It was long on my list of places "must see" and in the end I managed to find the time for it. I took my mom with me, in order to fulfill one of her dreams.
I took Jerusalem for the hub, where all the nights we spent with couchsurfer (social hospitality web), so that we had free of charge evenings including interesting conversation with a local woman. In exchange for interesting first hand news, we were preparing dinners.
Israel
highlights - Jerusalem is a magical place, a mixture of styles, ages, population, labyrinth of narrow streets and mosaic of smells. Each street had witnessed incredible stories, which surely were unfolded here. It is great to get lost among the streets, walking on the empty paths. It is a great contrast between the districts - Arabic quarter is full of life and vigor 24/7, Jewish one is calm, quiet, and during Sabbath evening even scary empty and dark, while the Christian district is something in between.
Also, I love the stone, both on the wall, building, and on the cobble stones. It's the one that makes me feel in another world, now more and more seldom. In the old city of Jerusalem stone is superb, lovely to walk aimlessly. On the main streets, unfortunately, it’s hard to find the atmosphere of the ancient world, there is noise from tourists and vendors.
Stations of the Cross - Dolorosa street, at least that way is an official path, runs between the stalls. On Fridays at 3pm Franciscan procession begins, monks and behind them thousands of pilgrims stop at every station where a brief prayer is hold - in our case in three languages. Sorry but we did not manage to grab any sense of spiritual atmosphere - not in the crowds and screaming. Unfortunately even worse was in the Basilica of the Holy Sepulchre, where are the stations from the ninth to the fourteenth. People were pushing each other, elbow strokes, fight for the better spot. To enter the Jesus Tomb we waited 1.5 hours in the queue, not so bad result - but when I was already almost at the entrance, few orthodox priests came and disperse the queue treating us like cattle, very unpleasant for us. New queue formed on the other side and we have lost our spots. At the time when the procession has gone, priests began letting people get in from this new queue - I had no resistance to get into it - and then insults flew in our direction, what right do I have to do that! - One post- Yugoslav guy brought his fist to my face –no understanding to my explanation that I was queuing before - people were nasty and aggressive - and it's all right at the Tomb of Christ. Pathetic.
The problem with the Stations of the Cross, however, lies in the fact that it is not known exactly where it took place. Established stations are arbitrary. The same in case of Christ crucifixion and his tomb - there are at least four places where historians are arguing where this great event was hold. We were in two of them - the first is in the old City of Jerusalem, the other just outside the walls, at the Garden Tomb. In the first case the church is built and it is difficult to imagine the place of the crucifixion inside the building and the tomb is now in the crypt, not inside the cave. The second case seems more likely, but this is just my theory not supported by any evidence. My point is that the tomb is located inside a cave, and Golgotha (or Calvary) is a hill which looks a bit like a skull - photo taken next to the nearby bus station, you can see the holes in the rock similar to those in the skull. However, if you read the pros and cons about any of those places - then you won’t believe in anything.
Western Wall - the remains of the Temple of Jerusalem’s wall – not much left but this piece serves as an icon of Judaism’s holiest site. There is where the Jews pray, they face the wall, sing, read the Torah, put a notes with requests to God in the wall’s cracks. After the baggage X-ray the area is open to the public, first we have a common square and then it divides into men and women sectors (women are not allowed to pray aloud). To enter, men must cover his head - if you do not have any hat, you can borrow a kippah.
During the Sabbath you can’t take pictures, but on other days the Jews have nothing against it. So I walked among Orthodox Jews and took a few shots, then I went inside the building - a beautiful room with a library of books set in stylish shelves with praying echo around. Here, as in most of the country, I’ve felt the total ignorance towards the tourists – we are accepted, but I didn’t get impression that we are liked.
I was there during Purim Festival which is the period when Jews dress up, according to religious rules they need to drink alcohol in amounts to get drunk (I've seen a few totally pissed orthodox), play on the streets. Nice mix of orthodox and modern Jews, and most interestingly for the lens was at the Western Wall, where on left side I’ve seen an orthodox Jew with a traditional hat, and on the right side other Jew in a feast hat in the shape of the crow's nest, and between them ninja turtle is praying.
Dome of the Rock - It is the most popular panorama of Jerusalem. Huge gold dome towering above the old city. The whole huge complex of mosques and churches, along with the squares adjacent to the Western Wall. 
For visitors is open only from 7.30 to 10.30 am and from 12.30 to 1.30 pm. When we enter inside we can walk whenever we want, but to enter the mosque itself is prohibited. It is here, according to Koran, where Muhammad went to heaven - after Mecca and Medina it is the third holiest site of Islam. However, according to the Bible, the dome covers the rock on which Abraham was to sacrifice his son Isaac to the God.
The most interesting panorama of Jerusalem extends from a few places. The most popular is the Mount of Olives. I exaggerated a bit by forcing my mom to climb up hundreds of steps, but the view is well worth this price. Besides, it is also an interesting view of thousands of graves in cemeteries outside the walls of Jerusalem, and on the Mount of Olives. According to the Bible, here took place Feast of the Ascension. At the foot of the mountain is a Gethsemane - a place where Jesus was with the apostles evening before the captivity, and the cave in which he was arrested.
