Melbourne has always competed with Sydney for dominance in Australia. When I meet people from Melbourne, they usually do not like Sydney too much and vice versa. Because both cities are great I think I found a correlation - tourists usually like more the first visited city. It's harder to like the second visited city in the same way, since the first discovery of the Australian way of life is already associated with the first place.
The same thing happened to me. I love Sydney, I like Melbourne. I agree with the opinion that the Melbourne architecture is more European, where feels the Italians and Greeks impact (Melbourne is the second largest Greek city, the bigger one is Athens only). Stylish trams add a European-style. Here are hold Australian Open tennis tournament (January), horse racing Melbourne Cup (the first Tuesday in November), and nearby, Formula 1 (March).
Nevertheless, Melbourne is too cold and too windy for me. There aren’t nice beaches or coastal cliffs with walking tracks. St Kilda district is even enjoyable, but bath in the sea with industrial harbour view is not in my type. In the centre runners are not allowed in the botanical garden, they must running along the busy road. However, the city centre is interesting, especially breathtaking view from TV tower with glass floor and the night skyscrapers view is also impressive.
When flying to Melbourne, remember that there are two airports. Tullamarine is the main one, closer to the city centre with Sky Bus shuttle connection (20 min, 16 AUD) 24/7. While flying at Avalon airport, remember that it is nearly an hour drive from the centre (transfer to Southern Cross Station 20 AUD).
There is Phillip Island just 1.5 hour drive south. If you do not have a car, there are organized day trips (90 AUD) from Melbourne. Every evening after sunset penguins are walking ashore. Penguin Parade performance is incredible, when hundreds of these tiny creatures (Little Penguin is the smallest of the species, reaching up to 35 cm in height) gathering in groups and walk from the sea to the beach. They do it only after sunset, because the birds are not hunting while dark. Then from the beach penguins are marching up to 2 kilometres in order to find its burrow, where often hungry cub is waiting for them. Tourists sit on a specially constructed platform, from where you can watch the sea and lighted beach.
Main platform has a good view of the sea, but it is a bit far (binoculars might be useful), costs 21 AUD. But if you want to be closer to these little creatures, there is a version of Penguin Plus with maximum 40 people, costs 41 AUD. I don’t regret I took that option, although this is not a necessary extra expense, because later everyone could be on wooden boardwalks and look at the marching penguins along the stage one meter apart. The advantage of a more expensive option is simply less crowd and closer observing platform when the penguins come out from the water. There are even more expensive tickets for special private guided tour. Anyway, while on boardwalks you can see burrows in the sand and often little one squealing and waiting for parents. Cub doesn’t recognize their guardians, so it was very funny to see how little ones run up to each adult, and when the parent could recognize by voice that it isn’t its child, kick it away by nozzle - great view! Besides, we were also fortunate to see penguin dating on the way home.
During the day, before the sunset, I took Eco Tour (10 AUD), where for an hour I was listening details from penguins life. On that tour we were only three tourists, so I was asking a lot of questions to which the ranger replied with passion.
This is a government’s organization and I could see that the money from the tourists goes to protect these penguins. There are people working with passion, where animal is more important than customer, after two hours show people are asked to go away and light are off, that allows the penguins to live in peace. Filming and photography are prohibited.
At Phillip Island there is also a koala park and Churchill Island with heritage farm. In March Formula One is held here.
In Ballarat Sovereign Hill was built, it’s a replica of the mid-nineteenth century gold rush town. Apparently one of the best of this type. There are playing dressed actors walking between the old wooden buildings. You can also try to find some gold in old method. Admission costs 42 AUD, and the evening light and sound show for 50 AUD.
The most popular attraction in Victoria is the panoramic route called the Great Ocean Road .
It's a winding 243-km road between Torquay and Warrnambool, almost all over the cliff coast, where waves carved formations of all sorts. It can be driven by car, hitch-hike, by bike, you can also walk some parts, or fly by helicopter (price from 75 AUD per person).
From Melbourne day tours are organized, prices from 75 AUD. I think one day is a little too short, two days would be better. You can also combine a two-day tour included Great Ocean Road and Penguins Parade (from 150 AUD included admission fee and dormitory bed). Or if you don’t want to return to the starting point, go for a minimum 2 day/1 night trip organized from Melbourne to Adelaide (or vice versa), visiting Great Ocean Road along the way only (the price of 250 AUD), or 3 day/2 night (from 395 AUD) and see the Grampians. I and Ewelina travelled Great Ocean Road by hitchhiking, sleeping in tent along the way. A few years later when my mother visited me, I rented a car (a much better option than an organized trip).
However, the most interesting part of this road is between Petersborough and Lorne. For me, the most spectacular lookouts are (from west to east): The Spit, The Grotto (walk downstairs), London Bridge and The Arch and go for night to the campsite in Port Campbell. The next day visit Loch Ard Gorge (take a walk around) and The Twelve Apostles (the most popular).
Then we got to touristy Apollo Bay, from where we went again on the beautiful road next to the ocean. I recommend stopping at Kennett River. Turn from the main road and immediately turn left into unpaved Grey River Road. Drive a few kilometres uphill, stop the engine and walk a bit. Look at the trees tops searching for koalas. There are a lot of them there, but initially we will have problems to spot them. When you gain some experience, you will be able to see them in their natural environment. Most of them sleep, but not all. I've seen koala’s eating, walking, falling, jumping. Great fun.
And for someone who has not seen a kangaroo yet, they can be easily found on the golf course in Anglesea town.
I started from Petersborough three hours before the dusk, and finished the Great Ocean Road at Kennett River, from where I quickly drove to watch the penguins at sunset on Phillip Island. It was fairly quickly, without relaxation (1.5 day sightseeing + 2 nights driving from Sydney).
For lovers of active life, and especially for hikers and rock climbers, I recommend to go to the Grampians. That is mountain range in central-western part of the state.
Similar conditions of activity can be found in The High Country, on the border with New South Wales. Here there are also opportunities for white water rafting, fishing, paragliding, horse riding and skiing in the winter (or snowboarding). For winter sports huge Alpine park seems to be the most suitable.