Great civilization of ancient Egypt. Nearly 5,000 years ago in Giza were creating one of the finest buildings in the world - the Pyramids. Today, it is almost impossible to believe that the Pharaohs descendant’s, first robbed tombs of their kings, and now desperately begging for tourist tips. Fortunately, this applies only to commercial destinations, and Egyptians negative behavior it’s not able to reduce the great meaning of the history, which is worth a visit.

I was prepared for catastrophic, insistent tourist’s hassle. And such cases happened, but fortunately not in aggressive way. You pay for everything – tip (baksheesh) should be considered for putting the baggage to the bus, showing the way, keeping an eye for your shoes at mosque, opening the doors in the toilet, etc. Tricks and dishonesty here are beating the world records, but if you turn off from the tourist track, you will also meet these nice, friendly, honorable people.

Route: Hurghada - Aswan - Luxor - Cairo - Hurghada

Period: 4 May - 11 May 2009 (7 days)

Team: with my mother, this has worked well in the hard African conditions on the backpacker’s budget.

Visas: most nations do not need visa only if they go to the Sinai Peninsula. The rest of the country required a visa and you can buy it at the airport for 15 USD. No one asked me for return ticket, hotel reservations etc. You can exchange some money at the airport because the rates in all Egypt are almost identical.

Get there: 3 days before departure I browsed in travel agencies for the last minute deals. Most offers have the same price if you take a package with hotels and meals, as the flight itself. Finally I found a charter flight cheaper than the whole package, so I took the offer. I paid 171 € per person for Warsaw – Hurghada – Warsaw including all fees.

highlights - we started the journey from overnight bus trip to Aswan. There, the hotel staff was a bit pushy for the tours, but we decided not to travel to Abu Simbel. The reason for this was the organizing way – wake up at 3 am, then a long bus journey in the convoy, and dozens of buses at a same time attack the temples. A total of 7 hours travelling plus 2 hours in temple’s crowd – we resigned from it. The prices offered are 65 E (8.5 €) or with additional visit 75 E (10 €) to the dam, Philae Temple and unfinished obelisk. Prices do not include entrance fees - Abu Simbel 90 E/ student 45 E, 12/6 €, other charges from 10 to 35 E for the attraction.

We did not want to give up with sailing on the Nile by felucca (sailboat). We decided took this trip from our hotel staff (80 E for two people, 10 € for felucca). Mistake. Not only that is more expensive (should be 25 E for an hour sailing and 5 E when waiting on bank), the hotel didn’t care for quality service. It started in the harbour that they informed us than we will use the motorboat – we didn’t agree. They gave up and started to prepare felucca, long time not in use, but finally we were enjoying sailing on the Nile. Not for long - after 10 minutes the police caught us. I do not know exactly whether it was a matter of strong wind or something else, anyway we had to back to motorboat. With engine noise we reached the Kitchener Island with botanical garden (admission 10 E) and after that tourist trap we went to the Elephantine Island. This time we weren’t fool and instead pay for an entrance we gave 30 E to the boys that took us to the First Cataract. The cataract alone does not impress at all, but the sailing was nice. Overall: instead felucca - motorboat, three hours tours - two and a half, including less than an hour on the water! Tragic. After our mood get better thanks to local restaurant with a very nice service - Koshary El Safwa, from the train station one block to the south and turn right (one storey pink building on the left). I recommend as well delicious juices in a number of local stores - sugar cane (1 E) or orange (2 E).

The second day brought a more positive experience. We went by the local ferry to the other side of the river and then walk to the south between the Nile and sand dune. After a very pleasant one hour hike we came to the camel group, passing them and climbing to the Monastery of St. Simeon (admission 25 E, 3 €). After visiting it from outside, wondering the Nile view, we started to get back by short cut through wilderness. This time the sand dunes blocked the Nile view, so it was a feeling of walking in solitude and peace on the Sahara (ferry - the Monastery – ferry, 3 hours hike in relaxing pace).

