiking, and soon we hit the road, which at times was so narrow that practically the beach was on both shoulder sides. We got to the village of Laura.
At the very end of Laura, there is a recreation area, with barbecue areas, a volleyball pitch, changing rooms, showers, shaded areas, etc. Admission fee is $1 per person per day, even for locals. The keeper came quickly and when I asked if we could stay here overnight, he did not mind. Of course, it remains to set how much this option will cost us - the guy looked at me and hesitantly asked - "Will it be ok if you pay the admission for today and tomorrow, meaning $2 per person?" Well, he surprised me, because it turned out that the accommodation is free.
We set up a tent under a spreading tree, where the lagoon and the ocean are connected. The water was hot, too much. Besides, most of the time we were the only users of the area. In the nearby store we bought a supply of water and various snacks, and because owners had no change, I was taking goods for credit. After the supper was over, the time came for the night - but it was not a peaceful night.
Atoll is just north from the equator, average temperature is 27 degrees through the year. It is better not to mention the humidity because sweat is pouring out of man. That's why I did not put the fly over the tent - it's better to look at the sky and have some more ventilation. I was awakened by the first drops, which quickly turned into a downpour, supported by a gusting wind. I wondered if typhoon was coming. There was no choice, I stood up naked and put on fly in the dark, fighting with the forced gale too. After the winning fight I returned with muddy legs inside, but a moment later a new problem appeared - under the fly it was airless, it was impossible to breathe. It took half a night to balance between protection from the rain and ventilation - the situation forced me to repeat the fly taking our and on a few more times. There was nothing really to worry about - I did not have to get up early to work.
The next day was relaxed one - bathing, beach, walking around, meeting tourists from yesterday's plane who came to rest on the beach (maybe the best on atoll), and as it was Saturday, it brought the local crowds too. Our tent and kid aroused general sympathy, so we were invited to a local grilled feast.
Before the end of the day, we decided to go to see the town of Majuro. We took a direct collective transport, in the form of a minibus for $ 2, and after more or less the distance of the marathon we entered the capital. It was a pity, however, that Majuro is nothing special, it is a waste of time on the paradise islands to see the town. We ate a hamburger, because a small choice can be expected from the American menu, and we headed back.
This time, the taxi drivers did not want to go for the local rate anymore, so we went after ten stopped taxi, to the airport. On the way, we were again watching the ugly harbour, construction sites, concrete buildings with corrugated iron roof. The driver stopped in front of the airport and returned to the city, and we were looking for a safe place to stay. There, young people were having fun, there was no place to hide, there without roof protection in case of rain, so in the end we started asking the locals. At the second gate, the guard sent us away, but he quickly ran after us and offered to stay in his home.
Our hosts were very nice immigrants from Tuvalu. A traditional multigenerational family living under one roof, smiling, seemingly carefree. In the morning, they insisted on taking us to the airport, the whole one kilometer. They were just nice.
accommodation – I did not use the official ones, but it will be hard to find anything below $ 50 per night. Wild camping will be quite difficult, because at least on this atoll, there is no, no one land - however, if asking politely the locals, there should be no major problems with obtaining the permission.
transport – collective taxis circulate around the island, all you need to do is wave the hand and tell where you want to go. On the nearby Arno atoll, you can go by boat, and further atolls, either by regular flight connections or ship with supplies.
food – the impact of American cuisine, finding a hamburger is easy. To find something more might be challenging.
flights – Nauru Airlines and United Airlines connect the Majuro International Airport.
My international ticket was as follows:
Brisbane – Nauru – Majuro – Tarawa – Brisbane. Total AUD 1678 (€ 1060) per person.
weather – the rainy season occurs here from May to November, unlike other islands, such as Nauru and Kiribati, which are nearby, because the Marshall Islands are already on the northern side of the equator.
currency – US dollars
visa – free entry, but departure tax is $20.