A similar view, but a bit further on, extends from Peace Forest, called the Haas Promenade, a few kilometers from the city center to the south (from where we caught the
bus to Bethlehem after the walk ). Or view of the city from a completely close up - I recommend to enter the roof of Austrian Hospice, entrance near the third station of the Cross.
In Jerusalem there are many other interesting places, like the Israel Museum, where you can see for exp. The Dead Sea scrolls.
For those more interested in the fate of the Jews the Museum of the Holocaust is not to be missed.
We decided to take a closer look on Orthodox Jews district in Mea She'arim, just 10 minutes walk from the Damascus Gate.
Orthodox Jews are rising in power in Israel, there are more and more of them. In the end they do not have to work because the government pays their benefits, don’t have to do military service (despite the fact that Israelis must spend in army three years for boys, and two years for girls). Orthodox must pray, read the Torah and invent new prohibitions for women. Because, unfortunately, their wives have to go to work to support big family (government allowances are not enough), and have a lot of restrictions. The various restrictions on the everyday lives are determined by local rabbis - 
but mostly talking about banning the use of the privileges of civilization such as TV or the Internet, but allows the mobile phones, cars, radio - but in a controlled extent and if they do not conflict with tradition.
However, it is very interesting to walk on their neighborhood. Although for me it's a ghetto of their own choice, drowning in garbage. Here we can see whole families traditionally dressed, men a little funny, and not very attractive women. But it's their culture. They do not treat me wrong here, something like I wasn’t there at all. I remembered that photographs shouldn’t be taken, talking to children is prohibited, you can’t walk with women by arm or hand. However, I was not under the heard impression from other tourists that this is a trip back in time about 100 years.
For me it is obvious that while being in Israel I have to be at the lowest point on earth. So I went over to Dead Sea, 418 meters below sea level. Its name is “dead”, because it is a lake with no river coming out (it can’t go lower if that is the lowest place on the planet) and thus has a huge water salinity. This is because in the lowest point on earth is very hot, and this causes the evaporation of water and heavier then water vapor, salt, stayed grounded. In such brine has no form of life in any matter – no fish, crayfish, plant, or even insect. Therefore, it is dead.
From the central bus station in Jerusalem I took a direct bus to Masada (1.5 h, via Ein Gedi), the discounted ticket cost 36 Ils (7.5 € - normally 15% more, but we had green public transport cards - details at the end).
Masada - It’s fortress built on a cliff. Here escapes Herod at time. Now this is ruin, but still curiously preserved and especially beautiful in its location - on a hill with a magnificent view of the Judean Desert and the Dead Sea. In addition this place is the symbol of the never defeated place to Israelites – fighting to the end - according to legend, locals committed mass suicide to avoid capture by Romans, although the city was full of food and water. But it seems that this is just a legend - historians can’t prove it and the number of 26 discovered bones don’t match the story of the 960 victims.
Bus leaves us in the parking lot, so you can approach the building with cable car. I sent my mother by cable car (one way 58 Ils , 12 €, return trip is about 150% of the price), while I walked to the top by trail called "snake path". Officially the hikers has to pay 29 Ils (6 €), but I went out on the track without asking for it. Fast hike brought me to the top in 25 minutes, where we started a 3- hour tour of the ruins (well described). It was even interesting. Then we went down to the car park (1h with mom), from where we caught a bus to Ein Gedi (15 minutes, 16 Ils, 3 €).
Ein Gedi is a popular recreational place at the Dead Sea. There are hostels, hotels and resorts. There are also resorts with spa, mud baths and similar, and as well the popular trekking trail and waterfall. We made it just to visit the public beach. It is a little steep and rocky, so there was no question of sleeping on a towel. I immediately went into the water - at least there you can lie. Water has such buoyancy that the body is maintained automatically at the surface. After all the water was not warm enough to enjoy it, so bath automatically shortened. Covered with salt I ran straight into installed public showers. Well, it was the lowest place on earth - a revelation to me!
Palestine (West Bank)
It's hard to speak of a separate country, but Palestine is definitely a occupied territory. Palestine is under the control of Israeli army and can’t get away from it. This is the old Jewish-Arab war, the conflict seems to be with no solution. Without a solution that Israelis and Palestinians would accept together.
The occupied West Bank we can go from Jerusalem by any Arab bus without a problem. But keep in mind that on the way back you might be asked to show a passport.
Bethlehem - is the birthplace of Christ. Is just (10 km) 30-minute drive from Jerusalem, but it is "abroad". From the bus station near the Damascus Gate the public buses No. 21 or 24 depart, this first (8 Ils , 1.7 €) goes directly through the tunnel to the town center , where we have to walk just about 15 minutes to the church. In contrast, bus No. 24 (5.50 Ils , 1.1 €) goes only to the border which we have to cross on foot. On the other side hassling taxi drivers are waiting (I had a discussion with one of them after which all other drivers were apologizing to me, they bought me a coffee and explained that he was stressed from the lack of business) - the town is only a few kilometers away. I decided to come this way because of the border crossing - you can see here eight meter high wall between Israel and Palestine. It is painted and sprayed with interesting graffiti – it’s kind of contact by Palestinian with the world (of course only from Bethlehem side). After series of photos I went back, passing an interesting border control full of wires, cameras, armed doors and soldiers.