Luxor (formerly Thebes) is the historical place. On the East Bank of the Nile the rulers of the New Kingdom (1550-1069 BC) raised the magnificent temples (Karnak and Luxor). At the same time they were thinking about life after dead. For it they searched the graves in the mountains on the West Bank. Thousands of workers forged in rocks underground tunnels to hide the mummies and treasures of his leaderships, which were regarded as the Gods. Although these tombs were later plundered (except discovered in 1922 Tutankhamun tomb), and inside we can only see the bare walls and the empty sarcophagus. But for me it has made the big impression, mainly through the own imagination. Because of its historic significance, and the beauty of a mountain range, Valley of the Kings is a wonderful place. In the ticket office we purchase ticket for any 3 graves (80 E/ student 40 E, 10/5 €), but it doesn’t include the Tutankhamun tomb (additional 100 E/ student 50 E, 13/6.5 €) and Rameses V/VI (additional 50 E/ student 25 E, 6/3 €). I recommend selecting from the following tombs: Tuthmosis III, Horemheb, Amenhotep II and Rameses III. From the ticket office to the site operate electric train (4 E), but it goes only about 700 meters. In all Egypt is worth to have international student card (ISIC), which saved me a lot of money, since I could buy discounted tickets to visit historical sites (unfortunately, it is no longer respected in the purchase of railway tickets).

As a tourist in a tour group, we have the right to complain about the crowds of tourists. But while we are the individual one, we have opportunity to avoid crowds, come early before or after them. Beside it there is a great track through the mountains leading to the Hatshepsut Temple (Deir el-Bahari). It is only one hour peaceful march, and the views and emptiness around pay back for the effort. Although the beginning of the path leads steeply uphill and my mom, not in the youngest age, slowly but with determination climbed towards the sun. Track starts behind the grave of Seti I, and the number of small tracks in the end comes together to make one main one, and soon to be again in a fork. Choose a left turn and go next to cliff edge just above the graves of Tuthomis IV and Montuhirkhopshef. The path will curve to the right and soon you will stand on the abyss, just above the Queen Hatshepsut Temple. Going down choose the left track, but it is worth for a while to go a few hundred meters to the right over the cliff, from where is a wonderful view to the temple below. It is therefore from here, more than a dozen years ago, where Islamic fundamentalists were shooting to the coaches below and killing nearly a hundred visitors. Since then authorities have strengthened the military and police service in tourist areas and now you can tell that is very safe. The Temple of Hatshepsut (admission fee 30 E/ student 15 E, 4/2 €, you can also take a ride by electric train from ticket office to the temple for 2 E, but it's just 200 meters) is one of the best reconstructed buildings in Egypt, and phenomenally composition with the landscape. But the visit inside without a guide won’t bring you anything special. From here we took the short cut through Tombs of the Nobles to the Ramesseum, where we turned right on the paved roadto to the junction, turn left and get to the Colossi of Memnon (admission free). From Hatshepsut to here we walked at noon for 45 minutes. We resigned to visit the Queens Valley.

Later we went to Karnak sacral complex (entry fee 65 E/ student 35 E, 8.5/4.5 €). This temple dedicated to the Theban gods is huge, could contain 10 cathedrals. Amun Temple is the largest religious building ever built in the world. Our express tour with selective reading about next halls, took us 2 hours. The biggest impression on us created Great Hypostyle Hall. This is a hall with 134 monumental, massive stone columns coated with relieves. Currently without the roof, but thanks to it the sun sets there interesting components of light and shadow. 3-kilometer Avenue of Sphinxes with ram heads once connected Karnak with Luxor, now remains only a few hundred meters of restored once, and it is a nice composition structure. We were looking at the Luxor Temple previous night through the fence, because you can see everything clearly without getting inside. It was a very intense day from 8 am to 2 pm on the West Bank and an evening in Karnak, but was worth it.