The religious highlight in Bethlehem is the Church of the Nativity. Here also you have to stand in the queue (supposedly horror is during Easter, summer holidays and Christmas), but worth the wait to get down to the cave, in which supposedly Jesus was born. We had great luck because just before our entrance the queue was stopped as the Franciscans procession approached - but we were allowed to enter in only three people into the chapel. After leaving it I took a daypack and I sent my mom to illegally join the passing procession, so she could see much more and pray in quiet, not during the security guards rash.
Nearby is the Milk Grotto, especially for people who want to pray for people who can’t get pregnant.
Bethlehem as the town itself is quite interesting. This is a typical Arab town, full of verve and colour. In addition, the nicer people, smiles, and pleasant prices. Buying and bargaining at the market is fun and a nice surprise when seller throws two potatoes extra after the transaction, giving us a piece of bread cake, or charging less when price already has been agreed. The Arabs are simply more open than the neighbors behind the wall.
Jericho -is the oldest continuously inhabited settlement in the world (more than 10.000 years). I knew photos of Jericho as a child from colorful albums books. In the end I had the opportunity to see it for myself. It was also the only place on this trip where I paid admission fee (10 Ils, 2 €). This place it’s not overwhelming but I had low expectations. Overall it’s just a pile of rubble and stones, but one part was well renovated and this gave me enough joy. From the entrance of Tell es -Sultan a cable car to the Mount of Temptation is leaving. It was expensive (similar to Masada), so I went on foot by own paths. It was uphill but after 19 minutes I stood at the door of a Greek Orthodox monastery (closed weekdays between 1 and 2 pm). Very nice – a few tourists, the atmosphere of spirituality, beautiful monastery attached to the vertical cliff. View on the entire Jericho and the nearby Dead Sea. According to the Bible here Jesus spent 40 days fasting and was tempted by Satan (but like everything associated with Christ - it is not certain where exactly any event happened).
Return way to the center of the modern Jericho is passing next to sycamore tree.
On this tree Zacchaeus was supposed to sit and waited for Jesus, who was invited to his house. Getting to Jericho is not the easiest, but thanks to it we haven’t seen any individual tourists. From the bus station near the Damascus Gate (other than the station to Bethlehem, a few hundred meters away is the bus station from which you can see Golgotha) take a bus to Al-Eizariya (No. 35, 5 Ils, 1 €), the driver will tell you where to get off and change on a collective taxi to Jericho (10-12 Ils, 2-2.5 €). The whole route with connecting takes about an hour. Besides, this is a great opportunity to know some of the unspoiled by commerce Palestine, it is a real Arab province.
Visas: people threatened me by interviews after which I might be not allowed to enter the country (as I like Iran on my website), hold for hours with lots of questions from border guards, both during arrival and departure from Israel. I was lucky and briefing went smoothly. Poles do not need visas, and instead of stamp in a passport, we get a separate piece of paper - this is important if you need to use the same passport to travel to some Arab country - with a stamp from Israel you would probably not be permitted.
Getting there and around: nowdays many low cost airlines fly to Tel Aviv. From Poland I paid 124 € for return ticket with a small carry-on baggage (charging fee for bigger one).
Getting to Jerusalem from the airport you can take a collective taxi to the hotel door (about 13-15 € per person) or take the public bus No. 5, then change it at the main road to any bus going to the city - one ticket for both buses costs 25 Ils (5 €). On the way back remember to get off at Terminal 1 - which is the low-cost airlines terminal. Safely be there three hours before departure, in the event of interviews.
Going around Jerusalem (and perhaps on the majority of the country) we can ride with a green plastic card called Ma'avar (cost 5 Ils, 1 €). You can charge it as pre-paid rides. It gives you about 15% discount on all public Jewish buses, and provides opportunities for urban transport interchange without buying a new ticket for 60 or 90 minutes. Previously, you could do it without a card, but not anymore - just a pity that many passengers learned this from unpleasant drivers in an unpleasant way.
Cost: high, such as in Western Europe. The 100 km bus journey cost about 10 €, single tram ride 1.4 €. Cheapest accommodation in the cheapest city in the dormitory starts from 25 €. Food - horror. Finally, in the Arab neighborhoods I found it slightly cheaper, falafel should start with a 1 €, but this is difficult to find in places where tourists generally are. We cooked in the kitchen with our host, but it still wasn’t too cheap.
Shabbat - is a holy day for Jews. For tourists in theory it should not be a problem, but if you live in distant districts it may be a problem with transport - there are taxis, but these are expensive. Shabbat begins on Friday sunset and lasts till Saturday sunset. That means no public transport at that time. It’s better to explore the old city of Jerusalem, or to go to Palestine by Arab bus from the Damascus Gate. I do not recommend at this time explore the orthodox district because they can treat us unpredictable.
We can withdraw money at ATMs, but it is better rate to do it in exchange offices - just not in the center of the old town, or at the airport.