At the Cairo bazaar Khan al-Khalili, supposedly the largest in Africa, the sellers aren’t so hassle as in the south of the country. Although we still weren’t able to look at the goods alone in peace, and bargain skills are required. A moment of quiet may be found in nearby mosques. We have entered into more than a thousand year old Al-Azhar, the second oldest educational institution in the world. Women also have a right to enter, but must wear long sleeves and cover a head. From here to the east is 15 minute walk to the Northern Cemetery. It is not, however, inhabited only by dead. In such a big city like Cairo (sometimes data is given up to 18 million inhabitants), there is no enough space. So, poor people have built their houses at the cemetery, between the graves and tombs. We walked around this area, but I must admit that I didn’t feel particularly comfortable. City of the Dead is a fighting for survival superb, but worth to see this poverty as you might more appreciate your financial situation. To get there is described in the Lonely Planet - from Al-Azhar mosque head east, on the top hill bear right, walk below the overpass and go straight along the road between the tombs. Here is your own invention, but we walked in narrow vehicle roads, and most of locals were nice to us. Try to do it during the daylight. Walking in downtown at night we felt safe, except crossing the busy streets, which requires some skills.

160 thousand exhibits – that is property of the Egyptian Museum (entrance fee 50 E/ student 30 E, 6.5/4 €). We had to select the most interesting one to enjoy and anyway we spent there almost 4 hours. The most valuable exhibits are the treasures found in the Tutankhamun tomb, distributed in several rooms, including the famous mask, throne, coffins, sarcophagus, and hundreds of other subjects. He was a young, insignificant king, and the magnificent of the treasure found in his tomb is so impressive that is hard to imagine what Pharaoh Rameses II took to his grave (ruled in Egypt for 66 years). He left plenty of huge statues with his own similarity, which can be found in most temples around the country. Unfortunately, his and others graves were completely plundered by thieves before archaeologists discovered it. For me, however, most impressed was the Mummies Room (additional entrance 100 E/ student 60 E, 13/8 €, two rooms on both ends on the first floor), where you can look at mummies with uncovered from bandages faces, hands and feet of the Pharaohs. Still with hair, teeth and muscle fibers have strong impression, and if we realized then in one room we see the most important persons of the ancient world from 3000 years ago, the heart beat stronger.

From the Seven Ancient Wonders of the world only one survived to the present day - Great Pyramids in Giza. They are so huge and powerful, so strong and massive, that 45 centuries work of desert, sun, wind and people didn’t destroyed it. To imagine their size you must stand next to them, to see these giants, become aware how many people, materials and time it took to build. Just climb one of a huge several tones stone block and look at 2.3 million others like them. We had a great impression of the pyramids and spent there almost 5 hours. The first of these, Cheops, is the largest, but the top cone is slightly cut. Second one, Chephren, is slightly lower, but was  build on a hill and still has limestone cover at the top, makes an impression of the biggest one (before all pyramids were covered with a limestone layer, which unfortunately were pulled down for the local mosques constructions). If someone is not prepared can get a small shock - pyramids are just a few hundred meters from the town, near noisy streets and ugly buildings. But if we look at the other side we will see the desert. Access to the site costs 60 E/ student 30 E, 8/4 €; entry to Cheops Pyramid (Great) 100 E/ student 50 E, 13/6.5 €; entry to Chephren Pyramid (Khafre) 30 E/ student 15 E, 4/2 €; visit the Solar Barque 50 E/ student 25 E, 6/3 €, for Spihinx you also pay separatly but I didn’t check the price. At the Pyramid of Cheops (Khufu) was crowd of tourists. However they are moving between the parking and meeting point, so when we got behind Chephren Pyramid we were almost alone. Then we went on sand to the west to the plateau with a good view. From there we turned off to south and hiked with distance, so all the time we had changing angle view for all 3 pyramids: Mycerinus, Chephren and Cheops. And that was the most classic views and we were the only pedestrians passing from time to time by groups of tourist on horseback or camels. Please be aware for camel owners, they offer a good deal and at the end for exp. they give you good price for a ride, but to get off from the animal you must pay extra. In the end we got close to Sphinx and admire it from behind the fence, there is no need to pay admission fee. At afternoon not so many tourist left on site and the queue to get inside the pyramid disappeared. For the entire period that I was inside I was the only visitor. Although the corridors are bare, narrow and claustrophobic, main room with just one empty sarcophagus, my imagination transferred me to the first pyramid’s discoverers times, I felt the power and mystery of underground corridors and labyrinths full of traps and secrets. The area is open to the public quite late, at 9 am, and closes early, in winter at 4, in summer at 6 pm. Anyway you can watch the "Sound & Light" show close to the Sphinx with great illumination and quieter atmosphere.

At the end of our trip we rested on the coast of Red Sea. We took the boat trip, and although the company Safary Star with boat called “Neptune” promised something else, it was nice trip. We anchored on the reef and for 5 hours we stay in one place surrounded by beautiful, warm, turquoise-blue water. Some people snorkeled or swam. I took two dives (unfortunately in the same place). It was shallow (13 m), a lot of sand and sometimes the coral pillars with colorful fish around it, but no bigger sea animals. Water transparency was amazing, beautiful. We got a good lunch and around 3 pm we were back. Fortunately that wasn’t expensive, per person 75 E (10 €) for snorkeling and 150 E (20 €) for diving person (two dives). Price includes transfer to and from hotel, lunch, water and a coke. Of course, this price I got after bargain in Hurghada’s district of Al-Dahar, far away from the rich hotels. I can recommend a small hut on the public local beach between Al-Dahar and Sigal – attractive prices are listed - cruise (9-16) to 3 nearby islands with swimming and snorkeling, beverages and lunch, for 80 E (10.5 €).

town	site	price in E	€/ pp	duration	note	comments
Aswan, sailing on the Nile	felucca hire	80 E/ 2 persons	€5.3	2,5 h	ok
	Kitchener Island entry fee	10 E/ persons	€1.3	30 min	poor
	First Cataract additional sail	30 E/ 2 persons	€2.0	10 min	poor
Luxor	Valley of the Kings	40 E/ student	€5.3	4 h	super	entry fee for visiting 3 graves, normal fee 80 E
	Temple of Hatshepsut	15 E/ student	€2.0	1 h	super	normal fee 30 E
	Karnak complex	35 E/ student	€4.6	2 h	worth	normal fee 65 E
Cairo	Egyptian Museum entry fee	30 E/ student	€3.9	4 h	worth	normal fee 50 E
	Egyptian Museum Mummies Room	60 E/ student	€7.9	30 min	super	normal fee 100 E
Giza	Great Pyramids entry the site	30 E/ student	€3.9	5 h	super	normal fee 60 E
	Chephren Pyramid, entry inside the pyramid	15 E/ student	€2.0	15 min	worth	normal fee 30 E
Hurghada	Reef cruise	150 E/ person	€19.7	half day	worth	including 2 dives, hotel transfer, lunch, drinks
			€57.9

accommodation - all hotels listed below, which I found in Lonely Planet, were in good condition, clean, with sheets and hot water. All of them in walking distance from railway stations (in Hurghada from bus station). We took the cheapest rooms with a fun and share bathroom. Often in price was included small breakfast. Staff was nice everywhere but in Aswan and Luxor a bit pushy for the trips (they got commission). In bigger rooms they promised not to add more people, and there was free luggage storage after checkout at noon.

town	hotel and address	N	accommodation	price per night	€/ pp	note	comments
Aswan	Nubian Oasis Hotel, LP, 234 Sharia as-Souq	1	double room	35 E/ room	€2.3	6	roof terrace under construction; great view
Luxor	Oasis Hotel, LP, Sharia Mohammed Farid	1	4 persons room	20 E/ pers	€2.6	8	balcony, free internet, AC, roof terrace
Cairo	African Hostel, LP, 15 Sharia Emad ad-Din, centre	1	4 persons room	40 E/ pers	€5.2	8	balcony, free internet
Hurghada	Shakespears Hotel, LP, Sharia Sayyed al-Qorayem	2	double room	40 E/ room	€2.6	4	no breakfast and hot water, fan worked sometimes
	in transport	2
		7			€15.3 (5)

transport - from the airport in Hurghada you can get to the city by taxi for 20 E for the course (2.5 €). We walked 15 minutes to the main road and caught the local minibus to Al-Dahar district (long distance bus station). I overpaid 7 E for 2 persons, but now I know that local rides usually cost between 0.50 and 1 E.

We traveled mainly with bus company called Upper Egypt Travel. When you buy a ticket in Cairo, Luxor or Aswan there is rather no problems with space, although they often sell tickets only on the day of travel (same in trains). In the coach can not be more than 4 or 6 foreigners. Buses between the North and South of the country are going without the convoy, but only via Hurghada. One day in Hurghada we had a lot of problems to embark to the bus as they came full. It seems however that was unhappy day, on the other days the bus station didn’t look so busy. Direct connection to Aswan (via Luxor) was at 22:30 and 0:30, only to Luksor at 19:00 and 7:00. Plenty buses to Cairo, where you can get via Suez.

Public ferries through the Nile in Aswan or Luxor cost 1 E. Similarly, the urban minibuses from 0.50 to 1 E.

Trains - runs along the Nile from Alexandria to Aswan. Student ISIC card do not apply for any discount anymore. The route Aswan - Luxor you can travel in second class, but continuing to Cairo can be done only in first class (foreigners). Trains depart at morning and afternoon (15:00 and 16:00) and come to   Luxor at evening and to capital next morning. Luxor - Cairo first class costs 165 E (22 €). Buses are cheaper, from 100 E (13 €). Train Aswan - Luxor costs 31 E (buy a ticket on the train, not in the ticket office), bus is cheaper, for 20 E, but bus stations in those cities are located far from the city, so you must also add time and cost to get there.

How to visit the Western Thebes? You can take a trip from the hotel (130 E, € 17), hire a taxi for the entire day or parts, and visit by bicycle or on foot. I will present my mixed variant, because it is low cost and interesting. From Luxor we took local ferry to the other side of the Nile (1 E), on its west bank. Here we hired a taxi to the Valley of the Kings for 20 E (2.6 €). You can also take local minibuses going to Qurna, or even better near the Carter house. From the junction close to the Carter house (he discovered the Tutankhamun tomb) there is no public transport, but taxi shouldn’t be more than 5 E, or go on foot 3-4 km in lovely gorge. After visiting the Valley of the Kings I recommend hiking to the Temple of Hatshepsut (Deir el-Bahari) and then to Colossi of Memnon (details described in the “highlights”). From here run public transport to ferry. After returning to the Eastern Thebes you can go to Karnak by minibus (1 E) from the north end of the Luxor Temple.

From Central Cairo to the pyramids you can get by city bus. No. 355 and 357 runs the closest to the monuments, a ticket costs just 2 E purchased from the driver. Bus stop is located near the Egyptian Museum, behind 6th October Bridge, unfortunately poorly described by Lonely Planet. It is on the road island in the middle of the turn, without local help I wouldn’t find it, and you need to be able to read their numbers to stop the appropriate bus. After Pyramids we wanted go to Sakkara, but locals weren’t able to identify our minibus, so we changed plans and went to see the mosques. Bus station in Cairo is at the heart of the city (Cairo Gateway), close to the Ramses train station.

To the airport in Hurghada we would go by public minibuses, but at 4 am it was a problem. So we caught taxi on the street and negociated the price. Taxis entering the airport must pay a small fee and my driver wanted gets additional 5 E for the course. I ignored him, but again, people which works with tourists aren’t operating honestly.

day	destination	transport	price in E	€/ pp	duration	km
1	airport - Hurghada Al-Dahar	walk + minibus	0 + 7 E/ 2per	€0.5	2x 15 min	1,5 + 10
1	Hurghada - Aswan	night bus	50 E	€6.6	8 h	485
3	Aswan - Luxor	train II class	31 E	€4.1	3 h	209
4	Luxor West Bank - Kings Valley	taxi	20 E/ 2per	€1.3	15 min	10
4	Kings Valley - Luxor West Bank	walk + minibus	0 + 3 E/ 2per	€0.2	2h + 10 min	4 + 3
4	Luxor - Karnak - Luxor	2x minibus	2x 1 E	2x €0.1	2x 10min	2x 3
4	Luxor - Cairo	night bus	100 E	€13.1	13 h	826
6	Cairo - Giza Pyramids + return	2x bus nr 355 or 357	2x 2 E	2x €0.2	2x 45 min	2x 13
6	Egyptian Museum - Al-Azhar mosque	taxi	10 E/ 2per	€0.6	10 min	4
6	Cairo - Hurghada	night bus	66 E	€8.7	8 h	550
7	Hurghada - airport	taxi	20 E/ 2per	€1.3	15 min	10
				€37.0		2144